What all is needed to make this work safely?? 630 car 104 mph all eighth mile racing

I had this exact set up on my camaro. I could not stop hardly at all. now I may could have changed the master cylinder and made it better but I decided to go with the aerospace rear disc and change MC and now can drag the front bumper. others can probably help with what to do and I am interested as well.

ep-sorry this is of no help. just found it interesting that I ran the same deal. I could dump somebody off and pass them in the process.

any help

Your question isn’t clear but possibly a different master cylinder and a adjustable proportioning valve.

Ed ive missed you. lol. I got wheel drum brakes on my car. I want to install aerospace front disc brakes up front and keep the factory drum brakes on the rear. trying to make this work safely. Aerospace tells me im going to crash if i do this. But i know its been done safely many many times.

The fact that aerospace is telling you that you will crash by doing this should be more than enough to keep you from buying their brakes.

The Big 3 did it for decades and many racers did this conversion on their muscle cars including me but I didn’t and wouldn’t use their brakes nor do I know anyone that does.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

i havent had any problems till recently. May just need to put new shoes and drums all they around. had a problem with the cars stage on the footbrake

If your brakes have worked for you until recently, save your $ and inspect what you have. May need a new master depending on your issue or new shoes. If that’s the case, put new good non metallic riveted shoes on, turn the drums down and flush all the old brake fluid out and refill the system.

sound like a plan. thanks

If you buy shoes, buy two sets of shoes for the rear brakes and only use the secondary shoes/longer shoes on each side.

good tip

like ED said you will need the adjustable proportion valve you likly have to much rear brake had to go this route on 69 nova would lock and slide rear tires until taking away some of the rear brake pressure

Tee I did this with willwood fronts you will have to change the master to one thats for factory disc front and drum rear also put an adjustable proportion valve in rear line and remove the factory proportioning valve. Or just do what Ed said Good Luck

Tee, I don't know what car you have but mine is a Ford, mustang 2 front end. I put Aerospace 2 piston calipers on it a few years back and for many reasons, the car sits. It's been on the track exactly 4 times in 8 years. I still maintain it as if it were used more often, mostly out of habit, including flushing the brake fluid. I have had nothing but trouble out of the aerospace brakes. Twice now, the calipers will bind (drag), car has not been used at all this year but I dug it out of the trailer and was in the process of getting it ready to run it this fall when I noticed that I couldn't push it. On the lift, can barely turn the left front wheel by hand. Removed/disassembled caliper found nothing out of the ordinary, called Aerospace and they said it's caused by misalignment. LOL. Funny how that works. New calipers (from aerospace) Spring of 2019, car sat all year and all this year aside from reg maintenance (trailer to shop, about 30 foot), and the caliper decides to go haywire. That's it, I'm done with aerospace. Talked with their tech, they were real short. I asked the question they replied with "misalignment"-and not another word. Misalignment of what? And again this is the second time. Won't happen again either, probably pull all that stuff off and go with wilwood.

If you have drums, they should hold great. Drums typically hold better at the line than discs do since they are sort of self-energizing in design.

One thing I'm noticing lately is that the parts store cheap brake drums and rotors are garbage. Had a set of brand new rotors on my truck that just did not feel right from the get-go. Replaced with OE motorcraft, 100x better. My DD Mustang--4 wheel disc, all of the rotors were from the parts store. Junk. Rust immediately, feels like the master cylinder is too big (just feels like they're all glazed, does not stop well at all). Grabbed a pair of front OE Motorcraft rotors from ebay and threw those on and it's back to normal. Just thought I'd throw that out there, now you might not have much choice with your car but to use aftermarket-just choose wisely if you do have a choice.

My 69 Chevelle (which I raced 1/4 mile, 115mph at the stripe) had factory drums on all 4 wheels. I just went to a stock GM front disc set-up, with stock GM calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder and booster. It works great. There are kits out there to inexpensively convert your car to front discs using OEM parts. Why fool with that aftermarket crap?

The factory GM disk front setup is great. You will have to change the m/c to one that has the large front reservoir and small rear. I have a Camaro that came with this setup. Brakes work great.

Beware of all the aftermarket GM made in China copies out there. A lot of it is junk and will not work right. Been there, done that. I'd be sourcing the brackets from a donor car.

Going to the GM setup will also require a spindle change so it is probably the same price to use an aftermarket race brake setup that will bolt up to the drum spindles. You want vented rotors. Again, will have to change the M/C as above.

I'm not liking the "you will crash" statement. I hope they told you what would work and didn't just say that.

Front disk and rear drum is a good setup and should work fine if you match up the right parts.

What ever you do, do not try to use "El Dorado" rear disk setup. I can't stress this enough.

I done that very upgrade to my 68 Camaro that had drum brakes on the front. With all gm parts off a friends car that went aftermarket. You do NOT have to change spindles. I just bolted the caliper bracket on the spindle with the bottom bolt and spun the bracket up to the mounting pad. Then you can see how much to cut some material off the top mounting hole pad.

I used all factory parts from a 71 Nova. Rotors, calipers. Brackets and hoses. Then I used a master cylinder that was made for disc/drum combo.

I hope I explained it well enough.