BTE Billet valve body

July 14, 2021, 09:15 AM

329L

quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I worked on my Coan Aluminum VB last night for a while. Trans is on the floor so it's easy...

Installed in trans with enclosed solenoid also installed. Energize solenoid and it drives the steel valve into the VB so hard it sticks.

Exactly what happened the first time I ran the car earlier this year. Fluid pressure and some warmth eventually free-ed it up and it never stuck again at any race I went to.

I certainly should have sent it back to Coan but feel like I can fix it myself and will.

I bought it in Dec. 2020

I agree with Brandon on the cycles being very low in what we do and wear probably not being an issue.

I will get it to work without sticking or binding and it will be in my spare trans for now.

My FTI did that exact thing when I changed the solenoid once, you need to shim the solenoid back with some gaskets, I think I ended up with 4 or 5 gaskets to get it to stop going in to far

^^^THIS. Transmission Specialties puts a .100 thick nylon washer between solenoid and case to keep this from happening. The black paper gasket normally used is .015 thick, and can be stacked if needed. If you can get the red ones, they are .030 thick.

July 14, 2021, 09:19 AM

Brandon@BTE

Many different combinations between aftermarket cases and VBs require a visual indexing of the brake valve. All OEM stuff usually lines out ok, but since there isn't much of that stuff left...

July 14, 2021, 09:22 AM

329L

quote:
Originally posted by Brandon@BTE:
Many different combinations between aftermarket cases and VBs require a visual indexing of the brake valve. All OEM stuff usually lines out ok, but since there isn't much of that stuff left...

Do you see any issues with cutting (shortening) the valve to correct this issue? For my customers i have been just using washers, and it works without issues. My only fear is that a guy would have to take the solenoid off for whatever reason and lose some of the gaskets and causing an issue. What we also found out, if you dont shim them, reactions will be very slow and all over the place, and if ran long enough it bends the valve.

July 14, 2021, 09:26 AM

Brandon@BTE

We have shortened them, but generally prefer to use washers. ATI has an orange washer (forget thickness) that allows us to use at max 2 or 3 to get the correct distance. Solenoid apply strength is also affected by the valve position, and when getting hot, weakness can occur if the valve is kicked out too far.

July 14, 2021, 09:52 AM

SCDIV1

quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:

My FTI did that exact thing when I changed the solenoid once, you need to shim the solenoid back with some gaskets, I think I ended up with 4 or 5 gaskets to get it to stop going in to far

Yes I am going to do exactly that.....

Shimming the solenoid back and testing it to make sure the brake holds is/was a little thing that can be done and it might speed up the vehicle RT...

I am going to do that on the trans in my car also...

This thread has turned into a good one.....Good info from various sources.

It's the little stuff that causes big problems.....!!!

July 14, 2021, 10:07 AM

329L

quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:

My FTI did that exact thing when I changed the solenoid once, you need to shim the solenoid back with some gaskets, I think I ended up with 4 or 5 gaskets to get it to stop going in to far

Yes I am going to do exactly that.....

Shimming the solenoid back and testing it to make sure the brake holds is/was a little thing that can be done and it might speed up the vehicle RT...

I am going to do that on the trans in my car also...

This thread has turned into a good one.....Good info from various sources.

It's the little stuff that causes big problems.....!!!

agree, its nice when these threads dont turn into a sheet show....LOL

July 14, 2021, 03:48 PM

Big Steve

quote:
Originally posted by Brandon@BTE:
Many different combinations between aftermarket cases and VBs require a visual indexing of the brake valve. All OEM stuff usually lines out ok, but since there isn't much of that stuff left...

By visually indexing the brake apply valve, how would you know you have the solenoid shimmed to far back which would cause the reverse clutches not to be applied and car rocking forward?

July 14, 2021, 04:06 PM

topd1332

quote:
Originally posted by 329L:
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I worked on my Coan Aluminum VB last night for a while. Trans is on the floor so it's easy...

Installed in trans with enclosed solenoid also installed. Energize solenoid and it drives the steel valve into the VB so hard it sticks.

Exactly what happened the first time I ran the car earlier this year. Fluid pressure and some warmth eventually free-ed it up and it never stuck again at any race I went to.

I certainly should have sent it back to Coan but feel like I can fix it myself and will.

I bought it in Dec. 2020

I agree with Brandon on the cycles being very low in what we do and wear probably not being an issue.

I will get it to work without sticking or binding and it will be in my spare trans for now.

My FTI did that exact thing when I changed the solenoid once, you need to shim the solenoid back with some gaskets, I think I ended up with 4 or 5 gaskets to get it to stop going in to far

^^^THIS. Transmission Specialties puts a .100 thick nylon washer between solenoid and case to keep this from happening. The black paper gasket normally used is .015 thick, and can be stacked if needed. If you can get the red ones, they are .030 thick.

can i send this BTE one i have back it hasnt made 1 pass and doesnt work

July 14, 2021, 04:39 PM

joey d

rich call me ill tell u how to fix the coan have loads of aluminum v/body out there of everybodys

July 14, 2021, 06:47 PM

SCDIV1

I will do that Joe. I can get your number from someone you do their transmissions and she says you’re the best !

I know you know what works for sure!

July 26, 2021, 06:26 PM

M802138

yeah oe cores are harder to find/get. BUT along with that, the problem is shipping them. The cost of shipping them almost offsets anything you might sell them for. At one time I had almost 40 of them, just junk as far as I was concerned and I was going to scrap them. I gave them to FTI but ended up losing a little on shipping. Almost all of the glide core parts are getting harder to find but again, those that buy and refurbish them can't pay anything for them to speak of. If they gave $10 for a OE valve body and had to spend $25 to have it shipped to them, that's money that has to be added to the other end when it's ready to be resold, and considering that competition is out there for them, they gotta be kind of careful with that.

I have never had luck with aluminum valve bodies in powerglides. Ever. Went back to cast iron and haven't really had no issues other than being heavy and ugly. Who cares. This is bracket racing isn't it?

July 26, 2021, 06:45 PM

Mike Rietow

quote:
Originally posted by M802138:
yeah oe cores are harder to find/get. BUT along with that, the problem is shipping them. The cost of shipping them almost offsets anything you might sell them for. At one time I had almost 40 of them, just junk as far as I was concerned and I was going to scrap them. I gave them to FTI but ended up losing a little on shipping. Almost all of the glide core parts are getting harder to find but again, those that buy and refurbish them can't pay anything for them to speak of. If they gave $10 for a OE valve body and had to spend $25 to have it shipped to them, that's money that has to be added to the other end when it's ready to be resold, and considering that competition is out there for them, they gotta be kind of careful with that.

I have never had luck with aluminum valve bodies in powerglides. Ever. Went back to cast iron and haven't really had no issues other than being heavy and ugly. Who cares. This is bracket racing isn't it?

All very True. I've given a bunch to Richard Godley over the years.

Ultimately this will go one of two ways, actually three.

Eventually the manufacturers with perfect cnc aluminum VB's or two, buying a new VB every fill in the blank number of runs, will become standard maintenance.

Or three, every now and then someone will call for a cast VB core and be more than happy to give ya $100.00, to have race prepped. I can get Richard or JW to do up a cast VB, Super Pro I'll bet.

I've got a couple pretty nice cast iron VB's, I wouldn't sell for any amount. Coan slow and JW fast brake.

Don't toss em, if ya got em. Ya might be able to help someone down the line.