Anyone using one?

yep

Make sure to check solenoid to valve engagement. IF the plunger on the solenoid does not go all the way in, but the valve is, the solenoid will need to be shimmed out with gaskets until the plunger on back of solenoid seats to the body. If not, it will wear out the solenoid really fast. To check this, push the plunger in with your hand, and see if there is a gap. Stock modulator gaskets are ususally .015 thick, i have had to stack 5-6 of them to get the solenoid to close up.

Is the BTE all aluminum or is the port where the T/B valve slides in sleeved with steel ?

Why do I ask....

Because my Coan aluminum VB is all aluminum and was too tight right out of the box last winter....

I spent time on it and it was sticking in the bore even after I honed the hole and sanded the valve.

I just removed it and worked on it again to get it working as it should....and swapped back to an iron VB from a spare trans....and put the Coan in the spare....

I should have sent the Coan back last winter.....

Not sold on aluminum without a steel liner in there.....

I had a similar issue as SCDIV1 with a early FTI Billet valve body. It worked great at first then after time it got really inconsistent, the steel TB apply valve had wore the aluminum bore in the VB causing it to stick. If you are looking to save weight the aluminum VB is great but unless they have steel sleeves in the bores of the steel valves you may possibly have some consistency issues in the log run. I went back to a cast iron VB, the 9lbs savings wasn't worth the trouble

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I had a similar issue as SCDIV1 with a early FTI Billet valve body. It worked great at first then after time it got really inconsistent, the steel TB apply valve had wore the aluminum bore in the VB causing it to stick. If you are looking to save weight the aluminum VB is great but unless they have steel sleeves in the bores of the steel valves you may possibly have some consistency issues in the log run. I went back to a cast iron VB, the 9lbs savings wasn't worth the trouble

I knew it could not be just me !!

What a waste of $$ that purchase was for me....Did not speed up Vehicle RT's and when I went to the track for the first time and backed out of trailer the valve was stuck and car would not move forward.....

Once it warmed up and free'ed up it was ok and has worked decent since.....but I don't trust it....

I did have one race RT's were good earlier this year

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I had a similar issue as SCDIV1 with a early FTI Billet valve body. It worked great at first then after time it got really inconsistent, the steel TB apply valve had wore the aluminum bore in the VB causing it to stick. If you are looking to save weight the aluminum VB is great but unless they have steel sleeves in the bores of the steel valves you may possibly have some consistency issues in the log run. I went back to a cast iron VB, the 9lbs savings wasn't worth the trouble

I knew it could not be just me !!

What a waste of $$ that purchase was for me....Did not speed up Vehicle RT's and when I went to the track for the first time and backed out of trailer the valve was stuck and car would not move forward.....

Once it warmed up and free'ed up it was ok and has worked decent since.....but I don't trust it....

I did have one race RT's were good earlier this year

Since you have it, why not have it sleeved? Should be a very simple op.

We have not had that issue with the trans specialties billet aluminum valvebody. I have 2.5 seasons on mine right now, and customers with 3-4 and have not had that issue, and they do not use the steel sleeve either.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I had a similar issue as SCDIV1 with a early FTI Billet valve body. It worked great at first then after time it got really inconsistent, the steel TB apply valve had wore the aluminum bore in the VB causing it to stick. If you are looking to save weight the aluminum VB is great but unless they have steel sleeves in the bores of the steel valves you may possibly have some consistency issues in the log run. I went back to a cast iron VB, the 9lbs savings wasn't worth the trouble

I knew it could not be just me !!

What a waste of $$ that purchase was for me....Did not speed up Vehicle RT's and when I went to the track for the first time and backed out of trailer the valve was stuck and car would not move forward.....

Once it warmed up and free'ed up it was ok and has worked decent since.....but I don't trust it....

I did have one race RT's were good earlier this year

Since you have it, why not have it sleeved? Should be a very simple op.

Yes I thought of doing exactly that......

Not so easy though without a decently equipped machine shop at your disposal...

Fixture the VB and enlarge the hole and make a sleeve that replicates the existing hole....

A valve guide or a piece of steel tubing would work....

That will go down on my I guarantee I'm never gonna do that list.....LOL !

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
We have not had that issue with the trans specialties billet aluminum valvebody. I have 2.5 seasons on mine right now, and customers with 3-4 and have not had that issue, and they do not use the steel sleeve either.

I looked at all the Aluminum VB's and was going to buy the ATD (Hipster)

Saw the Coan info on their unit and the fact a well known trans builder on the west coast was using them and ended up buying the Coan

Taking it out of the box the spool valve would not go into the VB cleanly/easily......I called them and told them of the issue and said I was comfortable with fitting it myself....

I used a valve guide hone in the bore but the hone stone cannot make it all the way in the hole..

A little more work on the valve itself and it's now fine....

For nearly $700 you would not expect to have to work on it.....Silly me....!

That was last winter.....maybe February...

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
We have not had that issue with the trans specialties billet aluminum valvebody. I have 2.5 seasons on mine right now, and customers with 3-4 and have not had that issue, and they do not use the steel sleeve either.

I looked at all the Aluminum VB's and was going to buy the ATD (Hipster)

Saw the Coan info on their unit and the fact a well known trans builder on the west coast was using them and ended up buying the Coan

Taking it out of the box the spool valve would not go into the VB cleanly/easily......I called them and told them of the issue and said I was comfortable with fitting it myself....

I used a valve guide hone in the bore but the hone stone cannot make it all the way in the hole..

A little more work on the valve itself and it's now fine....

For nearly $700 you would not expect to have to work on it.....Silly me....!

That was last winter.....maybe February...

All i can say to that is, "man made parts, post covid". It doesnt seem like anything out there is as good of quality as it was pre covid.

I had one of the earlier BTE billet valve bodys and the trans brake would work on it. It now sits in a box trying to decide to send it back or just trash it.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I had a similar issue as SCDIV1 with a early FTI Billet valve body. It worked great at first then after time it got really inconsistent, the steel TB apply valve had wore the aluminum bore in the VB causing it to stick. If you are looking to save weight the aluminum VB is great but unless they have steel sleeves in the bores of the steel valves you may possibly have some consistency issues in the log run. I went back to a cast iron VB, the 9lbs savings wasn't worth the trouble

I knew it could not be just me !!

What a waste of $$ that purchase was for me....Did not speed up Vehicle RT's and when I went to the track for the first time and backed out of trailer the valve was stuck and car would not move forward.....

Once it warmed up and free'ed up it was ok and has worked decent since.....but I don't trust it....

I did have one race RT's were good earlier this year

Since you have it, why not have it sleeved? Should be a very simple op.

Yes I thought of doing exactly that......

Not so easy though without a decently equipped machine shop at your disposal...

Fixture the VB and enlarge the hole and make a sleeve that replicates the existing hole....

A valve guide or a piece of steel tubing would work....

That will go down on my I guarantee I'm never gonna do that list.....LOL !

Yeah, having a few million dollars worth of machinery at you fingertips does make a difference. I should have made it clear though I meant have a shop do it.

Some things that seem easy to me like that is similar to you and generators. It's what I do. LOL

They're running out of cast iron valve body cores. If you sell a transmission, keep your old trusted and True cast iron VB.

I have 20 virgin cast iron VB cores I've been sitting on.

I'm sure Godley or JW will do em up.

Same with rooster combs, hold onto your factory GM comb (shift lever mechanism). They're fool proof.

Curtis I have some machines but limited tooling/fixturing....Bridgeport, lathe

It is a simple operation as you said with the right equipment

The VB was made on a CNC machine I believe since it has billet halves....and no one checked the fit of the spool valve to bore ....

The bore was a little sharp edged and there was no way the valve would go in there and not get stuck, right out of the box....

I have heard people say the aluminum will wear over time....

It won't wear at all bolted inside my spare trans sitting in my trailer.....LOL

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Is the BTE all aluminum or is the port where the T/B valve slides in sleeved with steel ?

Rich, no steel sleeve.

That said, we have 172 passes on this trans/valve body without issue and Kyle's average light is quicker and his grouping tighter in the Firebird compared to the Abruzzi trans in the dragster with a cast iron valve body.

Some manufacturers.
Regulator is a stainless valve in a stainless body as a cartridge.

I don't think that the variation of release time (repeatability) would be related to material in any way. There may be other factors however I would not think material is one.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
I don't think that the variation of release time (repeatability) would be related to material in any way. There may be other factors however I would not think material is one.

The coefficient of friction of each material, the different reaction to heat and oil retention properties could have an affect I would think. Maybe I am over thinking it.



Rich, you are correct. Sitting in the spare in the trailer it will never wear out. hahaha

I have a Hipster Alum. valve body an early one that was cast. No problem using it at all. Too fast of release for the car (when I bottom bulbed it) so out it came. Last year I got it out and called Hipster and asked about the new billet ones. The guy tole me that the older cast ones had to be hand cleaned up (deburred etc.) and some times they would have porosity cause of the casting and would fail the test. Throw away. The present cnc valve bodies have no problems that way so no wasted units. Those with race-packs can do a release time data with such. Remember when doing back to back test consistant trans temp. is a must. I have an opnion that 6061 cnc alum. is not going to wear very fast with a smooth valve and should last a long time. If you have an alum. valvebody and you think you are having trouble time it. Measure the time fron the release of the solenoid to the pressure drop at the reverse piston port. Say from full applied pressure down to 20 lbs (pressure switch) as this is the release pressure drop timed from the removal of 12v to a target pressure letting the clutches just about completly release. This should be the same or darn close .001-.002.