I'm think'n Toms 9.5 4.29 gear.

This is a broken 9" ring, motive/Richmond pro 35 4.10

I'd do a 10' ring but this is a pre-2015 Strange N1912 Ultra, it doesn't have the revision.

All gears are junk now….put it back like it is an SEND IT…

I’ve been thru the broken gear blues hear lately….all the manufacturers are only recommending at least 85-140….I see a lot of people running less….I’m a new believer in thicker oil preferably TORCO…

quote:

Originally posted by WHOMPWHOMP:
I’ve been thru the broken gear blues hear lately….all the manufacturers are only recommending at least 85-140….I see a lot of people running less….I’m a new believer in thicker oil preferably TORCO…

quote:

Originally posted by WHOMPWHOMP:
All gears are junk now….put it back like it is an SEND IT…

We're gonna find out by shelling out the extra $75-100.00 bucks, to put the best available in it. I'd like to do a Tom's US 9.5 gear 4.29.

I need the standard housing dimension as well, if anyone knows it for a Strange N1912. Gonna do the math both from the standard housing dimension and the recommended pinion depth number on the new pinion.

So we're gonna go the extra mile on setup and shell out the extra dough for the good chit.

This approach usually pays off long run, for all aspects mechanically.

9" gear in every car...some last some don't. Torco oil is indeed better as we wipe em out quicker with anything else.

Innovators West out of Salina Kansas...send him a brand new MW center section complete, he remachines and re bearings the center sections components, you wont be disappointed!!

Lasts the longest and I can push that specific car with it with my pinky.

MW Pro Stock 3rd member with aluminum spool in both my dragster and Firebird, both rebuilt with new Richmond R&P 3 seasons ago after north of 700 passes each. Both have 400-500 passes now, bathe in 2 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear oil which is all I have used for over 30 years in my race cars starting with my Chevelle’s 12 bolt posi rear.

This has been on it's way out for quite some time I can see by looking at it. Lots of friction, oil baked BLACK!

If I had a 4.5X dragster, instead of taking the approach all gear sets are junk-some last some don't. I'd make 10-15 maybe 20 rips after new, and re-establish the back lash I installed on the build originally.

Seems like a lot of additional work right? But then again, what's changing broken gears? Additional money and work, right?

Mw center with 9.5” gear, alum and steel spools with Amsoil gear oil and have yet to see it break, knock on wood

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:
Mw center with 9.5” gear, alum and steel spools with Amsoil gear oil and have yet to see it break, knock on wood

That's what I wanna do with this if the gear is available. 9.5" 4.29 gear with the pattern starting just above toe, half way up drive and coast side.

15-20 rips in, re-establish the original backlash built in.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
15-20 rips in, re-establish the original backlash built in.

That’s what the clueless do that think they know.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
15-20 rips in, re-establish the original backlash built in.

That’s what the clueless do that think they know.

No, what the clueless do is what you do, break out your credit card.

Re-establishing backlash, if need be, is research and development.

There's no guarantee's with research and development.

There is the potential for learning though.

Learning is the name of the game.

Blown TD, MW center, 9.5 US gear, approx 100 runs, Car was set on kill, started spinning about 40 feet out, tried to drive thru it like I have in the past but went into violent tire shake instead. When I made the turn off the rear end was locked up. They will all break if you try hard enough lol

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
MW Pro Stock 3rd member with aluminum spool in both my dragster and Firebird, both rebuilt with new Richmond R&P 3 seasons ago after north of 700 passes each. Both have 400-500 passes now, bathe in 2 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear oil which is all I have used for over 30 years in my race cars starting with my Chevelle’s 12 bolt posi rear.

Yeah but not anymore I called MW and they agree they all junk TODAY…

Maybe but I just don't see an abundance of R&P breakage.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
MW Pro Stock 3rd member with aluminum spool in both my dragster and Firebird, both rebuilt with new Richmond R&P 3 seasons ago after north of 700 passes each. Both have 400-500 passes now, bathe in 2 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear oil which is all I have used for over 30 years in my race cars starting with my Chevelle’s 12 bolt posi rear.

X2 exactly what I have in mine, been in there since 2016 so far so good.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Blown TD, MW center, 9.5 US gear, approx 100 runs, Car was set on kill, started spinning about 40 feet out, tried to drive thru it like I have in the past but went into violent tire shake instead. When I made the turn off the rear end was locked up. They will all break if you try hard enough lol

Sold, this is a 9" Motive / Richmond F990411.

Be stepping up big time in durability 9.5" Tom's

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

“Tom’s”

Another that is clueless from your trailer park

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
“Tom’s”

Another that is clueless from your trailer park

Chew your finger nails and breast feed your driver, sugar britches.

Leave the work of drag racing to them men in the room.

A 450 car tears **** up. Especially if it is rattling and shaking the tires. My differential guy says if your making clean passes you will get lots of runs without damage.