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DRR Sportsman |
What you guys use? just bored and wondering. Post recommendations below. Michael Frizie ET 2471 | ||
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DRR S/Pro |
Std 6 point Grade 8 bolts with lock washers | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I use Flange Bolts | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Grade 8 bolts except the 2 at 10:00 and 2:00 which I install a little extra long studs to aid with installation...get the trans close and slide it up onto the studs.. . Dave F J B | |||
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DRR Pro |
I greatly respect Big Steve and know from experience that he builds high-quality race cars. However, I'm afraid I have to disagree with him. I rarely use lock washers [I do not like how they dig into the metal] As stated above, in my experience, the best options are a flanged head bolt or a standard bolt with a washer. Grade 5 is entirely acceptable. With an OE Powerglide case, the two lower bolts are slightly longer, so watch for full tread engagement in all positions. Larry Woodfin | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
guess odd man out. Like that new. I use studs.. IMO it makes lining everything up easier America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Wide, studs are fine except in door cars with the original floor, where clearance would not allow them to do so. Larry Woodfin | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
grade 8 flange bolts J.R. Baxter ""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen." 2024 Miller Rolla Competition Engines ProCharger Hoosier Tires Abruzzi | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Remember the length of the bolts? This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Frizie, Michael Frizie ET 2471 | |||
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DRR Pro |
1 1/2" iirc. I use the Tractor Supply grade 8 hex head, no washer or lock washer. O.E.M. never had a washer or flange on any transmission bolts, but I'm not at all opposed to the flange bolt idea. Longer block dowels work well for a guide in most door cars. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Black oxide flange bolts here. Tony Leonard | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I use grade 8 flanged bolts, then a high quality lock washer, then a flat washer with the rounded edge facing the transmission (so it doesn't damage the face of the transmission). This spreads the tension over a wider surface area. The transmission (the shear weight) doesn't rest on any part of the thread and no part of the threaded area enters the block. Aircraft/space craft assembly rules. Bob | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I guess I have been using the wrong bolts the past 30 years | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Flanged or not , anyone remember the bolt lengths? Michael Frizie ET 2471 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Grade 5 or greater flanged bolt would be correct for this application. I never use lock washer, To many times pulling old cars apart and seeing them broke in half. Loctite or poly lock nuts on race cars. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Well, thanks for that informative comment. Care to share your wrong choice with the rest of the class? "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Pro |
I could go measure one that I have been using I guess, but again, if I remember correctly, it's 1.5" "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Sorry, I’ll read one of these days. It was posted a while ago. Michael Frizie ET 2471 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
First reply in the thread Goob | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Is there really any right or wrong bolts? The dowels do all the heavy lifting/load bearing.....Sure I wouldn't use some cheap ass WangChang bolts but com'on people . Dave F J B | |||
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