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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Dead Hoosier stiff wall slick?Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Dead Hoosier stiff wall slick? | Login/Join |
| DRR Trophy |
3300# back half door car. 4-link. 950hp BBC. Powerglide leaving on a trans brake at 3400rpm. Running the 32x13.5W stiff wall Hoosier tires in 14” wheels at 10-10.5psi I don’t do a terribly aggressive burnout. When the car was working was 1.19-1.20 60’ and ran high 5.50s low 5.60s. The car stopped working consistently after 10-15 runs and has become pretty much worthless as of 25-30 runs. I’ve been all over the place with the 4-link and shocks and as of this past weekend, I cannot get the car to go down the track. Spins at the hit. I ran stiff wall MTs last year and got over 100 laps on them. Switched because I was tired of the tires going flat in the trailer or in the shop. Soaped the tires etc. Anyway, wondering if anyone with a similar ET car at a similar weight is experiencing similar performance out of the tire? Thinking about either going back to the 3074s tire or maybe trying one of the big pro bracket radials at this point. | ||
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| DRR S/Pro |
I've had great results with the MT 3074S, they hook well and they last. I also don't smoke the place up with burn outs, just clean them off and put a little heat in them. Leave at 4600 and enjoy the ride. Bob | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Maybe consider going slightly larger with the Hoosier 32.0/14.5-15 W. Fits a 14” rim. My experience with the 18245 / 18235, when you see smoke in the box it’s past time to go. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
One last thing that I do is to never allow the car to sit on the tires in the trailer for extended periods, (except when traveling) I jack the car up to take the weight off them, it just seemed logical. Sitting at low pressure can't be good for the tire structure. When I do tow I add air to the tires, or use a bladder for support. Bob | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
The last couple of sets of MT tires I did not soap them or anything and they have worked great. Not leaking air at all. I believe the MT tires are way better than Hoosiers. Your Hoosiers if I remember right the 13.5 and 14.5 wide tires are a very soft D05 compound and in Texas heat they get slimy. And they went away at cooler temperatures like below 55* especially when it was humid. But they were a pretty good tire in moderate temperatures. I would probably get a good video of the launch and watch to see. 1. That it is transferring weight to rear. 2. To verify that it is spinning. 3. To see if you have separation of the chassis. While I think MT tires are way better still think those Hoosiers should work good and may be an indication of other issue. Just the weak link (tires) shows it up easier. One other thing seems to me leaving at 3400 is way too low and may not be making chassis work right? As for trailering with door car or altered I do not do anything special but in the off season I always get the weight off the tires. With my Front Engine Dragster I had to use a bladder under the motor as those are long with no suspension and the chassis flex is a problem. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Maybe check out the Hoosier 32/13.5R15 Radial.. 18247 I've seen a few people try them and like them Nick Craig 1971 Camaro Split Bumper 376ci LS3 | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I have video of every run and review them frame by frame. You can see the wrinkle come out of the tire and then come back rotation by rotation of the tire. When the car works, it will carry the front end to the 60' cone. When it doesn't work, it will pull the front end off the ground 18" or so and then spin/shake with the front end in the air. It was hot and humid this weekend so maybe the D05 compound was getting gummy to your point. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
We run almost your exact set up, and just put 145 passes on those same tires. We took them off because we figured it was time. Car was still repeating. We leave at 5000 rpm. Also, we ran the radial tire that Nick mentioned above, and was also good, but would occasionally blow the tires off at the hit on crappy tracks. So we stitched back to the bias tire. Maybe It's suspension related (?) Mark Yeager | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
This would be my recommendation. I'm a long-time skinny radial guy but I've seen a couple cars go from 'pretty good' to 'incredible' after making this particular change. Tony Leonard | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
fyi, this OP post has been visited in 2025 prior HERE | |||
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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Dead Hoosier stiff wall slick?
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