DRR Pro
| I’ll have a comment to make about what you posted, but would like to ask three questions prior to this.
If needing to use the master disconnect switch to turn off the engine, when the master disconnect is turned back on can you re-start the engine with the ignition ON switch in the OFF position ?
What is everything that you have terminated to the ignition ON switch ?
Is this a 12v or 16 volt system ? |
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DRR Sportsman
| Which switch panel? Curious... 302-786-1078 slickvic@slickvicracing.com slickvic@slickvicracing.com www.slickvicracing.com302-786-1078 Dealer for most major brands, including Simpson, Necksgen, Hans, Strange, Moser, Amsoil, Aerospace, Digital Delay, Hoosier, M/T, Goodyear, Redhorse, MSD, Racepak, Lucas, and more. Complete racecar wiring and custom CNC parts available. |
| Posts: 131 | Location: Delaware | Registered: June 12, 2008 |
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DRR Pro
| tas472, because you were able to easily exchange Grid 7730 with another known good one and have the problem follow the bad box, it easily diagnosed the problem. Very nice. Also, having a DD switch box and relay board offers a dedicated ignition on circuit that isolates this signal to the ignition control which is a nice feature as well.
Here’s my comment that is not expressly directed to you, but to anyone reading this thread.
MSD Grid 7730 is the most powerful programmable ignition control offered at the retail price of $435. Discounted thru the web it can easily be had for just over $400. This is very inexpensive considering all the features it offers and free firmware and support in the future. Unlike analog ignition that needs multiple hardware to do something other than fire the ignition, Grid 7730 can do it all and offers a limited data acquisition system.
MSD Grid 7730 is a throw away if it every fails. This is because it’s so inexpensive to replace. The great part is that you can many times change it in less than 5 minutes, load your saved program and be back running in the event of a controller failure.
Both of my Grid 7730 are over 6 years old. They get cycled in and out of my car yearly so that I know I always have a good working spare. They have also been in others cars when trying to diagnose a problem. My car needs a programmable ignition to run properly. If one ever fails the replacement is miniscule compared to the many thousands of dollars of mechanical parts that have failed in my car during this same 6 year period.
If anyone can show me a programmable ignition controller that is better than MSD Grid 7730 with all the same features and support for the same retail price I’ll be the first to step up and say “I’ll take two”.
GO GRID 7730 !!! |
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DRR Pro
| quote: Originally posted by Brktracer: Sometimes other things tied to the ignition switch can cause this problem due to back feeding power. I had it happen once after installing an electric water pump drive that was wired to run continuously and also could be run through a manual toggle switch with the ignition switch off. The fix was as simple as a diode. It would be convenient if your fix is that simple but maybe it's not.
I had the same issue when I first installed an MSD. The generator light would backfeed and provide enough current to keep the engine running. My fix was also a diode (that MSD recommended). Take care. Tom Worthington
If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong.
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| Posts: 1274 | Location: Rocky Mount, NC | Registered: December 01, 1999 |
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DRR Sportsman
| The "cheap" data acquisition is worth it by itself, not to mention all the other stuff it can do. Helped me find a couple problems with my car I would have over looked. One was the alternator not keeping up with the load going down track. I had 14.2v at an idle but draining the battery on a run with everything on. Would drop to 10.2v on the shift.
72 Nova "Hooptie"
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| Posts: 782 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016 |
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DRR Pro
| If diode or resistor fixed the problem then to me that means MSD needs to build this into the unit so it is never a concern. This is a normal thing in the electronic world to have diodes or resistors on the inputs to pull the signal to ground. Scott |
| Posts: 1838 | Location: Illinois | Registered: August 20, 2000 |
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DRR Elite
| How do you build one in? I thought the idea was to diode the unwanted source
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
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DRR Pro
| quote: Originally posted by Bucky: How do you build one in? I thought the idea was to diode the unwanted source
Using a 2K ohm 1/4 watt resistor, attach one end to the ignition ON terminal wire of the Grid 7730 and the other end to ground. Attaching another device like a amp meter display to the same line might do the same as the resistor also. |
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DRR Pro
| quote: Originally posted by J Olejniczak: I have a hard time accepting the fact that a $400 item is not repairable. That would stop me from buying it. I have my Digital 7 ignition and full V300Sd racepak which covers my needs. I have repaired all kind of electronics my whole life and recently soldered in a new battery in my Fitbit watch that I was told was a throw away. Also repaired a K&R Delay box as well. The watch was $120 and still works great now. Seems like society just accepts this fact and we can change this by not buying their products and letting them know.
The boards are epoxied. That's why you can't repair them. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ |
| Posts: 561 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: January 16, 2011 |
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