maybe someone smarter than me will respond,but i suspect you would gain mph from the et gain by advancing 2deg

It's always been my understanding that "in general" moving the cam timing really only moves the TQ/HP curve one way or another, and advancing helps make power at lower RPM, retard helps high RPM output. ?
Being on small tires with a 3-speed, I can give up some low end, and would gladly trade a little 60' ET for a MPH or 2.

quote:

It's always been my understanding that "in general" moving the cam timing really only moves the TQ/HP curve one way or another, and advancing helps make power at lower RPM, retard helps high RPM output. ?
Being on small tires with a 3-speed, I can give up some low end, and would gladly trade a little 60' ET for a MPH or 2.

i also have heard those statements but have not found any mph esp in 1/8,the more hp/torque and efficiecy you can make the more mph will be.might be a good experiment

I've only been personally involved in 3 cam timing adjustments, all of which had no real effect.

A couple have been installed using retard to match the event timing on the card. I prefer to do that when I feel the cam is indeed the correct one.

I've advanced a "too large" cam to help street drivability once.

Last year I changed from a 5.3 LS engine to a 6.0 LS engine. I used the exact same heads, camshaft, and intake manifold. The 5.3 would flash the converter about 5600 on alky. With the 6.0, it flashed 5600 on pump gas. Once I switched the 6.0 to alky, the converter flashed about 5900. The only difference between a 5.3 and a 6.0 is the bore size, which is 3.780 and 4.000.

EDIT: To add, the truck ran a best of 6.86 with the 5.3. It ran a best of 6.60 with the 6.0 in the exact same configuration.

quote:

Originally posted by Jason Haley:
Last year I changed from a 5.3 LS engine to a 6.0 LS engine. I used the exact same heads, camshaft, and intake manifold. The 5.3 would flash the converter about 5600 on alky. With the 6.0, it flashed 5600 on pump gas. Once I switched the 6.0 to alky, the converter flashed about 5900. The only difference between a 5.3 and a 6.0 is the bore size, which is 3.780 and 4.000.

75 hp difference observed, meaning in nature - reality.

quote:

Originally posted by Jason Haley:
Last year I changed from a 5.3 LS engine to a 6.0 LS engine. I used the exact same heads, camshaft, and intake manifold. The 5.3 would flash the converter about 5600 on alky. With the 6.0, it flashed 5600 on pump gas. Once I switched the 6.0 to alky, the converter flashed about 5900. The only difference between a 5.3 and a 6.0 is the bore size, which is 3.780 and 4.000.

EDIT: To add, the truck ran a best of 6.86 with the 5.3. It ran a best of 6.60 with the 6.0 in the exact same configuration.

Alky is liquid compression boost, and cold intake charge.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by Jason Haley:
Last year I changed from a 5.3 LS engine to a 6.0 LS engine. I used the exact same heads, camshaft, and intake manifold. The 5.3 would flash the converter about 5600 on alky. With the 6.0, it flashed 5600 on pump gas. Once I switched the 6.0 to alky, the converter flashed about 5900. The only difference between a 5.3 and a 6.0 is the bore size, which is 3.780 and 4.000.

EDIT: To add, the truck ran a best of 6.86 with the 5.3. It ran a best of 6.60 with the 6.0 in the exact same configuration.

Alky is liquid compression boost, and cold intake charge.

Ya gotta read and comprehend what you're reading. Both his big and small engine, were on methanol.

Another way you can track your power through the converter stall.

Top image is a lap in 100 degree heat at Orlando.

The second image is from last week Orlando everyone was 7 hundredths to a tenth and half faster in excellent conditions.

It only picked 100 rpms of stall because I had more timing out to be slower than 6.39, in faster conditions.

100 rpms is 25hp.

quote:

The 5.3 would flash the converter about 5600 on alky. With the 6.0, it flashed 5600 on pump gas. Once I switched the 6.0 to alky, the converter flashed about 5900

You have to read ALL the words to comprehend.
Just a tip.

Got the FTI tuned converter tested yesterday, I'm pleased, now to get the 4.11's back into it.

Car went quicker than it ever has at all increments.

I think that changing the gear will let some MPH happen with little to no ET penalty.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Got the FTI tuned converter tested yesterday, I'm pleased, now to get the 4.11's back into it.

Car went quicker than it ever has at all increments.

I think that changing the gear will let some MPH happen with little to no ET penalty.

Well that didn't work out as planned.
4.11's slowed the ET by a solid .06, starting at the 60', did squeeze a fraction of MPH increase, but the launch action just isn't where I want it.....so, right back with the 4.56's or try some 4.33's?
I'm inclined to put the .56's back in and turn the launch RPM down a touch and race it for a while.
It prints tickets though, I won't have many excuses to be a NDMF next season.

Now back to your regularly scheduled shenanigans.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Got the FTI tuned converter tested yesterday, I'm pleased, now to get the 4.11's back into it.

Car went quicker than it ever has at all increments.

I think that changing the gear will let some MPH happen with little to no ET penalty.

Well that didn't work out as planned.
4.11's slowed the ET by a solid .06, starting at the 60', did squeeze a fraction of MPH increase, but the launch action just isn't where I want it.....so, right back with the 4.56's or try some 4.33's?
I'm inclined to put the .56's back in and turn the launch RPM down a touch and race it for a while.
It prints tickets though, I won't have many excuses to be a NDMF next season.

Now back to your regularly scheduled shenanigans.

4.88, 5.00 or 5.13 if it'all 1/8 mile.

Why you thought a 4.11 was gonna be better, is beyond my comprehension, it's a sbc.

Unless you're trying to go slow like me. Put a 3.89 in it if ya wanna succeed at that. Works good.

Of course you don't comprehend, because you always fail to see the point, because you seem to think your goals are what everyone should want.

4.11's are better if I want to run 1/4 mile, been running them for many years. I went 4.56's when I went to a spragless converter and a roller cam 406, wanting a few more finish line RPM's.
Now I'm working back toward my "normal" and documenting the tweaks.
.06 on the dial-in is meaningless, it's just a tool to document the testing.

There is a particular feel and action I want from my car, and it's going to be fine for me.