quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
Does anybody know of a block heater that will fit in the screw in freeze plug holes on a Brodix block?

Jegs sell one that’ll work with Brodix block

quote:

Originally posted by gxp7903:
Jegs sell one that’ll work with Brodix block

Not with mine...I have the half fill option...I'm kinda out of luck on this one, can't find anything anywhere. Oh well.

Thinking of adding either a water restrictor or t-stat. Thoughts???

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by gxp7903:
Jegs sell one that’ll work with Brodix block

Not with mine...I have the half fill option...I'm kinda out of luck on this one, can't find anything anywhere. Oh well.

Thinking of adding either a water restrictor or t-stat. Thoughts???

Drill and tap into the water jacket somewhere for a screw in cartridge heater. You can weld on a bung if you have to.

Curtis

You will need these, and 3/4" screw in heater.

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wc...No=&persistYmm=false

What you really need is Jegs # 51117 znd 51118. The half fill should only come to the bottom of the freeze plug holes.

Ok been running a rons terminator for 2 years and I love it
I run the primer system as well just for moving car from garage to trailer and also use block heaters
my trouble is I get black sludge in bottem of oil pan after 1 meeting this is not nice any ideas why this is happening. TIA

quote:

Originally posted by fastfish451:
Ok been running a rons terminator for 2 years and I love it
I run the primer system as well just for moving car from garage to trailer and also use block heaters
my trouble is I get black sludge in bottem of oil pan after 1 meeting this is not nice any ideas why this is happening. TIA

What oil are you using. If it is high in Moly it can do that.

quote:

Originally posted by fastfish451:
Ok been running a rons terminator for 2 years and I love it
I run the primer system as well just for moving car from garage to trailer and also use block heaters
my trouble is I get black sludge in bottem of oil pan after 1 meeting this is not nice any ideas why this is happening. TIA

Sounds like the goop from rod bolt installation and possible camshaft goop.
Begs the question....1 race and the pan needs to come off?

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by gxp7903:
Jegs sell one that’ll work with Brodix block

Not with mine...I have the half fill option...I'm kinda out of luck on this one, can't find anything anywhere.

Mark

Did you ever get a block heater for your half filled Brodix block?



Thanks
Tom

I have been running alcohol for 23 years and have learned a lot. Things like many of the old complaints about alcohol are unwarranted.

Have to change the oil every week. No you dont. Just get motor and oil good and warm at the end of race day. Water evaporates out at 212* alcohol at about 160* and both even lower than that if there is a vacuum. I try to get water temp up over 210 at end of the day and you can see the vapor come out of the vacuum pump separator and the oil clear up.
Corrosion? Not really, if you leave anything too long when it gets cool the moisture in the air will condense on cylinder walls just like it does on your car windows in the morning or on glass of iced tea. That will cause surface rust on cylinder walls. It is the moisture causing corrosion not the fuel.
For everything I have I try to start it once a month to keep carb clean and surface rust from forming. That includes generators, lawn mowers and my race cars.
I have ran alcohol that was stored in a barrel for 15 years. It ran EXACTLY same as fresh.

You burn much more alcohol. Well Yes and No. Most all tuners have the idle WAY TOO FAT and that wastes a lot of fuel and milks the oil. Lean the idle down it will heat up faster and not use much alcohol. Only thing to be real careful of is when air gets really good you need to fatten idle some or it will spit at the hit. Or you could run it stupid fat at idle like most do but do not cry about using a lot of alcohol and milking oil. Your choice.

Fuel lines, from my experience even when you run gas the hoses will get brittle and dry and crack after a few years. I think the PTFE is a little better and you may get better life out of them.

Fuel pressure on MFI some say you must run 125 PSI or more to atomize the fuel. Not true in my opinion. I have ran 150+ and 40 PSI. Runs same and no difference on my O2 sensors. I am currently running about 45-50 depending on main jet and my tune up.

Why do I like alcohol so much?

1. It is cheaper to run.

2. Runs cooler. This is big especially if you run someone who is lets just say not a very nice person. Someone who wants to play silly little staging games and burn you down. On gas motor gets hot and you get pissed off. On alcohol I turn on my fan and let them make a fool of themselves. Do not let it rattle me at all. Love alcohol when dealing with Stupid people. I just consider it an advantage there.

I do recommend running top lube but do not over do it or that will cause problems to.

Curly you are spot on.

I love my Enderle MFI and methanol. However I do run 120+psi and 170+ degrees water temperature. That's why i am asking about the heaters from Colorado. My future block might be an aluminum block. (I think I found the heaters from Jegs)

Curly, if you don't mind I would like to ask you about your 8 RP O2s. I run a tunnel ram with a custom top. I have 8 EGT's and an o2 in each collector. (I will not be balancing by the EGT's)

I have seen you mention you have balanced your 8 o2's. I have run Spud millers flowed jets and currently have some matched .031's from Good Vibrations.

How much stagger did it take you to balance your O2's? Are you just moving them something like .001 on a nozzle jet? (I know it also has an effect on the others.) Or are you using ICT with a Grid to do it?

Thanks
Tom

I never did get the heater. I put in a tstat, but am going to put in a hotter one...my stuff seems to like it more the hotter it is...funny I say that now, couldn't get it cool enough on gas...now I can't get it warm....ugh....

Putting a primer plus from ron's on it before next season. faster warm up, easier starting...and less alky use during warmups.....

Thanks Mark

Do you know if your 1/2 fill is up to the block plugs?

Do you think these would work?

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51117/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51118/10002/-1

Thanks again.

I first tried MFI in 1985.I last ran a carb in 1985.

For some folks a carb is simple and they think MFI is some kind of voodoo . IMO its just the opposite .Nothing simpler than basic MFI.Now me I have to play and complicate things(in other opinion),but again after 30 years you are suppose to have trick or two up your sleeve.

Methanol runs cooler
less change with weather
now days every track sells it so easy to get
cost less than gas for ultra high compression All said by Curly earlier.
One more thing for me. Can't mix gas with nitro for little extra lazy horsepower. LOL

quote:

Originally posted by 69427:
Thanks Mark

Do you know if your 1/2 fill is up to the block plugs?

Do you think these would work?

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51117/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51118/10002/-1

Thanks again.

Yes, mine is solid to the bottom of the freeze plug holes. I don't know if those would work honestly. There isn't much room behind them either.

Methanol vs. Gasoline the age old question. I think it boils down to 3 things, performance, maintenance, cost.

Performance (horsepower and torque)
I've been in the 500+ cubic inch big block chevy world for about 20 years and all of my combinations have been MFI. Current combination is 615 20 degree Dart heads with Enderle K valve, accufab 4 blade and SV632 intake. Dyno'd on gasoline carburetor and alcohol MFI. Methanol made more power (30 HP peak better, 70 tq better). Peak numbers were at lower RPM's on methanol, but still better than gas (at gas peak# RPM). Methanol was 20-30 hp better period. 1400 CFM gas dominator 116 vp, merlin X intake. MFI was Enderle bird catcher and tunnel ram. If you talk to most engine builders they will tell you that big motors can't make big power on methanol. I say BS, check sonny lennords website, he's got some big inch motors on MFI making BIG power. I think most builders don't have time and energy to mess with MFI nor does it make sense for them to do so but to say that big cubic inch motors will not make good power MFI and on methanol is BS, it takes some time to figure out the combo but they will make good power. If you are committed to methanol, you will figure it out as i have. The 20 degree 615 has been best of 4.62 at 150 with a little left in the converter department, @1500' DA, 2030 lbs 4 link dragster. It can be done is all i'm saying. Will a big inch motor with GOOD flowing heads currently running impressive ET on gasoline run faster on methanol, probabally not initially but the potential is there if you are willing to work on the combination till you find the sweet spot. If you are in smaller cubic inch world with lesser flowing heads, methanol especially injection will wake your combination up usually. So for me in the performance department methanol wins over gasoline.

As far as repeatability and predictability, i don't believe this is a function of which fuel you run, rather how good your entire combination is. Once your combination is on kill (gas or methanol) and you know how to predict what it will run for given situations at given race tracks, you are good regardless of what fuel you run. I do like the control i have over engine temp on methanol, but i'm sure if i were gasoline player i'd have good cooling system and able to manage engine temp with that too. Methanol vs. Gasoline this is Tie. There is no clear advantage for methanol over gasoline here.

Maintenance
My MFI system is as simple as it gets with the rons primer plus system for start up and shut down at the end of the day on race gas, the motor has no idea that methanol ever went through it. Vacuum pumps are mandatory regardless of carbureted or MFI at least in my book they are. Most folks on gasoline are running vacuum pumps so this to me is a non-issue. If you build a race motor it should have a vacuum pump on it IMO. Given this your oil should look not a whole lot different than a similar gasoline motor. Change it whenever you feel like it, with a good functioning vacuum pump you should have minimal to zero impact on oil from running methanol. I don't run a carburetor so i can't really comment there but in my book methanol wins here too, i too would run 1 year old methanol but not 1 year old gasoline.

Cost
Methanol regardless of how bad you have your tune up will always be cheaper than gasoline unless race gas costs come down to the 6 dollars a gallon range. In my book methanol is the clear winner here.

End of the day the choice is yours, both work, both are effective, both win races. Personal choice is all it amounts to, for me cost is the deciding factor all the other stuff is just lagniappe and plus side benefits of methanol.

555,
I think that is a good and accurate real world look at alcohol racing.