Switched from gas to alcohol a few years ago and happy I did. Car is a zerox machine and rarely changes through the day.

Maint is no more than with gas. I run a primer plus and use it to get heat in the motor and for moving the car around for short periods on and off the track (only when cold). Otherwise I use alcohol. My carb came from APD and havent touched it in 3 seasons.

For end of the year I pull a carb line. Have GF or kid pump fuel tank out. Dump in gas laying around garage from can. Turn on pump again until fuel comes out. Cap line. Pull off carb, pull bowls and blow everything out. Spray carb with WD40 put in original box and put it on shelf.

Reverse the above for startup in the spring. Zero issues.

Between races I do nothing. Sometimes the carb has alcohol in bowls. Other times its dry from running primer plus which will pull alcohol from bowls until empty. Dont really pay attention as its never been an issue full or empty. Sometimes car sits for weeks depending on schedule/vacations/kids events.

Primer plus and vaccum pump are the key. No milky oil and no issues through season.

Cost is way way less than high octane racegas.

But if you race against me I would stick with gas.

Notice a lot of posts say it's no more maintenance than gas, then go on to tell of what they have to do and all of the extra stuff you need.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Notice a lot of posts say it's no more maintenance than gas, then go on to tell of what they have to do and all of the extra stuff you need.

Yep or they haven’t touched their carb but yet it’s off the car, cleaned and lubed.
Only thing I did last year was drain water and put antifreeze mix in cooling system. Well I did fog my motor with stabil fogging oil.

quote:

Originally posted by green1:

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Notice a lot of posts say it's no more maintenance than gas, then go on to tell of what they have to do and all of the extra stuff you need.

Yep or they haven’t touched their carb but yet it’s off the car, cleaned and lubed.
Only thing I did last year was drain water and put antifreeze mix in cooling system. Well I did fog my motor with stabil fogging oil.

At years end with MFI, I drain the 3 gal fuel cell, filters and pump by loosening two fittings and return methanol to drum.

Place 1/2 gal 93 octane with 4 oz of Klotz Uplon and 4 oz of Seafoam in fuel cell and run the engine with the Primer Plus system to temp and change oil if needed. Uplon is an excellent lube that mixes with all fuels.

Beginning of season, remove the 93 octane the same as above and put in riding lawn mower. Fill MFI cell with methanol and go racing.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
Notice a lot of posts say it's no more maintenance than gas, then go on to tell of what they have to do and all of the extra stuff you need.

You don't need a vacuum pump to keep the oil looking like oil. A simple Moroso evac kit valvecover hose to collector works fine. Put both breathers in the front side of valvecovers towards the radiator. That and 200 degrees when you shut it off after a lap. You need absolutely nothing else.

Mr. Woodfin,
Alcohol is the only way to go especially since you are going to be racing in Texas. Having the SBC in the car the added Tq you are going to get with the alky is irreplaceable, especially in the summer months.

Gas for the Generator
Diesel for the Truck or Motorhome
Alky for racing (during and after)!

Well I don't do any other maintenance than if I ran gas. I don't drain anything for the winter. I will spray the carb with wd-40 in the spring and pump the tank out to re mix the top lube.

I fog the motor then push back into garage and cover carbs with towel. Come spring time start it up and go over the valves then add gas when needed, 3 gallon cell doesn’t hold enough to worry about it going bad as it will be burnt up by time car goes down the track.
I put heated soft plugs in last winter so I don’t even have to fire it up to do valves hot now.

You do not HAVE TO RUN A VACUUM PUMP with alcohol or Gas for that matter but it does help to keep oil cleaner and less leaks.

Green1 - Tell me about heated soft plugs....

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
You do not HAVE TO RUN A VACUUM PUMP with alcohol or Gas for that matter but it does help to keep oil cleaner and less leaks.

Agreed !! I have EVAC. No maintenance in a 700 hp sbc.

I also want to know about the engine heater plugs

I bought them at Advance Auto, I believe they are made by Kat. I can have my motor up to 160 in couple hours if I want, don’t remember just how long as I did have one go bad and haven’t changed it yet. I left mine so I plug each one in individually then I can plug one in during cold weather between rounds and keep engine temp up. I save a ton of race fuel this way and usually go to lanes having to cool my motor. Easy to take a little temp out with my car.

Maybe these?

http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/parts-lookup

Looking through Kat's different heaters they have a nice selection of npt screw in units that could possibly be configured easier than the core plug style. Their part 11423 1/2" npt 400 watt looks like something I'm going to get.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CURTIS REED,

https://www.amazon.com/Chromal...TV4GVPXP7BHYW1TQ3KKS

This is what I used on mine. I had a bung welded into the bottom of the radiator tank on the feed side to the waterpump. 600w, 120v, 1/2" npt. Works well on my junk.

Zerostart is another brand of engine heaters. If you have a SBC or 1 5/8 freeze plugs you can find a higher wattage heater that fits the GM diesels that will work. You can also use the stick on pad heater for the oil pan.
With the freeze plug heaters you shouldn't run the engine or water pump with them plugged in as it can damage the element.

On one of my motors I put the block heaters in and they helped some. But I did not bother on last motor. Here in Texas it is usually not that cold anyway. One thing I do is when it is cold I will throw a moving blanket over motor between rounds and that helps some.

Just use block heaters in the freeze plug hole. Like these but for the correct engine.

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JE...ters/752718/10002/-1

I switched to Methanol a long time ago. I use a carb reworked by Nickerson in PA. Uses a lot less alky in the pits, warm up is good and no need for a secondary fuel system.
I think the amount of maintenance required is totally dependent on where you do most of your racing. The humidity in the air is going to determine how much water vapor you're dealing with. Vacuum pump has helped a lot but I ran quite a bit without one. I use 2 ounces of lube in 5-6 gallons and no issues.
And - I know you're busy on your new ride but did you ever find those chassis plate pics?

Does anybody know of a block heater that will fit in the screw in freeze plug holes on a Brodix block?