From Mahle.

Good learning tool with pictures.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket....ng-failure-analysis/

DL it and run it. (SAFE)

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
From Mahle.

Good learning tool with pictures.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket....ng-failure-analysis/

DL it and run it. (SAFE)

Appears to be surface fatigue from those picts...due to end of usable life. Fair enough! Got my money's worth. LOL.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
From Mahle.

Good learning tool with pictures.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket....ng-failure-analysis/

DL it and run it. (SAFE)

Appears to be surface fatigue from those picts...due to end of usable life. Fair enough! Got my money's worth. LOL.

The picture shows the uppers. Were they lowers like that also? How does the upper just fatigue like that? My initial thoughts on the pic of the damaged bearing was #19 of 25. Read the (cause) description on it.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
From Mahle.



DL it and run it. (SAFE)

Appears to be surface fatigue from those picts...due to end of usable life. Fair enough! Got my money's worth. LOL.

Gives you some sort of idea. Helps a little bit. At first i would of thought oil/fuel dilution. Years ago i had issues with commercial grade methanol that tore up the system. Before additives came to market. The inside of the aluminum moon tank looked like that. Non anodized.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
From Mahle.



DL it and run it. (SAFE)

Appears to be surface fatigue from those picts...due to end of usable life. Fair enough! Got my money's worth. LOL.

Gives you some sort of idea. Helps a little bit. At first i would of thought oil/fuel dilution. Years ago i had issues with commercial grade methanol that tore up the system. Before additives came to market. The inside of the aluminum moon tank looked like that. Non anodized.

I don't add anything to my fuel either. So that could be a contributor.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
From Mahle.

Good learning tool with pictures.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket....ng-failure-analysis/

DL it and run it. (SAFE)

Appears to be surface fatigue from those picts...due to end of usable life. Fair enough! Got my money's worth. LOL.

The picture shows the uppers. Were they lowers like that also? How does the upper just fatigue like that? My initial thoughts on the pic of the damaged bearing was #19 of 25. Read the (cause) description on it.

Yes that one is surface fatigue. #19
The lowers look fine. No sign of the same thing the uppers have.

If I had 5 year old bearings that looked like that I would be ecstatic. Those bearings owe you nothing. Put a new set in and don't look back

VR1 is good stuff, they took the zinc away for a time and I started using the green oil again. I used VR1 for years when you could no no longer get the green oil at the auto parts store in Kendall brand. Bearings always looked new with either oil. I've seen another brand I hear a few racers speak highly of, I wouldn't use for drag racing. I did a small block for one of em, I took the engine apart in front of the guy and he's raving about the oil. We get all the bearings out of it laying on the bench and he says , that thing looks pretty good for a full season of racing don't it"? I said it looks pretty good for 100,000 miles maybe LoL. I ain't gonna mention no brand name but VR1 with zinc is some good chit. There's probably others as well but I can say confidently from side by side practical experience, you can't go wrong with VR1 or the green oil.

^^^ LOL ya i remember that nasty green oil back in the day. You could never get rid of the smell.
Nasty, but never a problem *** would stick to anything. Including the pores in your skin. I use the RP XPR. Whole car is synthetic.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
^^^ LOL ya i remember that nasty green oil back in the day. You could never get rid of the smell.
Nasty, but never a problem *** would stick to anything. Including the pores in your skin. I use the RP XPR. Whole car is synthetic.

That's it, Pennsylvania crude. I was researching oil, XPR is good stuff. As I recall VR1 and Brad Penn are more middle of the road in comparison syn blends Redline, XPR, LAT, Driven.

Kendall was the green oil and was brought back as Brad-Penn and now it is called Penn Grade

Our bulk oil supplier was getting me cases for a decent price.

I like it and always have. Been using it for years...

I'd try Schaeffers if I could get it but no suppliers around here....That oil has a very good rep....

VR-1 is good as well.....Preferred by some pretty good engine builders

Pretty sure Penn Grade doesn't use the same base stock anymore. Just sayin. Now the truth is that there aren't many bad oils with today's technology.

Yeah SDVIC1, I agree. Good stuff. Back in the early 70's in Tampa we had a Kendall oil distribution facility right off Hillsborough Ave. Garlits was from Tampa so just about everyone I knew from the neighborhood hot rodders growing up, ran Kendall in the 80's. That place was cool to have in the neighborhood because we could pull in there around March every year, and they'd give us Garlits/Gatornationals banners, posters, stickers. So yeah I've been on the green oil forever, even Amalie. I read doing research a few months ago the Driven oil is now the Pennsylvania crude oil as I recall, but that could be incorrect/inacurate. We have cases of the old Brad Penn and plan on running it in the car we're getting prepared for the race in February at SGMP.

Having the CRS syndrome, wasn't Wolfs Head green back in the day also? Like early 60's 70's sort of trying to remember doing an oil change on a 63 Catalina with the 389.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
If I had 5 year old bearings that looked like that I would be ecstatic. Those bearings owe you nothing. Put a new set in and don't look back

I'm for sure happy with the life and condition!

I have been using VR1, but have noticed every time I have the pan off, there is some black residue in the bottom of the pan. I do use a probe oil heater, and wondered if it is buring some oil around the element and dropping the carbon. Kinda weird.

Pretty much all oils do that....leave a dark residue in the bottom of the pan....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Pretty much all oils do that....leave a dark residue in the bottom of the pan....

Seems like I have only seen it in recent years. Maybe I wasn't paying attention.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Pretty much all oils do that....leave a dark residue in the bottom of the pan....


Seems like I have only seen it in recent years. Maybe I wasn't paying attention.

could that posibaly be due to oils being a higher detergent than in the past?

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Pretty much all oils do that....leave a dark residue in the bottom of the pan....

I run Redline, it starts out green but also leaves a black film on the bottom of the pan

Motor oil is motor oil!