quote:

Originally posted by Alaskaracer:
When I ran gas, I got it as cool as I could on water temp, oil temp is more important. On alky, again oil temp is more important, but I try to get it to about 210 or so and let it heat soak, and never make a pass below 180-190 on water temp, as car performs best in that range.

I have a thread on oil temps. Getting it cool on gas seems to cool down the oil a lot also.

Been following that, surprising information.
My thought process has been that some of that is information that can only worry me at the wrong time.
I'm toying with adding some data collection devices for the grandkids... I have one two years away from stealing my seat.

When my two older sons Mike and Rob ran Late Model Circle Track cars they got the water as cold as they could and the oil as hot as they could prior to qualifying. That produced the quickest lap times.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Been following that, surprising information.
My thought process has been that some of that is information that can only worry me at the wrong time.
I'm toying with adding some data collection devices for the grandkids... I have one two years away from stealing my seat.

My data collection device is a knockoff Go-Pro aimed at the dash. Only fault is usually operator error forgetting to turn it on.

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
When my two older sons Mike and Rob ran Late Model Circle Track cars they got the water as cold as they could and the oil as hot as they could prior to qualifying. That produced the quickest lap times.

Bob

I've always been able to go .02 quicker in my car with the "Pro Stock cool down" to under 110 degrees.

I'd run it that way except in the summer it's pretty hard to get cooled to 100 degrees when the air you're blowing across the radiator is 120-140 degrees, from off the pavement.

I've always run it cool, and rich on mixture, because I like lots of compression, and cheap 110 race fuel.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Been following that, surprising information.
My thought process has been that some of that is information that can only worry me at the wrong time.
I'm toying with adding some data collection devices for the grandkids... I have one two years away from stealing my seat.

My data collection device is a knockoff Go-Pro aimed at the dash. Only fault is usually operator error forgetting to turn it on.

I've got oil pressure, water temp, and a the replay tach in the Mega-200 for data now.

Considering a Fuel Tech 600 setup with some sensors.

quote:

.Considering a Fuel Tech 600 setup with some sensors.

If you’re looking at FuelTech for data acquisition, now would be a great time to purchase during their Black November sales event.

Imho the FT550 would be a better deal than the FT600 that offers everything you’ll need in the same size display.

FuelTech comparison

quote:

My data collection device is a knockoff Go-Pro aimed at the dash

I removed this Holley Pro Dash from my car and have it on my desktop powered by a trailer brake away battery with a trickle charger on it. This dash has 9 pages of displays available. I’m designing several new displays for 2024.

This pic is in the customize mode. This will have large flashing warning banners for low oil pressure and high water temp that disappear when everything is normal.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

.Considering a Fuel Tech 600 setup with some sensors.

If you’re looking at FuelTech for data acquisition, now would be a great time to purchase during their Black November sales event.

Imho the FT550 would be a better deal than the FT600 that offers everything you’ll need in the same size display.

FuelTech comparison

I'm still looking and pondering, but having the FT piece in my car kind of scares me, it's got features I shouldn't have.

I need less of the control, and just more on the data collection, and I'd like to be able to overlay several runs.
I'll collect the data until I have the pattern, address any issues I see, from then on it will only get collected if there's an issue.

I'd like to help the grandkids accelerate their learning of how to operate and maintain this race car. I want to finish the the car the best it can be, and it's pretty dang close right now.

ET swings on gas will be more than alcohols, but can be minimized. What temps your engine needs depends on the fuel you use and its vaporization properties, and how efficient the engine and carb are at atomizing/distributing the air and fuel. Less efficient engines need more heat, more efficient less. As an example Pro Stock cools their engines, usually below 70 degrees and make more power. For consistency get a digital temp gauge, try to find the most consistent temps and stick to them.

Car is real good, follows the general atmosphere like you'd expect, but the thing that will get it screwy is changing dewpoint, or falling close to the dewpoint temperature between the weather station and the starting line.
I've always been able to read the track lighting haze for a warning of being right on the verge of dewpoint, dial it up, when the haze clears up, dial it back down.
Would a higher operating temperature have an effect on the suspended moisture content?