You can make a pass in a racecar with no fire jacket or belts and it works, just not recommended. Once you get past an open trailer stepping up to a 3/4 or 1 ton is just better.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
I have a Featherlite 4926 24’ all aluminum to include the floor. No interior, I can hose it out, nothing to rust. This model trailer has a lower floor height and the interior wheel pockets are much higher than most. Weights 3100 empty (without spare). It has the older model 4800 lb Dexter axles that used 12x2” 5 bolt backing brake shoes. All the later models I believe are 4 bolt 10”. Loaded for the race track it’s just under 7000 lb. For me, I’d never own anything but an all-aluminum trailer.

This trailer pulls easy with my Ram 1/2 ton using a WD hitch and stops great also. I expect the trailer to provide its end of the stopping power in an emergency and check the trailer brake shoe adjustment every season. I average 5 - 8k miles with this trailer every year.

I’ve also check the braking power of my truck in the event the trailer brakes failed. I turned the brake controller to 0 output and did several fast stops from 65 mph to get a feel of what I would be up against. I’m impressed with the brakes on my truck but am also impressed with the trailer brakes when properly maintained.

Great advise MeM! Crazy how well it don’t stop without trailer assistance. If everyone did this there would be bigger gaps between trucks and cars.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
You can make a pass in a racecar with no fire jacket or belts and it works, just not recommended.

I am required to wear a 3.2A/1 jacket and pants in Stock Eliminator.I suppose a 3.2A/5 or 3.2A/15 is better too.

I hope you never find out.

quote:

Originally posted by 442OLDS:

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
You can make a pass in a racecar with no fire jacket or belts and it works, just not recommended.

I am required to wear a 3.2A/1 jacket and pants in Stock Eliminator.I suppose a 3.2A/5 or 3.2A/15 is better too.

Just step up to an SFI 5 and be done with it.

Truck came into the shop yesterday. Late model Chev 2500 HD. Contractor pulling a heavy 24' enclosed trailer.

I'm not sure what it was in for but the tech discovered that even though the trailer has electric brakes, the truck doesn't have any controller. No OEM or aftermarket brake controller for the trailer. It has a standard 7 wire RV plug on the truck for the trailer to plug into but no signal comes from the truck to operate the trailer brakes.

With how heavy the trailer is, it must be scary thinking about how much weight the truck brakes need to stop. I'm hoping we can install a brake controller for him so he doesn't kill someone.

I see so many of these types of combinations. Usually the trucks pulling the trailers are 3500's or F350, F550 trucks. None of the trailers are light. Normally enclosed trailers full of equipment or bobcat/loader flat decks. Not even the F350 trucks that are pulling these trailers use equalizer hitches.

quote:

Originally posted by AlkyIROC:


I'm not sure what it was in for but the tech discovered that even though the trailer has electric brakes, the truck doesn't have any controller. No OEM or aftermarket brake controller for the trailer.

Ironic. I had a customer come in last week with an issue. He bought a tractor "package" (39hp tractor/loader/bush hog all on a flat bed trailer). Guy shows up and wanted his tractor worked on and wanted to leave the trailer on our lot. Unfortunately we don't have the space for customers to leave them, so I had to tell him..and he went on to say that it's a pain in the backside to have to tow it. I mentioned something about brakes during the conversation and guy said he wished his 1/2 ton Chevy had better brakes. At that point, I asked him what controller he was using for the trailer brakes. His response? "The trailer has brakes?"

Fixed his tractor and called him to discuss the brakes on his trailer. He said the salesman said nothing about a controller or any brakes. Of course he didn't! The wanted to make the sale ASAP and get on to the next sale and omitted that part. Anyway, I told him more about it and he said he was going to stop at a trailer place where he knows the owner before coming to pick up his tractor. He gets to work and there are black marks leading up the the parking lot and the trailer tires are still smoking as he's pulling to the back of the building. He gets out, cusses me, and went in to pay the bill. As he came out I asked him if he adjusted the controller. "Didn't know you have to". Of course not! We got him adjusted better and off he went. Calls me when he gets home and says he was thankful that I showed him how to adjust it, and thankful that we told him that he needed a controller.

I have pulled many a mile without brakes and a brake controller but I'm not a gambler anymore. All it takes is one vehicle to pull out in front of you, or stop in front of you, and then you eat a car, tear up your tow rig, injure yourself, loved ones, or worse. If the race car's not tied down good, you chance destroying it too. Can't tell you how many tractors (and race cars) I've seen pulled on flat bed trailers with a tie down wrapped around the front of the towed load to keep it from rolling off of the back. But what if you hit something like another car? Over the front it goes, potentially into the cab with you. There was an accident on Memorial day right about a mile from here where a vacationer was pulling his bigger flat bottom boat (like a 20' long 72" wide) to the lake for the 3 day weekend. Car runs a red light at the intersection, he hits car, boat was not tied down in the back and the winch strap was on the front wrong, boat rides up over the winch post, breaks the strap, goes over the top of the truck and ends up in front of the truck in the middle of the highway. Guy was lucky. Totaled the boat, totaled the truck. A $30 set of good tie downs on the back would have stopped that problem, and very well could have avoided totaling both. If nothing else, helped reduce the amount of damage done.

The towing stories can go on and on, we've all seen or heard of them. Same with safety equipment, any questions ask Lyle Barnett or watch his video. Same kind of deal as when Tim McAmis talks about safety at a track.

Bottom line. Is towing with 1/2 ton best option? No. Can it be done yes,has been for decades.
Can everyone including OP buy 3/4 ton truck for towing ? No. If your concern is your safety or others with someone else using 1/2 ton I think you are worrying about wrong thing. Its dumba$$ 20 or 30 something in econo pos texting that's going to kill you anyway.

That is it I do not like to gamble. I think most all of us have towed with a 1/2 ton truck and most have went to larger truck after they wrecked or had too many close calls.

I do believe trucks are much more capable than they used to be- be it a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, or 1 ton. My 28’ is bad heavy- 2 7k axles, 3500 pound car, and enough crap to sink a small battleship. I’ve pulled it with three different trucks.
My work truck- 2016 F250 Super Duty XLT Powerstroke pulls it best. Oodles of power, factory brake controller, it does everything far better than I ever thought possible. The power is unbelievable, it handles my 28’ trailer like it was a lawnmower trailer.
My in-laws ‘spare’ truck-05 Dodge 2500 Cummins diesel pulls it almost as good as a powerstroke but it don’t stop quite as well. It handles it just fine, but not as good as my work truck.
My 95 C3500 Dually with a 454/5 speed handles the trailer fine..but it’s gutless! Used to think it had decent power but didn’t have a newer diesel to compare it to. I’ve put my car on my 16’ open trailer and followed a buddy pulling a 28’ enclosed with a hd1500 6.0, he could walk off and leave me on the interstate! Dually stops fine, just has a bad case of noassatall. I’ve gotta do some work on the poor thing, it’s embarrassing!!
Based on all of this, I don’t think pulling an enclosed with the 1/2 ton trucks of yesterday is comparable with the 1/2 ton trucks we have today.

I have to weigh in on this one since I just switched from a 2003 2500 dodge diesel to a new 1500 dodge 5.7 hemi. Money was not the reason for the switch. This is my daily driver and after driving the new truck for a couple of months now I realize how uncomfortable the old truck was. I have back issues so comfort is a major priority. I tow a 24' enclosed with a dragster about 7500 pounds. I use a good weight distributing hitch with integrated sway control. I have to say the new truck tows as good as the old 2500. Plenty of power, just need to get rpm's up to get up to speed. We tow 2 hours each way and lock the cruise on 70 mph no problem. Another big improvement is the integrated brake controller in the new truck. Stops much better and smoother than the Prodigy that was in the old truck. Already had to test the emergency stopping power and was no worries at all. I feel totally comfortable towing with this truck. Also as a bonus, sold the old truck while we could get decent money for it, above KBB. The diesel's really hold their value well. My only complaint is the 9 mpg towing vs 14 mpg with the diesel. Hope this helps anyone on the fence with their decision.
P.S. Another reason for the switch is Dodge was giving major markdowns on RAm trucks, trying to make room for the 2019's. Got a very good deal after haggling the price down even more.

The diesels don't hold their value any better than a gasser. They like to say that because you can get more for it at trade in time, but most don't figure in that you also paid a lot more to begin with-and paid more along the line for maintenance and/or repairs. And fuel/DEF.

Guy up the street bought a used 24' Featherlite. All aluminum. Weighs 3118lb across the scale (empty). My 24' Pace weighs 3446 across the same scale. Mine was under $5000. His a whole lot more but it's nicer. Having owned aluminum boat trailers (I know, apples to oranges), I know that aluminum tends to crack over time and use, and not everyone's got a TIG or at least a spoolgun to weld the cracks up. That's why I sold mine & went back to a steel trailer. That and it was just too light-bounced all over the place, would sorta float in attempting to load in a current, etc.

I agree the 1/2 ton and all trucks are better built for towing than they were years ago that is true.

But think about this there are more stupid people on the roads than ever before. And those are the problem you have to avoid. I have people cut in front of me all the time and slam on brakes. They are too stupid to realize that we can not stop quickly that is why we leave more room in front of us. It is not for them to cut in.

quote:

Originally posted by mavman:
Guy up the street bought a used 24' Featherlite. All aluminum. Weighs 3118lb across the scale (empty). My 24' Pace weighs 3446 across the same scale. Mine was under $5000. His a whole lot more but it's nicer. Having owned aluminum boat trailers (I know, apples to oranges), I know that aluminum tends to crack over time and use, and not everyone's got a TIG or at least a spoolgun to weld the cracks up. That's why I sold mine & went back to a steel trailer.

Sounds exactly like my 2003 Featherlite model 4926 car hauler which is a big seller for them. I agree that they are overpriced new and purchased used for $7500 in 2010. As for cracks in the welds, there aren’t any in the main structure of mine and I’ve been under it yearly to inspect. Definitely better built compared to others I’ve seen.

So why do 1/2 the job right?
JMO...

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I agree the 1/2 ton and all trucks are better built for towing than they were years ago that is true.

But think about this there are more stupid people on the roads than ever before. And those are the problem you have to avoid. I have people cut in front of me all the time and slam on brakes. They are too stupid to realize that we can not stop quickly that is why we leave more room in front of us. It is not for them to cut in.

I do agree with you on the part about stupid people/drivers.

Not sure I get the part about being able to stop in YOUR vehicle if somebody slams on the brakes?

If somebody is driving along and slams on the brakes,you are saying the larger and heavier vehicles will be able to stop,while the 1/2 ton pickup pulling a trailer is out of luck?

Purdy much...

Absolutely, the larger trucks have bigger brakes and can handle the trailer easier with the trailer pushing truck around too much. You do not want the tail wagging the dog.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
You do not want the tail wagging the dog.

In this case,I agree 100%.Seems unsafe to me.