I'm needing new slicks, thinking about trying MT bracket radials, I hear lots of good things about them. Who has experience with them? Results?

We have been on small radials for about 10+ years. The M/T PBR is our go to radial in a 29.5x10.5 & is a true 30" tall tire with a 10' tread width.

This tire is used on our Camaro at around 3,100 lbs. leaving on a transbrake. They worked great when the car was NA & running high 9s-low 10s. They also work great with our current ProCharged combo running mid 8s 1/4 mile & mid 5s 1/8 mile. We primarily race on hot tracks during the daytime, Las Vegas. We have been a best of 1.27 60' on them.

Any specific questions about them?

2BKING

G,day,
Just converted my 3100 lb bracket car to these exact tyres, transbraked 3 spd na.
Did run a best of 9.71 off a 29x10 hoosier bias ply,
Used to run them at 15 - 16 psi.
What pressure if you don't mind where you using in these na off the transbrake?
Cheers
Paul

quote:

Originally posted by Paul Dilley:
G,day,
Just converted my 3100 lb bracket car to these exact tyres, transbraked 3 spd na.
Did run a best of 9.71 off a 29x10 hoosier bias ply,
Used to run them at 15 - 16 psi.
What pressure if you don't mind where you using in these na off the transbrake?
Cheers
Paul

19-20 lbs. both NA & boosted. We have gone down to 18 & as high as 21 just for experimentation, but 19-20 is the sweet spot for us. We run them on 9" wide rims.

2BKING

G,day,
Thanks very much for that!
was thinking 18 - 20 from everything else i've read, was going to start at 18 and see what happens,
mine will be on a 10" rim, great info, thanks again!
Cheers
Paul

Been using these tires since they came out, zero complaints. Little to no burnout required and they'll last 250-300 runs. I run 19-20 psi. New combo went 6.06 @113 and 1.34 60' at 3300lbs.

I think quality control recently went to shyt thought. I just a got fresh set for this season and one tire took over 14 oz to balance, the other only took 5oz. And yes, I spun the tire on the rim 180 degrees and the weight followed the tire. Had a friend have the exact same issue, one good one bad.

They warrantied the tire but fact is there is/was an issue.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Been using these tires since they came out, zero complaints. Little to no burnout required and they'll last 250-300 runs. I run 19-20 psi. New combo went 6.06 @113 and 1.34 60' at 3300lbs.

I think quality control recently went to shyt thought. I just a got fresh set for this season and one tire took over 14 oz to balance, the other only took 5oz. And yes, I spun the tire on the rim 180 degrees and the weight followed the tire. Had a friend have the exact same issue, one good one bad.

They warrantied the tire but fact is there is/was an issue.

Where did you get the tires from? Was there any issue getting them to warranty them?

quote:

Where did you get the tires from? Was there any issue getting them to warranty them?

I got my set from Summit pro shop, they were really good on the Warranty. A simple phone call and they shipped another one right out. They wanted to send me a pair but I only requested one. My buddy got his from a local speed shop in PA and they too warrantied it with no problem.

Both of our new "warranty" tires balanced fine with only a few ounces of weight.

quote:

I just a got fresh set for this season and one tire took over 14 oz to balance, the other only took 5oz.

My 31x14s radials took 14 oz on one tire and zero on the other. No vibration issues on track.

I tried them @ Eddyville last Saturday during a 2 hr TNT for 3 runs and couldnt get a consistent 60' and the driveshaft graph looked horrible, so I switched back to my 3074S bias tires as the points series started right after the TNT session. The track was green on Saturday.... very good on Sunday though.

Ive been told I wasnt running enough tire pressure, so I will try them again, but not until a TNT session.

Clark

If switching from rear bias to radial, what changes to the suspension ( shock settings, 4 link, ladder bar) would need to be considered to make radial work properly/ best?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
If switching from rear bias to radial, what changes to the suspension ( shock settings, 4 link, ladder bar) would need to be considered to make radial work properly/ best?

When we switched many...many years ago. I was worried about all the so-called changes that needed to be done for the radials. Our car always worked good on biased slicks & we decided to leave the initial set-up the same. The car worked very well with the switch.

I don't remember our rear shock settings with the bias slicks but when we started refining the shock settings for the radials. The extension got looser & the compression got tighter. This is our current settings with our double adjustable AFCO shocks. AFCO wants all adjustments made from full tight/stiff; extension is 20 & compression is 9. As you can imagine the extension is pretty loose & compression is pretty tight.

As you probably know, radials need to be dead hooked. With our set-up it plants the tire pretty hard within reason with the extension & the compression holds that extension or plant.

The front AFCO shocks we had to tighten the extension a good amount to help with the wheelies & the compression is pretty tight. This keeps the front nose high going down the track & works for our small rear tires.

As for our traction bars. They were angle up slightly on the front of the bar & they hit the tire pretty hard; we were having big wheely issues last year. We calmed them down by moving the front of the bar down. Plus, we changed the rear gear from 3.89 to a 3.55 rear gear. What a night & day difference on how the car leaves. It almost leaves to soft now; going to move the front of the bar back up & give that a try.

2BKING

Car at rest & at the hit; this was when the motor was NA.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by CAD:

quote:

I just a got fresh set for this season and one tire took over 14 oz to balance, the other only took 5oz.

My 31x14s radials took 14 oz on one tire and zero on the other. No vibration issues on track.

I tried them @ Eddyville last Saturday during a 2 hr TNT for 3 runs and couldnt get a consistent 60' and the driveshaft graph looked horrible, so I switched back to my 3074S bias tires as the points series started right after the TNT session. The track was green on Saturday.... very good on Sunday though.

Ive been told I wasnt running enough tire pressure, so I will try them again, but not until a TNT session.

Clark

That surprises me. My car put down the best run ever, at every increment, at a late evening Test & Tune session, low 40's ambient temperature on PBR's. An observer told me right before I went into the burnout box "you'll never get down that lane, it's s*&t!"

Without any scientific data to back me up, I feel like if there is an adjustment to be made for the radials, it would be softer springs and / or tighter shock settings.
The radials will have a much higher contact patch spring rate.
I'd guess if you showed "paddle" on the graph, you indeed did not have enough tire pressure.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
If switching from rear bias to radial, what changes to the suspension ( shock settings, 4 link, ladder bar) would need to be considered to make radial work properly/ best?

A friend of mine just switched another 14 x 32 car from stiff sidewall slicks to Hoosier bracket radials for this season. No suspension changes. Needed to add 20 to the delay box and it was printing 1.273-1.275 60' times. Won Super Pro at Brainerd on Saturday.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
If switching from rear bias to radial, what changes to the suspension ( shock settings, 4 link, ladder bar) would need to be considered to make radial work properly/ best?

A friend of mine just switched another 14 x 32 car from stiff sidewall slicks to Hoosier bracket radials for this season. No suspension changes. Needed to add 20 to the delay box and it was printing 1.273-1.275 60' times. Won Super Pro at Brainerd on Saturday.

That’s outstanding! I was at a larger event this past weekend and what few radials I did see were the 9.0/ 10.0 variety nothing larger. I’d like to try a set (preferably used + still good), but needing 101+ RO it’s a $900+ experiment if purchased new. Then I ask myself “what am I gaining”. My car leaving wheels down is probably better off on bias.

Its been a few years but....

3200 lb, foot brake, 6.00-5.80 et, iron headed big block, on bias goodyears 6.00s consistently, on 29.5x10.5x15 PBR, mounted on 12" wide non-beadlock wheel, it immediately went to solid 5.90's and was deadly consistent. I did the swap on in between time trials. Improved by a solid 0.100 to 0.150 sec. The Goodyears had less than 30 passes.

Same car with more power and aluminum heads ran consistent 5.60-5.50's but was wheelie happy and either printing tickets or spinning like a top fuel car before we passed the tree. This was post swap to Super Pro so leaving of transbrake. Ran the same on ladderbars or CE slide a links. Usually bad spinning passes were on greasy lower quality racetracks.

I always ran tire pressure down around 12 psi, never got close to the 18 PSI number possibly would have cured the bad passes referenced above.

My experience was, when drag radials are good they are EXCELLENT. When they are bad they are really bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
Its been a few years but....

3200 lb, foot brake, 6.00-5.80 et, iron headed big block, on bias goodyears 6.00s consistently, on 29.5x10.5x15 PBR, mounted on 12" wide non-beadlock wheel, it immediately went to solid 5.90's and was deadly consistent. I did the swap on in between time trials. Improved by a solid 0.100 to 0.150 sec. The Goodyears had less than 30 passes.

Same car with more power and aluminum heads ran consistent 5.60-5.50's but was wheelie happy and either printing tickets or spinning like a top fuel car before we passed the tree. This was post swap to Super Pro so leaving of transbrake. Ran the same on ladderbars or CE slide a links. Usually bad spinning passes were on greasy lower quality racetracks.

I always ran tire pressure down around 12 psi, never got close to the 18 PSI number possibly would have cured the bad passes referenced above.

My experience was, when drag radials are good they are EXCELLENT. When they are bad they are really bad.

As probably mentioned, I run a PBR 29.5x10.5 at 3100 lbs. & running mid 5s 1/8th mile. I don't have a problem with spinning on cold or hot tracks. IMO, your tire pressure was your problem/issue!

I leave off a transbrake also.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
That’s outstanding! I was at a larger event this past weekend and what few radials I did see were the 9.0/ 10.0 variety nothing larger. I’d like to try a set (preferably used + still good), but needing 101+ RO it’s a $900+ experiment if purchased new. Then I ask myself “what am I gaining”. My car leaving wheels down is probably better off on bias.

If you have a good working car. IMO, I would take the so-called jump & spend the money. I wouldn't call it an experiment. I believe in all the radials I have run. I was scared & probably had the same worries you have, or I did have. I don't even worry on shyt track with radials!

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by markemark:

A friend of mine just switched another 14 x 32 car from stiff sidewall slicks to Hoosier bracket radials for this season. No suspension changes. Needed to add 20 to the delay box and it was printing 1.273-1.275 60' times. Won Super Pro at Brainerd on Saturday.

And Casteel won No Box on Sunday on the same PBRs that Im referring to...

quote:

Originally posted by CAD: Ive been told I wasnt running enough tire pressure, so I will try them again, but not until a TNT session. Clark

What air pressure were you using to test, and what did others recommend afterwards?