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DRR Pro |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by inferno camaro: I am pulling 10 degrees for 1.5 seconds. Tightened front struts trying to keep the frontend down. It wanted to wheelie like crazy. It had some wobble side to side like a boat 1st couple passes. I tightened rear compression and it was good for 3 passes. The last pass it tripped the 330' with the rear tires and wobbled slightly after landing. I think it will be good when I get the front end to stay down more. I just changed from 4.86 gear to 4.56 for this weekend. The lack of tire growth picked me up about 250 rpm out the end so going back to the 4.56. I think with the 4.56 and some more tuning I'll be able to run full timing but time will tell. Lets also not forget track temp was 140+ last weekend also. I love the fact it never shakes the tire. I'm also taking the wheelie bars off for this weekend, hoping removing 35lbs from the rear will also help keep the frond down but hopefully not cause spin. [QUOTE] Thanks for sharing your info on the PBR, keep us in the loop of getting them dialed in. 2BKING ![]() ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR Sportsman![]() |
29.5x10.5 PBRs @18 lbs on my junk. 6.40s at 3090 lbs. I found I needed to loosen my single adjustable AFCO rear shocks to allow the chassis to separate and plant the tires better. Small burnout with little smoke. 72 Nova "Hooptie" | |||
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DRR Trophy![]() |
I took it out with the 4.56 gear in it and testing was cut short so didn't get to try much. The car was not happy so I made a 4 link change before eliminations started. The car worked ok, again really high track temps. Once the sun started getting off the track the car was repeating very well. I made 15 passes through the 2 races that day and it had (radial wobble) on 13 of them including the last pass that got so bad it slowed me down .02 and ended my weekend. 60' varied .004 last 4 passes. Was actually pulling more timing than last week 12 degrees for 1.5 seconds just to be sure I could get down. I noticed when changing the 4 link the shocks were damp on top so I pulled them after the weekend and sent them to be rebuilt. Hoping this will resolve the wobble I'm fighting. I still feel these will be really good once everything is dialed in. | |||
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DRR Trophy![]() |
Finally didn't rain us out, shocks rebuilt and put back on. Still pulling timing and all it wants to do is rock back and forth side to side. Changed shock settings and tire pressures and zero help. I hate to do it but I think I'm giving up on them unless I can find someone who has some knowledge of what I can change to help with it. Car seems consistent to the 60 then starts rocking/wobbling so never even got to try adding timing back in. Really thought it had potential but I'm out of ideas. | |||
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DRR Pro |
We finally had to retire our 29.5x10.5 M/T PBR's with 200+ runs. The tread indicators still have a good amount left. I'm pretty sure the sidewalls gave up ship around 175 passes. We put on our Hoosier Factory Stock 9" radials with about 50 runs on them & won our last of the season points race. 2BKING ![]() ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Congrats on your Win!!! Good to hear the Hoosiers worked as good as the prior MT radials. Going from 10.5 to 9” wasn’t an issue? | |||
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DRR Pro |
Thanks M & M! No issues, see below. Here's the inside scope on these 2 radial slicks. The M/Ts are a true 30" dia. & the tread width measures 10.0". That's me measuring on my rims. The Hoosiers are made specifically for the 7 sec. Factory Stock shoot out cars. They are also legal in all other Stock Eliminator classes also. These tires are a true 30" dia. The tread width measures 9.9". During earlier in season testing with both tires they were both very close in performance. The tire compound is pretty new for Hoosier & I've only found it on this tire, C30 compound. These are a lightweight radial. The M/Ts I know can be raced on a shyt surface & be competitive. These new Hoosiers have only been tested on bracket prep. I have a new set of Factory Stock Hoosiers that are going to be mounted in place of the M/Ts on my double bead locks. They will be my primary tire for testing in colder conditions coming up in Nov. This is where I've had problems (spinning at the hit) back when I started on radials long ago. The fix is a John Force type burnout, lots of heat but still get stopped before the beams. What I did find out this past weekend with the Hoosiers is they're tire pressure sensitive. I started at 19 lbs. as the rounds got closer together the tire started creeping up. Normally I adjust them down & I did a little, but I let them creep up as high as 19.5. With every .1 of increase the 60' got quicker. I need to revisit going up with more than 19.5 lbs. of pressure. 2BKING ![]() ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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DRR Pro |
Just for info: I was dismounting the M/T PBRs today & I could tell the sidewalls were a little too floppy. I guess 200+ runs is too many at this power level. While I was at it, I weighed the PBRs & the new Hoosier Factory Stock radials. The Hoosiers are 8 lbs. lighter each than the old used up PBRs. All I have now is two sets of Hoosier Factory Stock radials mounted up. I need to order new pair of M/T PBRs & get another set of matching beadlock rims. 2BKING ![]() ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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