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Rod & Main bearing clearance?
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DRR Top Comp
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Crate engine drag racing retard Ed, If you don't mind, when are you gonna do a tech thread on car covers again? Confused
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Busted Knuckles
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Bearing clearance doesn't matter when you starve the new engine for oil and weld a couple of Lunati Pro Mod rods to the Lunati Pro Series crank, does it, Ed?

Everybody in the shop came to the same conclusion - YOUR fault! TD just took care of it to shut your ****in' mouth.


Organized people are just too lazy to look for their $h!t.
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: November 09, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Another loser wanting to take a trip down memory lane going back 13 years ago to 2009. Wrong biotch, you weren’t on the call when Tracy took blame for it and fix it no charge. Tracy also told me numerous times you were a local broke dyck with junk that hung out at the shop looking for hand outs.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Busted Knuckles
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I was in the shop when they tore the broke SOB down, though, when the machinists and builders analyzed the carnage. Your fault.


Organized people are just too lazy to look for their $h!t.
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: November 09, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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More lies. Fact 1…the engine had 8 quarts of Mobil 1 10w-30 in the oil pan. Fact 2…the rod failed as a competitor and well respected local engine builder who has been posting here on occasion for the past decade, said it would when I told him what rods Tracy chose to use, a rod that had a history of going out of round during mock up assembly and disassembly that the manufacturer stopped producing within 2 years of my failure.

That said, no one cares but you loser. 13 years has past, that engine has been sold 3 years ago, Sunset Racecraft no longer exists and Tracy has been dead for 8 years.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
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All I know is this: both crank and rod clearances on my stuff is .0035". I run 15w50 Amsoil racing oil, a dry sump, and about 9 quarts in total of oil. Solid 80lbs of pressure even when hard on the brakes, and my bearings look nearly new when I tear down.....it works for me....

You can have your super light weight oil. There isn't enough to be gained by it to justify the use unless you're looking for every little 1/10th of hp. I'm not....when it takes about 50-100 hp to make any significant change to performance on track depending on the car, I'll take the heavier oil over the thinner every day.

One thing a lot don't realize is the newer cars these days. Some are now spec'd with 0w20. FYI, it's not for it's ability to lubricate. It's to reduce rotational drag to improve fuel economy and nothing more. It's also considered normal for today's engines to use a quart or more of oil per 1000 miles....lightweight rings are part of that equation. It's all about meeting CAFE standards, and they are using every last little bit they can to meet them.

Yeah, 0 weight oil is fine for 200k+ pro stock engines....but for what we do, no.......


Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
www.livinthedreamracing.com
"Speed kills but it's better than going slow!"
Authorized Amsoil Retailer
 
Posts: 1561 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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I'm hunting a Crane 11950-1 "coated" distributor gear or equivalent, to run on this 8620 billet cam core.

Melonized.

I put the red spring in the Melling billet oil pump, it lowers observed pressure 10 psi. 25% hi volume pump.




This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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quote:
Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
All I know is this: both crank and rod clearances on my stuff is .0035". I run 15w50 Amsoil racing oil, a dry sump, and about 9 quarts in total of oil. Solid 80lbs of pressure even when hard on the brakes, and my bearings look nearly new when I tear down.....it works for me....

You can have your super light weight oil. There isn't enough to be gained by it to justify the use unless you're looking for every little 1/10th of hp. I'm not....when it takes about 50-100 hp to make any significant change to performance on track depending on the car, I'll take the heavier oil over the thinner every day.

One thing a lot don't realize is the newer cars these days. Some are now spec'd with 0w20. FYI, it's not for it's ability to lubricate. It's to reduce rotational drag to improve fuel economy and nothing more. It's also considered normal for today's engines to use a quart or more of oil per 1000 miles....lightweight rings are part of that equation. It's all about meeting CAFE standards, and they are using every last little bit they can to meet them.

Yeah, 0 weight oil is fine for 200k+ pro stock engines....but for what we do, no.......


You pretty much hit the nail on the head it's all about fuel mileage. New Toyotas take 0w-16 oil, 0w-8 is coming in a year or two......


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3103 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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It absolutely is about cafe mileage standards and what the manufacturers had to do to meet those standards. Reducing friction with light rings and thin oils

My V10 Ford takes 5/20 and it’s pretty thin but I’ve read those engines were built to use that thinner oil and using heavier oil might cause problems

That I don’t know since I’ve used nothing but 5/20 since I’ve owned it

Those V10’s spin way up there in rpm if you let it or lean in it pulling hills
When I see my tach up near 5000 I cringe thinking about that weasel piss oil in there and make my trans shift up and get off the gas as much as possible. It does take it and does not use oil. I change it pretty much every thousand miles. Oil and filters are cheap !

Company vans at work that were Fords didn’t do so well on that same oil.

I think we had 2 trucks with engine issues, one got a new engine and they use oil and more than what I’d consider normal

I’ve seen and heard of other guys with other brand trucks that also use oil way more than you’d expect

My 100,000+ mile Duramax never uses oil and it gets 5/40 or 15/40
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
My V10 Ford takes 5/20 and it’s pretty thin but I’ve read those engines were built to use that thinner oil and using heavier oil might cause problems

Of course bearing clearances are sized accordingly. And oil galleys are even stair stepped to maintain desired pressures. Let's not forget VVT and oil viscosity's impact. The "favorite son" oil weight that leads in "film strength" these days is 5W30. As long as you have sufficient flow, liquid oil, the oil is simply acting as a hydraulic fluid, a non-compressible liquid. When you get down to film strength/load carrying capacity/sheer resistence like pushrods, cam lobes, cylinder walls, timing chain, etc. that's the real measure of an oils protection. You should have at least 100,000 psi film protection in a performance engine. JMO


Illegitimi non carborundum
 
Posts: 2385 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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Owner gonna like this one. Fast one.


 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of adv ET 266
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quote:
Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
I live in East Texas and have raced for many years at all the Dallas, Texas area tracks. Dallas is also the long-time home of R & M race engines, even back to the early days of Lee Shepherd, with the R & M Team being a solid force in Pro-stock. Many Dallas area racers have machine work, head work, and engines built at R & M. The knowledge and stories from that shop are often the topics of race day conversations.

The story goes that the team was in the last-minute rush to finish a Pro Stock engine and be off the event. So with a late Thursday night, dyno test and Lee said, "hmmm, the power is excellent, but something does not feel right, some vibration I do not normally feel" They cut open, the oil filter looked fine, no metal. They ran the vales, all OK, nothing had changed. So they install the engine, load up and drive to Houston for a Friday morning qualifying run.

At the races, the car ran well, qualified well, and they won the race. But, with each run, Lee would say, "I feel that vibration. It has never done that, and something is not right."

Monday back at the shop, they tore the engine down and discovered the crank was .010 under on the mains with standard bearings. David said the bearings looked new.

Even before that story, I always believed "loose is fast"

Hmm so they raced a BBC with main clearance of .012” or so? That’s just a bridge to far for me, but great story



2005 2000lb 4 link dragster
home brew 582 BBC Dart 355
1.058
2.98
4.629@149
6.094
7.310@185

 
Posts: 12175 | Location: 33463 | Registered: February 04, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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In my TD engine I ran . 003-.0035 rods and . 0035-.004 in the mains with straight 50W, never had issues. 100# oil pressure at the stripe at 82-8400. I did have a pan heater and used it religiously.

Now that I've built two late model Hemis for my bracket car I went with . 0025 on the rods and . 003 on the mains, with 15W-40 oil, 70#@6400 at the stripe, again no issues.....

For me the old .001 per inch of journal diameter works well with steel rods/cast iron block. With aluminum rods/block I always added .0005-.001 more clearance.


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3103 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by "The Bender":
In my TD engine I ran . 003-.0035 rods and . 0035-.004 in the mains with straight 50W, never had issues. 100# oil pressure at the stripe at 82-8400. I did have a pan heater and used it religiously.

Now that I've built two late model Hemis for my bracket car I went with . 0025 on the rods and . 003 on the mains, with 15W-40 oil, 70#@6400 at the stripe, again no issues.....

For me the old .001 per inch of journal diameter works well with steel rods/cast iron block. With aluminum rods/block I always added .0005-.001 more clearance.



Why do you choose to run straight 50 rather than 20-50? I recently installed a pan heater, and have been wondering if I should make the switch now that I have the ability to warm the Oil before starting.
 
Posts: 664 | Location: UTD | Registered: September 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by "The Bender":
In my TD engine I ran . 003-.0035 rods and . 0035-.004 in the mains with straight 50W, never had issues. 100# oil pressure at the stripe at 82-8400. I did have a pan heater and used it religiously.

Now that I've built two late model Hemis for my bracket car I went with . 0025 on the rods and . 003 on the mains, with 15W-40 oil, 70#@6400 at the stripe, again no issues.....

For me the old .001 per inch of journal diameter works well with steel rods/cast iron block. With aluminum rods/block I always added .0005-.001 more clearance.


Me 2, now I run 40w at times as well, bearings are always perfect


J.R. Baxter

""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen."

2024 Miller
Rolla Competition Engines
ProCharger
Hoosier Tires
Abruzzi
 
Posts: 1558 | Location: Waxahachie | Registered: July 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by seabass:
quote:
Originally posted by "The Bender":
In my TD engine I ran . 003-.0035 rods and . 0035-.004 in the mains with straight 50W, never had issues. 100# oil pressure at the stripe at 82-8400. I did have a pan heater and used it religiously.

Now that I've built two late model Hemis for my bracket car I went with . 0025 on the rods and . 003 on the mains, with 15W-40 oil, 70#@6400 at the stripe, again no issues.....

For me the old .001 per inch of journal diameter works well with steel rods/cast iron block. With aluminum rods/block I always added .0005-.001 more clearance.


Me 2, now I run 40w at times as well, bearings are always perfect


Straight 40w? Why not 10-40? Does it have to do with a 1st to 2nd run consistency factor?
 
Posts: 664 | Location: UTD | Registered: September 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 329L
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quote:
Originally posted by Holytown:
quote:
Originally posted by seabass:
quote:
Originally posted by "The Bender":
In my TD engine I ran . 003-.0035 rods and . 0035-.004 in the mains with straight 50W, never had issues. 100# oil pressure at the stripe at 82-8400. I did have a pan heater and used it religiously.

Now that I've built two late model Hemis for my bracket car I went with . 0025 on the rods and . 003 on the mains, with 15W-40 oil, 70#@6400 at the stripe, again no issues.....

For me the old .001 per inch of journal diameter works well with steel rods/cast iron block. With aluminum rods/block I always added .0005-.001 more clearance.


Me 2, now I run 40w at times as well, bearings are always perfect


Straight 40w? Why not 10-40? Does it have to do with a 1st to 2nd run consistency factor?


Boost and methanol is my guess


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 753 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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A local long time Mopar racer here years ago got a crank from Crankshaft specialities ? out of Memphis. They shipped him crank and bearings.
Got it together late Friday afternoon and made a race Saturday and Sunday where he managed to runner up in the 5000.00 race.
His oil pressure kept dropping on the big end which is not normally a Mopar problem. He could rev it up to 2000 or so and it would come back up,
He chased the low pressure problem for 44 passes before he finally pulled the motor and found the problem. .010 crank and standard bearings. He had been running .013 clearance.
 
Posts: 269 | Location: Irving, Texas | Registered: March 24, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of Bill Koski
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Same thing I did, except I made about 60 passes.
I'll wager the bearings looked like new?


TAKE IT TO THE BANK!!!!!
Later, Bill Koski
 
Posts: 11033 | Location: LAS VEGAS. NEVADA, US of A | Registered: December 03, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
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quote:
Originally posted by Holytown:
Why do you choose to run straight 50 rather than 20-50? I recently installed a pan heater, and have been wondering if I should make the switch now that I have the ability to warm the Oil before starting.


Multi viscosity oils were developed to give low temp pour point and flow, and high temp protection. Not really needed in a race engine as long as there is a routine about warm up that's followed. I run a 15w50 only because the first available straight weight oil I have is 60 wt, and I don't need that heavy of an oil....


Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
www.livinthedreamracing.com
"Speed kills but it's better than going slow!"
Authorized Amsoil Retailer
 
Posts: 1561 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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