On my S10 PST I am Currently running Hoosier 18500 C07 33/17/16 stiff sidewall. Advertised roll out is 104. Truck weighs 2500lbs with driver and runs 5.16-low 5.20s depending on conditions.
185 runs on current set, For the most part they have worked well but I have issues getting loose on top end when the track isnt great.

Considering the 18700 C06 which is a softer non stiff wall tire 33.5/17/16 with a advertised 106 inch roll out so slightly taller.

Thoughts on the difference and making the switch.
Don't suggest MT cause that isn't going to happen

I can only talk about the 2 compounds I have ran both in a 30x9 radials. They both worked good for me. I could get about 200 runs out of the C07 & about 150 runs out of the C06. This was when I was NA.

The C30 compound I run now is softer & works great in the heat with the supercharged combo. The Hoosier DOT radial is super soft also & with limited runs seem to work good in the heat also.

Do you have a wicker bill on your wing?

2BKING

Although 1 second slower, I run C05 and do a shorter BO because of how soft these are compared to MT in same 32x14 size. I’d try the C06 just to know how different from C07.

Do you have rear suspension travel sensor/s?

After watching lots of videos of the tires launching and go pro vids of the shocks, I had already convinced myself that this PST and my power level does not need a stiff wall tire.
I stopped by the Hoosier warehouse we have in the DFW area, showed the rep a video, told him what I have and he said what I already had decided, that I do not need a stiff wall tire and its hindering the rear suspension from working properly.
The C06 is in-between the D06 and C07 compounds so its not much softer but defiantly will not last as long as a C07 stiff wall tire will.
My only real concern is the roll out being slightly bigger so will just have to wait and see how it affects the ET.
I am also convinced I would be better off with a 15 wheel instead of a 16 inch wheel for just the fact I would have more tire choices but it is what it is.
Handed over my CC and $1100 later I own a set of 18700 C06 Hoosiers. Next race is next week, hopefully I made the right decision

This is a pretty typical launch for my truck, leaves pretty flat with no real separation in the back no matter how loose I set the extension, hoping the non stiff wall tire will help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6azE8b2M_aQ

I would say someone needs to help the dude in the other lane.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I would say someone needs to help the dude in the other lane.

Thats a bad fast 4.20 dragster, track and air was really cold causing the shake

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:This is a pretty typical launch for my truck, leaves pretty flat with no real separation in the back no matter how loose I set the extension

To get rear separation, moving the AS line setting of the 4 link is needed. Measuring the 4-link points, axle center, WB and crank or camshaft height to determine AS and IC is not difficult even if car is low. I use a combination square while on the floor to measure with. There’s only 4 measurements needed on the floor and the remainder you can do on a lift or with car elevated and wheel removed.

There is free software online that will allow you to determine what your AS and IC are. HERE'S what I use.

If you have Racepak, one rear shock travel sensor like those offered from Low Dollar is an inexpensive tool that can show much. imho video is only great for what the tire/s looks like at launch.

For me, moving my AS multiple times has been an excellent fine tunning tool.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I have issues getting loose on top end when the track isnt great.

I know you have made your choice & I'm hoping it works for you.

I've been looking to install an extension to raise my rear spoiler for more down force down track. If I had a rear wing I would do it with an adjustable wicker bill.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:This is a pretty typical launch for my truck, leaves pretty flat with no real separation in the back no matter how loose I set the extension

To get rear separation, moving the AS line setting of the 4 link is needed. Measuring the 4-link points, axle center, WB and crank or camshaft height to determine AS and IC is not difficult even if car is low. I use a combination square while on the floor to measure with. There’s only 4 measurements needed on the floor and the remainder you can do on a lift or with car elevated and wheel removed.

There is free software online that will allow you to determine what your AS and IC are. HERE'S what I use.

If you have Racepak, one rear shock travel sensor like those offered from Low Dollar is an inexpensive tool that can show much. imho video is only great for what the tire/s looks like at launch.

For me, moving my AS multiple times has been an excellent fine tunning tool.

First thing I was told when I bought this PST from others that have one is take everything you know about setting up a 4 link and toss it out the window.
Problem with these PST is first they have a 125 inch wheelbase, 2nd is they are designed for a SBC and a clutch. When you put in a iron block BBC you instantly add 110lbs to the front and with the BBC being 3.5 inches longer it moves that weight forward and makes it worse. Mine is about 52% on the nose
Multipal owners have said to make them work good with a BBC, you need to take 100lbs off the front and add 100lbs to the rear, an aluminum block is the only real way to lose weight up front and I aint spending $10K at this point in my life on a new block. The other thing that some have done is move the engine back but that involves cutting it up and spending a bunch of money. I have a friend fought his and finally did that and, his works great and he won the TS world title a few years back.
My son has plotted out the whole truck and 4 link in CAD on the computer in multiple configurations, we transfer that to the shop floor and have moved the IC short and low, short and high, long and low, long and high, taking anti squat away and adding it. To be honest, all the changes have made show very little on track differences IMO. Like I was told, throw everything you know about a 4 link out the window.
I have another local that has a Bickel PST, he built a 632 12* motor and installed it wanting to run 4.70s, all's it wanted to do is crash. He took the 632 out and put a big cube SBC in and now it goes straight down the track carrying the front wheels the first 100 feet, go figure lol.
The main constant with mine has been the stiff wall tires, will find out next week if that makes any differance.

2BKING, I just had that wing repainted, no way in hell I am going to drill holes in it for a wicker bill lol. Beside I am pretty sure the sub par track conditions combined with tires is the cause for getting loose in high gear when it has happened

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Big Steve,

Interesting information Steve on what you have and what you’ve tried and changed. Keep us posted on the results as I’m interested in where this is going. Good Luck!