quote:

Originally posted by FTI:


We typically see 5 tenths in et loss and .40 in react. The faster the car the less et loss we see.

Greg

I presume you meant .040 in reaction rather than .4 ?

quote:

Originally posted by FTI:

We currently have a high gear only car that many of us know (Danny Nelson) who has been 6.0's @ 240+ for many runs in high gear only without hurting the unit.

Greg

This is a glide right? What is his 1/8th times and mph?

Be interested to know what components are needed for this.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by NHRA1877:
My car is 3400 with me in it, 10.0 at 133-134, will a car with that weight and power be ok for high gear only with a valve body like the FTI one?

Something nobody has mentioned but a heavier vehicle like that using high gear only, I'd want a modified direct drive clutch hub to have a couple more clutches/steels in it.

Dug up this old thread before I started a new one lol

Answered most of my question, anyone have anything new to add ??? Anyone make the switch this season ?? I'm thinking of trying one.

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by FTI:

We currently have a high gear only car that many of us know (Danny Nelson) who has been 6.0's @ 240+ for many runs in high gear only without hurting the unit.

Greg

This is a glide right? What is his 1/8th times and mph?

Be interested to know what components are needed for this.

Dave

4.0’s at 187-190

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Anyone make the switch this season ?? I'm thinking of trying one.

In a door car or dragster?

quote:

In a door car or dragster?

Door car


What's a dragster

We had one in a 2800lb door car and my dragster in 2019. Both cars were deadly consistent and we only saw temps just over 200 degrees. That was easily managed with a leaf blower and some pvc pipe to cool the trans and converter.

Both cars slowed up right around .5 and minimal mph loss.

Our struggle was inconsistent lights leaving in high and low. We went back to our old pro brakes for 2020 and our lights went back to normal. I plan to buy two more high gear brakes from a different supplier over the winter.

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
We had one in a 2800lb door car and my dragster in 2019. Both cars were deadly consistent and we only saw temps just over 200 degrees. That was easily managed with a leaf blower and some pvc pipe to cool the trans and converter.

Both cars slowed up right around .5 and minimal mph loss.

Our struggle was inconsistent lights leaving in high and low. We went back to our old pro brakes for 2020 and our lights went back to normal. I plan to buy two more high gear brakes from a different supplier over the winter.

That's about right, that's why you leave in low and shift to high tree tenths after trans brake release.

My Nova lost two mph pulling 14 degrees simultaneous to shift.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
We had one in a 2800lb door car and my dragster in 2019. Both cars were deadly consistent and we only saw temps just over 200 degrees. That was easily managed with a leaf blower and some pvc pipe to cool the trans and converter.

Both cars slowed up right around .5 and minimal mph loss.

Our struggle was inconsistent lights leaving in high and low. We went back to our old pro brakes for 2020 and our lights went back to normal. I plan to buy two more high gear brakes from a different supplier over the winter.

That's about right, that's why you leave in low and shift to high tree tenths after trans brake release.

My Nova lost two mph pulling 14 degrees simultaneous to shift.

We struggled with consistent lights leaving in low as well. The brakes I used appear to suffer from internal leakage. I spray tacked the separation plate and used studs. Made five runs with good lights then back to all over the map.

Shifting early could be tough on high gear clutches over time.

I have a couple local tracks that are very sketchy and was wondering if I could set my launch at like 3500 and shift to 3700 instead of changing valve bodies? That way it would shift at the release of the brake. It sounds like it would be really hard on stuff but was told this by a tranny guy.

We're planning on foot braking in high gear, no brake. It's a win/win for us I'm thinking, seem to hover around .030 shallow with a standard brake, high gear valve body is a pro brake so that should be quicker when using low gear.

I'm thinking FTI has the best deal in town ??

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have a couple local tracks that are very sketchy and was wondering if I could set my launch at like 3500 and shift to 3700 instead of changing valve bodies? That way it would shift at the release of the brake. It sounds like it would be really hard on stuff but was told this by a tranny guy.

I made a dozen @3250lbs shifting to high 3 tenths after TB release 750hp sbc in conjunction with very few frictions in high gear drum for 370 Pro Tree racing.

Trust me, you can run it like that Inferno.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SP 124X:
We had one in a 2800lb door car and my dragster in 2019. Both cars were deadly consistent and we only saw temps just over 200 degrees. That was easily managed with a leaf blower and some pvc pipe to cool the trans and converter.

Both cars slowed up right around .5 and minimal mph loss.

Our struggle was inconsistent lights leaving in high and low. We went back to our old pro brakes for 2020 and our lights went back to normal. I plan to buy two more high gear brakes from a different supplier over the winter.

That's about right, that's why you leave in low and shift to high tree tenths after trans brake release.

My Nova lost two mph pulling 14 degrees simultaneous to shift.

We struggled with consistent lights leaving in low as well. The brakes I used appear to suffer from internal leakage. I spray tacked the separation plate and used studs. Made five runs with good lights then back to all over the map.

I run a Coan slow trans brake Super Pro bracket racing and I bought a JW fast brake to do some .370 Pro Tree racing, both are BMF's.

You're up close to Canada, it's a no brainer talk to Hutch, see what he says/recommends you do, according to what brand VB you have. You can't have any fun like that!

3200lb door car, mild small block, mine goes from 6.60’s at 101.5 to 7.30’s at 100mph. I lose .060 rt. It repeats all the same and I have no issue with temps.

I know its not worth a crap when you screw up and wipe out TB lock out then hit dang button some where in middle of run. LOL Driver,crew chief and owner all to blame.