The nice things about R5671A plugs

1. Inexpensive
2. They work and have a lot of heat ranges to pick from
3. You can get the almost everywhere. I get mine from the local NAPA.

I hate gimmicky plugs. NHRA promoting E3 plugs. I highly doubt top fuel is running E3 plugs. With my large dome piston, all my plugs are indexed to keep the piston from hitting the ground strap. Can't do that with a plug that has multiple ground straps.

I have done a lot reading in thepast few days,not sure what is real.th e plug i am using works fine.in all honesty i have used several heat ranges and seen no diff.in my latest reading i am interested in try e3 or similar plugs.i have never believed in gimmick either,but there is some interesting reading on the web(not e3 site).i always test things so that will be next.as far as r5671a- whatever there are conflicting thoughts out there but they work fine and i don't have to pay the gimmick price for them

bringing this thread back because I tried the E3 plugs this past weekend where I have been running the ngk-5671a-8 plugs. they pay contingency so I thought for $40 or so I would try them.

I did notice considerable improvements in starting. but I did notice that my stuff is more sensitive to air changes. meaning where it did take 400 feet or so to move .01 Saturday it looked like 150 to 200 feet would move .01. like is a little fatter with the plug change. so I wonder if I need to lean down a little.

so I was just wondering if anyone else has tried them and what you may have noticed. I as well thought it is a gimmick plug but I did notice a couple of improvements. other than better starts mine has been fat sounding in the water box. with these plugs it is much more crisp and clean in the water. as far as performance it seems to be about the same.

ep-just throwing it out there for discussion sake

^^^^^^ is this with gas or methanol ?

gas. 427 small block. 950 4150 carb with 86 jets. timing at 37 degrees.

i have run this combo for several years and it has been good. and it is really good on the stop. and i get it, why mess with it. just thought i would try the E3 plugs. i will say i did screw up and crossed the E3 plug to a NGK-5671A-9 instead of -8. so the plug i went with is slightly colder. don't know if that is why it is more sensitive to the air.

ep-just picking the brains of smarter people

Leah Pruett or Pritchett, what ever it is says she uses E-3 plugs in her Top Fuel car.

Lol, I am not buying it or believing it.

I get it Curly. I was a little hesitant to bring this up. but hey, you don't know if you don't ask.

ep

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
Leah Pruett or Pritchett, what ever it is says she uses E-3 plugs in her Top Fuel car.

Lol, I am not buying it or believing it.

I can't even get her first name straight. Leah, Leahah. I think I always mess it up.

I don't know anyone that has tried the E3, maybe it's because like me, they also think you don't fix what ain't broken or like me they don't believe E3's claims...

"E3's patented Edge-to-Edge design improves upon the phenomena that caused racers to cut ordinary electrode spark plugs in order to increase the number of sharp edges and improve the spark discharge. Given the short time interval for combustion to occur, engine builders have always known that the faster you can get the flame to the piston from a racing spark plug, the better. Some of our competitor's designs actually get in the way of the flame kernel as it travels toward the combustion area. The E3 DiamondFIRE design is open at the end, so the spark travels directly toward the air-fuel mixture which maximizes the burn. The result is a faster flame kernel, a more complete combustion, greater power and higher fuel efficiency."


these are the same according to the FTC, "deceptive advertising" claims from Spitfire back in the day was ultimately proved false hence the reason they are no more.

Matter of fact, it wouldn't surprise me if the parent company of E3 is the same company that was Splitfire.

I don't believe there is magic in spark plugs that will produce "great power', enough to have us running a tenth quicker or 1 mph faster. I've used Champion, Autolite and NGK in my race engines and of course they all worked but I chose to stay with NGK because they have provided me plugs that are easy to read and last an entire season if I chose without issue. That's all I ask of my plugs.

FYI, I will be trying Denso plugs soon.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Does anyone remember the "fire injectors" from JC Whitney...….

https://www.bing.com/images/se...dIndex=18&ajaxhist=0

Leah Pruett is sponsored by, and receives money from E3. What would you expect her to say, they are expensive and run like crap? Trick of the month, just like the JC Whitney "Fire Injectors"and their "Mini-Supercharger" (a small fan in a spacer between the carburetor and the intake manifold)..... OK, I admit I did buy them back in the '50s, more wasted money. But in my defense so did a well know Pro Stock driver who shall go nameless.

The other question is how do you get them to clear the piston dome in a 15:1 engine? Pull the heads and grind a dish in the piston tops? Like that won't raise other issues, like collapsing the piston in an already thin area.

I'll pass.

I don't see how you can get away with running a non resistor plug in a car with as much electronic equipment as we do today. A non resistor plug might produce a slightly greater spark output but I believe that it would interfere with the on board electronics. Any power gain would be off-set with the rf issues, I'll give up the small power gain to be more consistent.

On the subject of insulator material.

Iridium would be great (if I was trying to run these plugs for a 100,000 miles), but probably not. NGK seems to offer the best value and performance plus they have a wide heat range selection.

My 2 cents.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
I don't see how you can get away with running a non resistor plug in a car with as much electronic equipment as we do today. A non resistor plug might produce a slightly greater spark output but I believe that it would interfere with the on board electronics. Any power gain would be off-set with the rf issues, I'll give up the small power gain to be more consistent.

Bob, I along with everyone I know run a non resistor plug, same non resistor plugs that every national known bracket/sportsman engine builder installs in every engine they build. Never an issue.

Good Morning Ed:

I'm willing to try the non-resistor plugs if you say that they don't create a rf issue. I've been using the resistor type for decades, but I'm willing to change.

Bob

I agree with all statements. but I can say that it is crisper in the water and starts are noticeably better. I know we don't race in the water and starts can be of no concern.

I guess I am looking for help with why it became more sensitive to the air changes. is it the fact the plug is slightly colder. is it the design of the plug. just don't know.

I have not moved from my initial combination outside of the plug change, so going back is no more than screwing the plugs out and putting the NGK back in. before I do that I thought about jetting down some and trying them again to see if it reduces the air sensitivity.

ep-thoughts anyone

and thanks for the honest feedback.

I will say since I have bought them it should work for contingency

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
Leah Pruett or Pritchett, what ever it is says she uses E-3 plugs in her Top Fuel car.

Lol, I am not buying it or believing it.

It would be easy enough to find out. They throw the plugs up on the cage upside down in their holders. I haven't been to a national in quite some time to see if she is.

I do know that E3 plugs are used in some nostalgia fuel engines. Fuel engines will take a strap off a plug in a heartbeat so the larger strap on those could make a difference. I'm no fuel tuner though.

The E3 plugs they are using in the fuel cars are conventional plugs..they are not the gimmick ones...

As to running a non resistor plug, if it affects electronics, then I'm screwed. Actually, your plug wires provide ample protection for the electronics, you don't need a resistor plug in addition to them.

I run NGK mostly, and especially when tuning because they are easy to read, like Ed mentioned. They are also readily available from Rock Auto and are very inexpensive. I do like to make the switch to Autolite racing plugs once my tune up is right, as they seem to last a bit longer....

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Good Morning Ed:

I'm willing to try the non-resistor plugs if you say that they don't create a rf issue. I've been using the resistor type for decades, but I'm willing to change.

Bob

Hey Bob, no issue at all with non resistor plugs. Like many, I run NGK's R5671A-9

I have bounced back and forth between the NGK and Autolite racing plugs and haven't seen a difference ET wise.

years ago I ran Autolite Racing plugs until they would start missing in less than 100 passes. Checked at the time with Tracy Dennis who confirmed he was seeing the same and he made the change to NGK in his builds and I followed his advice.

Personally I believe good resistive plug wires that meter less than 200 ohms per foot, good cap and rotor are most important. After that I want a larger mj output from the ignition and a coil that’ll match it.

The 7720 Grid power module (200 – 220 mj) I use fires these plugs pictured that have 500 runs on them and are still in my spare engine. 388 , 13.5, alky to race and pump gas for pits. My same new engine has over 200 runs now and same NGK R5671A-9 plugs. Runs the same ET numbers as consistently as others. I change these plugs when the engine gets rebuilt.