He said band will burn up in center first if to tight....said a lot depends on age an fatigue like if someone hit brake while rolling thru pits is why it broke most likely which explains while burn up on outer edge..
January 12, 2020, 05:54 PM
rusty
looks like the burning happened after the center broke.what caused it to brake could just be fatigue if it is a stock band that has been relined.if it is a new body chinese steel may be a player.what is that knot on the edge of the brake is it just rolled metal.
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
January 12, 2020, 06:05 PM
Bad News
quote:
Originally posted by coop5140: I checked my shifter linkage, I thought it was 8 but whatever the number , I checked when I got to the track and had to add a half a quart to get it to the full line I didn't take the pressure readings because I felt like the gear set broke because it only went about 10 feet then free wheeled, to the chip, the run before it was about 03 slow. I'm gonna finish taking it apart today to check what servo I have.
"I checked my shifter linkage" With the selector shaft in High, and the shifter in High, did the pin slide right in? Did it repeat in low? Did you check it some other way?
January 12, 2020, 06:06 PM
Mike Rietow
Put a new band in it Coop. There's some nice pieces in that transmission, that's a ringless aerospace shaft. You should have two bushings that act as rings, as in the pump pic I posted.
January 12, 2020, 06:54 PM
TD3550
quote:
Originally posted by rusty: looks like the burning happened after the center broke.what caused it to brake could just be fatigue if it is a stock band that has been relined.if it is a new body chinese steel may be a player.what is that knot on the edge of the brake is it just rolled metal.
It almost looks like a tac weld. I zoomed in to 95%. Looks like the center was broke ahead of time. Never touched the drum. No hazing on the drum or the band material. Inspect that pin also. See if it rolls flatThis message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,
Coop turn the pump over and take a photo. I wanna see if this has a turbo 400 stator tube required for cooler operation with the ringless shaft. I'm looking at the Image I asked you to post of the pump and can't see the two bushings in the stator tube. Hopefully yours is a newer design and someone didn't stick a ringless input shaft in a pump with powerglide stator tube not designed for a ringless input shaft.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
Yeah, that's looks like a 400 turbo stator. Just verify it has two journals on the back side with a hole in the center, inside the tube. That's your cooler for the ringless shaft. They must have a new way of doing these to get away from bushings pressed in the tube, looks good.
Put a band in it, check the pressure. Sonnax supported pin servo kit, it'll come with a proper servo spring. I'd buy a complete kit if I were you.
January 12, 2020, 08:30 PM
Mike Rietow
I'd put a high energy or even a stock band in it. A stock band is a little harsh on a drum but they work great and will give you warning if there's a issue, before quitting typically. Either will work good.
The pin on the shifter cable, it should slide right in the appropriate hole with no issue, in high and low gear on the shifter. If not adjust the cable end to make it happen. Park is not important, low and high are.
January 15, 2020, 07:04 AM
rs72z
Some good info in this thread. I agree it looks like a tack weld on the band where it broke.
January 15, 2020, 08:09 AM
rusty
quote:
Park is not important
lol it is in denver
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
January 15, 2020, 10:27 AM
Mike Rietow
This is a killer transmission the OP bought. Not sure how that band ended up in it, definitely out of place. Get a nice operating band in it and it'll do some service, OP can put another 1000hp to it and not phase it. This is a high horsepower unit. It'll serve well.
