Wrong again mr. mikey.....I can make my car zerox timeslips...done it before and will do it again...and didn't have data acquisition when I did...Stop assuming you know my program. Have I had issues here? Yes...but every racer does with new stuff until they work out the bugs....nothing new here...and I know what they are now...they will get addressed after my move. Did I need help figuring it out? yep, not afraid to admit it either...

I also build my own engines and transmissions....and rear ends, frame repair/chassis upgrades, vehicle wiring, etc.....

You're not special, you're not "all that", and you're certainly no authority on anything. Explain again how you hit the cone at Bradenton and got booted from the track? Explain how you managed to get BANNED FROM YELLOW BULLET?????? A site that it's next to impossible to get banned from?????

Now, show us those zeroxed time slips, with YOUR CAR'S NUMBER on them. Show us the ones where you ran the same run after run after run......WITH YOUR CAR NUMBER ON THEM. Everybody else that says something about et on here and puts timeslips on their posts, HAS THEIR CAR NUMBER ON THEM, except you.....you just cherry pic et and mph info, and cover everything else up...You questioned Ed, yet he posted A TRUE, VALID, AND VERIFIABLE time slip up to prove his claim, something you STILL HAVE NOT DONE....just your cherry picked ones with select info covered up....So what do you have to hide mikey??

So, it's either time to put up or shut up.....one of the two. You post tuning info in every thread, yet have nothing to prove your results or you're right. I don't agree with Ed much or on many things, but at least his **** is proven and he's got the trophies to back it up, just like several other racers on here....What have you done lately????

My daughter would embarrass you on the track with her 1972 Cutlass four door...and she'd be happy to do it....at least she doesn't hit the cones going down track!!!

It's this photo that has all the Lefty's in drag racing triggered.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
So you think my car not being consistent is because of the fuel? Wrong......I know why it isn't...and it's not fuel related.....you should stop assuming things you aren't aware of.....

Funny thing is, EVERYBODY I've talked to that made the switch to, or runs methanol, loves it because it's more consistent in performance than gas....contradictory to what you're saying....but of course, you're the ultimate authority on the subject....along with suspension tuning, transmissions, engine building, etc....still wondering why you aren't running a pro team because of your claimed superior knowledge and lack of need for data acquisition...I'm sure you'd have the fastest, most consistent car in racing, and likely would never loose....

Provided you can avoid the cones of course......

Pretty much everything you say reeks of inexperience with winning drag races IMO. Yeah when according to you, you run a 55 gallon drum of methanol out the header in 5 or 6 runs it's safe to assume you have a fuel problem. Also there a bunch of ways to lose no matter how consistent your car is. For instance you could jump in the second of two 5 granders late out of work, after not racing in a couple years and not know you now need readers to see the delay box well enough to not put the cross in backwards at 4 cars in the semi's, so that claim reeks with inexperience as well.

To get banned from YB it's simple, the owner is a admitted satanist lefty who hates Truth, So all you do is post the photo the rest of the lefty's are triggered about, showing nobody contacted the finish line block.

He'll flip his wig and call ya names because he's triggered on your way out the door changing your screen name. Typical for lefty's, they turn to smear when they can't make a rational argument.

You just keep repeating the Nova plowed the block like he did and Bradenton officials, and I'll keep posting the self evident Evidence of the finish line block sitting on the finish line unmoved behind the cars, as the original call said. In which the station wagon was ruled loser on originally, before officials at Bradenton made up a fantasy story 45 minutes later, to put their house car back in the race, and in the final round after he was already loaded up in the trailer.



This photo could get me banned from here too I'd imagine. Depends on if the owner is a lefty or not. Lefty's don't operate on Evidence, reasoning and justice.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Mr. mikey, talking about stuff he knows nothing about....

You're waaaaaaaaaaaaay to easy....way to easy...

BTW, the cone you hit is the next one in front of the car, about two car lengths ahead of you in that pic......

What effects methonol consistency? Motor temperature (temperatures above 170 work best for us) and water grains...Just my experiences...

Question- back a few post it was mentioned water test for fuel. Can someone explain?

Since when does 1.47 / 1.478 = a thou ?

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
Question- back a few post it was mentioned water test for fuel. Can someone explain?

Alky is very hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. If you are in a humid area, and any time really, it's always a good idea to test to see how much water is in it. You use a hydrometer to do this.

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
Question- back a few post it was mentioned water test for fuel. Can someone explain?

Alky is very hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. If you are in a humid area, and any time really, it's always a good idea to test to see how much water is in it. You use a hydrometer to do this.

fixed it for ya

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
Question- back a few post it was mentioned water test for fuel. Can someone explain?

You can buy all that but the case for this from the company I work for and have about $80 before taxes and shipping.

https://computech.com/product/...anol-hydrometer-kit/

I can tell you this though. I have used Methanol that I got from a friend and he left the cap off a drum for a week. He was afraid to use it. I took it, ran it and couldn't tell any difference what so ever. If it doesn't have to pass a fuel check most times it isn't something I worry about.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick!:

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
Question- back a few post it was mentioned water test for fuel. Can someone explain?

Alky is very hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. If you are in a humid area, and any time really, it's always a good idea to test to see how much water is in it. You use a hydrometer to do this.

fixed it for ya

Thanks, had to announce my departure from my company this morning to the group, spelling was the last thing I was thinking about....

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
What effects methonol consistency? Motor temperature (temperatures above 170 work best for us) and water grains...Just my experiences...

So far I've had my stuff at about 140, 160, and once over 180. It ran best over 180, so gonna change the t stat to a 180......

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
What effects methonol consistency? Motor temperature (temperatures above 170 work best for us) and water grains...Just my experiences...

So far I've had my stuff at about 140, 160, and once over 180. It ran best over 180, so gonna change the t stat to a 180......

My little SBC is much more consistent the hotter it gets. I like 180-185 on the starting line. Was thinking of putting a t-stat in mine when I get back out racing.

This is no data acquisition, analog MSD 7AL ignition like Sleeper 69, the OP.

No need to be intimidated by data acquisition or ignition gizmo's sleeper 69. You have everything you need.

165 starting line temp.

If you were starting to round robin in late rounds like we do locally the transmission temp can definitely cause this exact issue. 170-175* starting line temp here.
I will also have this issue if I try to run my Hoosier tires instead of my MT's. I keep hoping the car will like the Hoosiers because I can get them much cheaper and they can actually make 2 the same diameter which MT seems to struggle with. But my car flat works better and is way more consistent with the Mickeys. Going to try Goodyears next.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
What effects methonol consistency? Motor temperature (temperatures above 170 work best for us) and water grains...Just my experiences...

So far I've had my stuff at about 140, 160, and once over 180. It ran best over 180, so gonna change the t stat to a 180......

My little SBC is much more consistent the hotter it gets. I like 180-185 on the starting line. Was thinking of putting a t-stat in mine when I get back out racing.

I do run a Thermostat in my car. I have a 180* but I did put 3 or 4 holes about 1/8 inch in there to help get rid of air bubbles and to allow it to always move some water. I also have a Thermostat on my fan and I set it around 185* so if anyone is playing starting line games I just flip on fan and let them act stupid.
I turn off fan and toggle water pump off and on to build heat and evaporate water out of oil at end of the night.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
What effects methonol consistency? Motor temperature (temperatures above 170 work best for us) and water grains...Just my experiences...

So far I've had my stuff at about 140, 160, and once over 180. It ran best over 180, so gonna change the t stat to a 180......

My little SBC is much more consistent the hotter it gets. I like 180-185 on the starting line. Was thinking of putting a t-stat in mine when I get back out racing.

I do run a Thermostat in my car. I have a 180* but I did put 3 or 4 holes about 1/8 inch in there to help get rid of air bubbles and to allow it to always move some water. I also have a Thermostat on my fan and I set it around 185* so if anyone is playing starting line games I just flip on fan and let them act stupid.
I turn off fan and toggle water pump off and on to build heat and evaporate water out of oil at end of the night.

I currently just have a gutted t-stat to slow the water down. I recently added -4 hoses from the back on the intake to the t-stat housing. That would keep water moving with the pump on.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro: I keep hoping the car will like the Hoosiers because I can get them much cheaper and they can actually make 2 the same diameter which MT seems to struggle with. But my car flat works better and is way more consistent with the Mickeys. Going to try Goodyears next.

When ordering tires, consider calling CHRIS BARKER for them. Besides the Great price and fast delivery, mine have always been matched correctly and the recent MT were 1/4 different when mounted.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro: I keep hoping the car will like the Hoosiers because I can get them much cheaper and they can actually make 2 the same diameter which MT seems to struggle with. But my car flat works better and is way more consistent with the Mickeys. Going to try Goodyears next.

When ordering tires, consider calling CHRIS BARKER for them. Besides the Great price and fast delivery, mine have always been matched correctly and the recent MT were 1/4 different when mounted.

That is where I got them, they were both marked 105 and 1 was 105 1/4 the other was 106. Chris was great to work with but Mickey needs to do something better with quality control. The last pair took 4 sets to get a set that was with in 1/4". Been fighting it the last 2+ years.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:That is where I got them, they were both marked 105 and 1 was 105 1/4 the other was 106. Chris was great to work with but Mickey needs to do something better with quality control. The last pair took 4 sets to get a set that was with in 1/4". Been fighting it the last 2+ years.

Have you tried shrinking the larger tire RO that was discussed in a forum here?