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Which powerglide input shaft is unusable, and why?
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The only reason we have both a ringed input and pump, and a ringless input and pump for the 66 Chevy II, is to optimize performance. We won't know which setup will be permanent at this point. It'll depend how the converter prefers exhausted, for performance.

The pressure and incremental times on the time slip, will determine.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
The only reason we have both a ringed input and pump, and a ringless input and pump for the 66 Chevy II, is to optimize performance. We won't know which setup will be permanent at this point. It'll depend how the converter prefers exhausted, for performance.

The pressure and incremental times on the time slip, will determine.


I promise you will have better results with a ringed shaft than a non ring shaft. The unit will run cooler, and be more efficient. Todays vasco, and "NASA" shafts, with rings, are far better than they used to be.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 696 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by 329L:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
The only reason we have both a ringed input and pump, and a ringless input and pump for the 66 Chevy II, is to optimize performance. We won't know which setup will be permanent at this point. It'll depend how the converter prefers exhausted, for performance.

The pressure and incremental times on the time slip, will determine.


I promise you will have better results with a ringed shaft than a non ring shaft. The unit will run cooler, and be more efficient. Todays vasco, and "NASA" shafts, with rings, are far better than they used to be.


No sir it'll be the ringed shaft if the converter performs better slipping 7- 8% at the stripe, with the lower numerical final gear we have.

Ringless, if the converter performs better slipping 5%, with the higher numerical final gear we have.
 
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DRR Sportsman
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In mine, and the guys transmissions I build for, have found that there is more efficiency and cooling with a ringed shaft. Now if you are setup for a ring shaft, and switch to a ring less shaft, the converter is going to lose efficiency, stall rpm is going to go up. The transmissions I have built with ring less had correct shaft and pump. What I have also found is that a ringless shaft needs higher line pressure to be efficient. My opinion is that you seal up the hydraulics of trans, and you dont NEED to run super high line pressures, which is what is harder on parts.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 696 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Damn, not good, who's pump and input? Any photo's?
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This is with a ringless input and pump, like I've posted in here. This with line pressure on the low side, in accordance to the power in play.

Converter slipped 8% here, not 6%. The guy noted slip incorrect.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
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Actually I take that back 329L, the converter was slipping 6% ^^^^, it was the finish line rpm which was noted on the time slip incorrectly, it crossed 7,813 rpm's, not 7,613 and the converter was slipping 6%.

We haven't experienced what you've described 329L. I'd be curious which design/brand ringless you were using?

This is the slip the round before which told me it was the rpm which was noted incorrectly. We'll be crossing 8500 rpms with our new powerplant around 138 mph, I'm anticipating the converter slips less than 5% with the ringless input.

 
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DRR Sportsman
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All of them. BTE/Trans Specialties 7 bolt, Coan/ATI 5 bolt, and pro mod pump and Reid 7 bolt with proper shaft. Do you happen to know what each transmission makes pressure wise, verified with a guage?


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 696 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by 329L:
All of them. BTE/Trans Specialties 7 bolt, Coan/ATI 5 bolt, and pro mod pump and Reid 7 bolt with proper shaft. Do you happen to know what each transmission makes pressure wise, verified with a guage?


Yes, I know exactly all pressures at every possible port to read pressure pertinent to drag racing performance.

I don't wanna give out all my secrets for running exceptionally, but what would you consider low pressure for 1000 - 1050hp at 3000 pds?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
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Whatever is universally considered low pressure for 1000 - 1050 hp @ 3000 lbs, this transmission has less than that. Lets put it that way.

So in other words we're seeing the opposite, when it comes to TSI aerospace .935 ringless input shafts. We're seeing high pressure at the cooler in conjunction with low line pressure.

 
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DRR Sportsman
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Ive made 200 psi work in your application. And as far secrets, that's a 60 year old transmission, most people know all the secrets already.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 696 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by 329L:
Ive made 200 psi work in your application. And as far secrets, that's a 60 year old transmission, most people know all the secrets already.


The emphasis of the point I made, was pressure is low. I'm sure there are a few to many, who know-take the same approach I do, but not everyone LoL.

The only thing I can think of to help your cause is oversized bushings hand fitted snug to the input. It's the only thing I can think of, in which I'm doing different from you.
 
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There is one more thing you could try, but I'm gonna skip it because it wouldn't be fair to those who've figured it out, if I said it here. It's in these pages though if you dig deep enough.

I think mostly it's hand fitting the bushings to the input shaft snug though, is the difference in results.
 
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