quote:

Originally posted by VORTECPRO:
I run a 1985 Camaro with a 350 with flat top hyperutectic pistons and a hyd roller 500/224/230/110. The heads are L98 Corvette heads with a dual plane intake and a 850 Holley. I run a Turbo 350 with 4.56 gears and a 29.5 rear tire. I'm looking for ideas on how to make it run quicker, with the parts I have, tuning tips and mild changes. I was thinking about trying a 1.6 rocker on the intake.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Why not 1.6 on both? I guess depends on what you call mild. You could have the heads cut for more compression, that's not a big deal. I would think a little smaller carb would be quicker. I know my 388 was quicker when I had the 775 sleeves in than it is at 975. Put it on alcohol, that will wake it up.

Put the car on a diet. Just throwing some stuff on whe wall.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
What does it run now? 60' times? What suspension? Carb is big, how is it jetted?
Before trying the rocker be sure to check valve to piston clearance and retainer to guide clearance.

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Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by VORTECPRO:
I run a 1985 Camaro with a 350 with flat top hyperutectic pistons and a hyd roller 500/224/230/110. The heads are L98 Corvette heads with a dual plane intake and a 850 Holley. I run a Turbo 350 with 4.56 gears and a 29.5 rear tire. I'm looking for ideas on how to make it run quicker, with the parts I have, tuning tips and mild changes. I was thinking about trying a 1.6 rocker on the intake.

Carb is too big, in my opinion.

I have a pair of those heads on a stock 350, with the Air Gap intake and a 750.
The heads were ported at Gianino's shop in 1986, and run within a tenth or so of a pair of Track 1's, on a small cam 406.
1.6 rockers is kind of an expensive experiment, since they use the self aligning rockers, but probably worth it anyway. I have them.

I'm thinking that might be a bit much rear gear?, your cam is probably done at the 5800-6200 range.

Torque converter is probably one place to concentrate on.

Timing locked in at full advance?

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Originally posted by Brktracer:
Torque converter and alcohol.

My guess is 1.6 rocker does nothing.

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Originally posted by B KING:
It's a "Low Buck 350 Bracket Build"! Make it consistent, efficient & bracket race the damn vehicle. There are more important things to focus on bracket racing than going quicker!

2BKING

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Originally posted by B KING:
Yeppers! I built it to chase in the class. I could go faster, but it would be detrimental to the consistency of my program. The few cars that do chase me, it's easy for me to judge their closing rate & drive the stripe.

Now, if I had a car like the OP. I would do as stated & find a class that best suits the cars ET & the drivers' skills.

2BKING

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Guessing because I don't have a tach

quote:

Originally posted by VORTECPRO:

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
What does it run now? 60' times? What suspension? Carb is big, how is it jetted?
Before trying the rocker be sure to check valve to piston clearance and retainer to guide clearance.

Were good on both guide and PV, 224 @ .050 cam. I don't remember the jets but I did dial it in at the track. Suspension is factory type TQ arm with Viking shocks on the rear. 60 foot so far is 1.43 best, but I hope to improve on that when it cools down.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
Torque converter is critical in performance. In my opinion if you have enough rear gear and enough stall you can not get too big of a carb.

Years ago (1991?) I did a test on my Camaro, at that time had a worn out LT-1 350 probably making 325 Hp? Had a 4.88 rear gear and 29.5 x 10.50 slicks with 5500 stall. Holley books and other information said that motor would be best with around 425 CFM carb. I set up a 650, 750 and an 850 CFM carb and tested them all same day. Started the test with 650 carb and do not remember exactly what it ran but it was say around 8.20 in the 1/8 mile. Then I put the 750 on there and it ran around 7.90 and put the 850 on there and I think it was about 7.70. Put the 650 back on there and it ran same as first pass around 8.20. That was a worn out, very low horsepower deal but I had rear gear and stall and bigger carb ran much better. Now Holley books said it needed around 425 CFM and that may be true with a 3.08 rear gear and 1800 Stall but car would be a dog. I think that same combination was 7.20 on alcohol 850 carb.

If I was you I would probably look into better stall converter. On a stall converter in race car it is almost always better to error on loose side than too tight. Car will be faster and more consistent if it is loose (As long as you are not completely blowing through converter)

1.6 rockers will not hurt anything and a single plane intake may help you a little more. Also you probably do not need 37* timing. Probably get same or better performance at 32* and easier on parts and more forgiving tune up.



I would definitely run alcohol like Curtis said, you will pick up about .4 to .5 in 1/8 mile and not have to worry about heat in motor. In fact on Alcohol you can also go to smaller Radiator, water pump and hoses saving more weight and that helps even more.

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Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Guessing because I don't have a tach

I picked up 4 tenths when I put a tach in my car.
12.20's to 11.80's, no other changes, just shift point.

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Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Quick question, is the car street driven, or track only?
And what does that converter stall at?

Whether you are wanting to be competitive at bracket racing, or just want to maximize the car's potential, Dave / Goob is right. Get yourself a tach. Even a basic one. It will let you be be more consistent by hitting the same shift points, and it will let you shift at the optimum RPM to run your quickest.

I agree with most of the other suggestions, other than smaller carb. If you have the gear and converter, I am more in line with Bruce / Curly's thinking.

If it is a track only car, methanol will pick up some ET & MPH. And assuming your exhaust is free flowing / open, more cam would probably help a lot, as would more compression. If milling the heads is not an option, call a few of the cam companies and ask for recommendations based on your combo. There are grinds that will increase the dynamic compression, ("fooling the engine" into performing like it has more static compression).