DRR S/Pro
| Chad, where are you?????? This racer needs expert advice!!!! |
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DRR Elite
| I have welded pinch t1’s Run well But it seems like there are better modern choices. Heck even raised runner or 18 degree
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
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DRR S/Pro
| ^^^^^^ If you can justify/ afford shaft rockers they’re really nice. Curly said in another post the Crower SS he has are his favorite and I agree. I just bought a second set of Crower to match the ones I have on Brodix DS heads. |
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DRR S/Pro
| The valve train in a pushrod engine is a weak link by design. Shaft rockers would bring you into today's technology and be a big step up in performance and durability. That's the path GM took with their LS/LT engine families. I'm certain you'd be satisfied but I'm kinda spending your money here. Your call of course.
Illegitimi non carborundum
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| | | Posts: 2493 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008 | 
IP
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DRR Pro
| A correction, the original Brodix Track 1 heads do not require shaft rockers. Brodix does produce some 23* heads with offset valves, which require shaft rockers. [Check the Brodix website for these details.] It is correct that shaft rockers are a nice upgrade. I have built some engines with them and am always impressed by how they hold the adjustment over time. Yet, I have also built many SBC engines with 7/16 stud rockers, stud girdle, and the proper length pushrods that hold the adjustment well. This is by far the most common, having won many, many, many, many races with excellent durability. Also, the Brodix Dragon Slayer head is an economical, out-of-the-box excellent performer. The fellows at Brodix tell me they fully ported a 23* head, and copied it in an as-cast version. This is the Dragon Slayer.
Larry Woodfin
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| | | Posts: 2053 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004 |
IP
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DRR S/Pro
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| | | Posts: 3575 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007 |
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DRR S/Pro
| quote: Originally posted by Little Chief:
I have priced both T&D & Jesel sportsman aluminum shaft rockers. The T&D are about 450.00
more than the Jesel for my sbc. Are they really worth the extra expense?
Consider checking Crower for pricing on SS shafts. Excellent quality. |
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DRR Pro
| quote: Originally posted by Little Chief:
I have priced both T&D & Jesel sportsman aluminum shaft rockers. The T&D are about 450.00
more than the Jesel for my sbc. Are they really worth the extra expense?
I've only ran T & D and not Jesel. I see no reason not to run the Jesel at the cheaper price. 2BKING  
1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3100 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
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DRR S/Pro
| Here’s the two items I did not like with the Jesel sportsman shaft aluminum kit I had for sbc. The stands are not notched for standard cap type head bolts. Jesel provides four flat head bolts that go underneath the rocker stands on each head. Jesel won’t service these sportsman rockers if they are over 10 yrs old and the dates are marked on the side of the rockers. |
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DRR Top Comp
| quote: Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
A correction, the original Brodix Track 1 heads do not require shaft rockers. Brodix does produce some 23* heads with offset valves, which require shaft rockers. [Check the Brodix website for these details.]
It is correct that shaft rockers are a nice upgrade. I have built some engines with them and am always impressed by how they hold the adjustment over time.
Yet, I have also built many SBC engines with 7/16 stud rockers, stud girdle, and the proper length pushrods that hold the adjustment well. This is by far the most common, having won many, many, many, many races with excellent durability.
Also, the Brodix Dragon Slayer head is an economical, out-of-the-box excellent performer. The fellows at Brodix tell me they fully ported a 23* head, and copied it in an as-cast version. This is the Dragon Slayer.
If you have offset valves may also require piston change or valve cutting. Yes, shaft rockers are a good upgrade and I do think Crower is probably the best. I have used all of the big name brands. Have not tried any of the cheap ones though tempted as I have a pro street type car I only use a few times a year for cruising. Someone had a set of the cheap shafts and the shaft itself was cast and not billet or forged and they broke real easy. Total junk but do not remember what brand they were. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/"Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion |
| | | Posts: 4637 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011 |
IP
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DRR Pro
| I'm still on the fence whether to have my vintage Track 1's repaired, or just buy a new pair. ? Retainer failure. Do I trust that the original valves will go another 1000 + runs? Considering the pair I have need one cylinder repaired, will the rest of the seats be okay? Have they improved anything that makes that the way to go?
"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
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