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DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David_D.:
Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.

The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.

I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.

Thanks again for the feedback!



David, I have a couple things to suggest to you about this...
1st : I understand you're trying to repair the starter do to cost, stubbornness, fun to fix things whatever your reason is, it's your business, nobody else's. BUT, even if you do get it working again I would put that starter in the trailer for a spare and buy a new one...
2nd : I had a starter/alternator rebuilder renting one of my shops a while back and they used to bench test the starters by shoving a 1"x1" square stick into the drive gear as hard as they could while spinning it. Chewed the heII out of the sticks but it sure did put a load on the starter !! lol


.
Dave



F J B

Wake me when it's over
 
Posts: 4010 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David_D.:
Tested voltage while cranking and it went from 11.66 at the battery to 10.38 at the starter.

The battery was wired on the car years ago with standard 2 AWG battery cable, so I'm going to re-wire with 1/0 fine strand welding cable to help, but that being said, I still don't think the starter is working correctly.

I put my spare on and it cranks great! I'll order a new drive/clutch.

Thanks again for the feedback!

I honestly don’t think it’s the five, think about it the drive is just a one way clutch that spins, the solenoid is what pushes the drive I and out. There is an arm going from solenoid to behind the drive that pushes it out, the drive is just along for the ride as far as going in and out. If the drive is going bad it usually makes a grinding sound like it’s eating teeth off the flexplate. I have fixed many myself.
 
Posts: 2554 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of inferno camaro
posted Hide Post
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly
 
Posts: 263 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.
 
Posts: 2554 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
posted Hide Post
I'm just over here using the same old GM high torque starters for 40 years. Genuine GM bolts and the proper back brace.
1 sketchy day at the races starter related.


I know, lots of oil pans, headers, and chassis limitations that make the GM stuff impossible to use. But if you have the room..... Delco 323-255


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1131 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of inferno camaro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by green1:
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.


A shim was removed from between the aluminum mounting block and the starter body. There was a shim in the snout as well and it wasn't removed. When you tighten it all back up the extra shim in the snout was smashing against the clutch assembly and ruined it.
 
Posts: 263 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
quote:
Originally posted by green1:
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I had one doing this exact thing. The shim had been removed between the mounting plate and the starter but not from the nose. It hurt the starter drive. I could grab the starter gear and would not free spin backwards (the one way clutch or bendix was seized) I replaced it and works perfect. Just grab the starter gear and see if it will spin backwards with your fingers. If not this could be your issue.
This was what I changed to fix mine.
Part # 255602
Powermaster 602 Starter Clutch Assembly

I don’t know how chiming has anything to do with the drive assembly sprag but if that worked for you as a repair good for you.


A shim was removed from between the aluminum mounting block and the starter body. There was a shim in the snout as well and it wasn't removed. When you tighten it all back up the extra shim in the snout was smashing against the clutch assembly and ruined it.

I am fully aware of how it goes together and would think you would break something else before it hurt the sprag in the drive. I have actually tore the drive completely apart before with the curiosity of how it worked, it was ruined when done but now I know exactly what’s in there.
 
Posts: 2554 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of David_D.
posted Hide Post
A little update. Ordered a drive from HOP. Put the starter back on and it’s doing the same thing. There’s either something electrically wrong in the starter or the new solenoid is defective. The trusty backup is back on the car and working flawlessly.


David Deming
1974 Chevy Nova Custom Hatchback
Horsepower Innovations E85 Carb
 
Posts: 321 | Location: Nampa, ID | Registered: October 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
7 days ago I advised…

quote:
Originally posted September 24, 2022 08:41 AM by 1320racer:
Buy a new Tilton or HOP starter and while you’re at it a spare drive and solenoid, both of which are in my trailer along with a spare starter.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 11580 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
7 days ago I advised…

quote:
Originally posted September 24, 2022 08:41 AM by 1320racer:
Buy a new Tilton or HOP starter and while you’re at it a spare drive and solenoid, both of which are in my trailer along with a spare starter.


X2 Remove that perfectly good new drive and throw what you attached it to in the junk pile. A new HOP starter would be my choice.

Or you could throw more money at it and order a solenoid. Could be the problem.
 
Posts: 1887 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
markemark...KNOWS!


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 11580 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
posted Hide Post
Yup
 
Posts: 1921 | Location: On the the dark side now | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David_D.:
A little update. Ordered a drive from HOP. Put the starter back on and it’s doing the same thing. There’s either something electrically wrong in the starter or the new solenoid is defective. The trusty backup is back on the car and working flawlessly.

Well I knew the drive wasn’t gonna fix it. Solenoid is what pulls the bendix in and out so either solenoid, or voltage is dropping or something is wrong with the arm that pushes out the bendix.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: green1,
 
Posts: 2554 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
Who knew that a guy who repairs junk water pumps with Chinese parts would be the smartest guy on this forum, just ask him and he’ll tell you. Laughing very hard WhatEver

Meanwhile, most that replied here felt it was the drive assembly based on the info and video supplied.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 11580 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
Who knew that a guy who repairs junk water pumps with Chinese parts would be the smartest guy on this forum, just ask him and he’ll tell you. Laughing very hard WhatEver

Meanwhile, most that replied here felt it was the drive assembly based on the info and video supplied.

When a valve does not open properly and the valve isn’t bent do you replace the valve first?
And by the way I use the only parts that can be bought to repair the pump wherever they are made but then you know your waterpump has Chinese bearings in it unless you tore it apart and changed them but I know you didn’t do that.
 
Posts: 2554 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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