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Hippo lifters mixed with regular.
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DRR S/Pro
Picture of banjo
posted
My buddy hurt a lifter in his car. He has regular roller lifters in his sbc. I have an old set of crowler hippo lifters. Would it be a problem to intermixed, or would he be better off to swapp then all.

Thanks


Bill Simpkins
74 Nova
SBC 406
3240 pounds
Speierracing heads

60 1.27 (10/16)
1/8 6.03@111 (10/16)
Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013


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Posts: 1837 | Location: San Angelo | Registered: March 07, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I’m not an engine doctor or anything, but I can’t imagine what the problem would be.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3262 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD3550
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Swap them all. Could have different oil band locations and different cup heights. Last but not least run a quick geometry check. Bore check also.

Possible reason for failure???
 
Posts: 1422 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm with Lenny on this one. Checking cup height/pushrod length is a valid suggestion as well.


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Posts: 2386 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
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If you're trying to make next round, swap the pair and go race. Hope that nothing happens. If you have the time, swap them all to be safe....however, having an extra set of lifters at the track is not a bad idea.....I carry a set all the time....


Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
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Posts: 1562 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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If possible I would replace them all, if you had some go bad others may be right behind it.


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Posts: 4352 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of banjo
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He is still debating on what to do, but I told them that he should change them all out and check all the valve train geometry. He is try

He had broke a stud and the pushrod beat up the lifter.

Question, has anyone ever hear that you don't have to use Poly locks with a stud girdle? This is what his builder told him, even though the motor came with polylocks, and the stud girdle.


Bill Simpkins
74 Nova
SBC 406
3240 pounds
Speierracing heads

60 1.27 (10/16)
1/8 6.03@111 (10/16)
Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013


nova

quarterpanelview

wheelie

FTI Converter
www.speierracingheads.com

 
Posts: 1837 | Location: San Angelo | Registered: March 07, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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i thought the stud girdle attatched to the poly locks


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Posts: 1474 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I’ve heard of people not using the hex set screw in the center of the polylocks when using a stud girdle. I would never trust it to hold like that.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3262 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve heard of people not using the hex set screw in the center of the polylocks when using a stud girdle. I would never trust it to hold like that.


Agreed x100. Why? Makes zero sense. A little double assurance is wise. They serve two different purposes. Girdle for stiffness, lock for securing the setting. The fact that the girdle holds the lock is just a secondary benefit. I wouldn't roll like that but to each his own.


BG
 
Posts: 760 | Location: Florence, SC | Registered: August 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by banjo:
He is still debating on what to do, but I told them that he should change them all out and check all the valve train geometry. He is try

He had broke a stud and the pushrod beat up the lifter.

Question, has anyone ever hear that you don't have to use Poly locks with a stud girdle? This is what his builder told him, even though the motor came with polylocks, and the stud girdle.


If your wise solid roller camshaft, you inspect lash often.

If your wise solid roller camshaft no poly locks, you inspect & correct lash more often.

If you're correcting lash more often, no poly lock, it stands to reason no poly lock scenario, is slightly harder on the lifter itself.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of banjo
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Sorry, I am referring to the set screw. Unless he misunderstood, they told him to take the screw out. Engine came with them. I agree, that doesn't make sense to me either.

This may explain some of the issues he has had

I know for me, every race engine that I have will have shaft rockers on there. In my experience lash doesn't move unless there is an issue.

He has decided against using my lifters and order a set of new lifters and will make sure everything is right.


Bill Simpkins
74 Nova
SBC 406
3240 pounds
Speierracing heads

60 1.27 (10/16)
1/8 6.03@111 (10/16)
Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013


nova

quarterpanelview

wheelie

FTI Converter
www.speierracingheads.com

 
Posts: 1837 | Location: San Angelo | Registered: March 07, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by BG7X77:
quote:
Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve heard of people not using the hex set screw in the center of the polylocks when using a stud girdle. I would never trust it to hold like that.


Agreed x100. Why? Makes zero sense. A little double assurance is wise. They serve two different purposes. Girdle for stiffness, lock for securing the setting. The fact that the girdle holds the lock is just a secondary benefit. I wouldn't roll like that but to each his own.


On one of our engines we made our own girdle and nuts back in the '90s. They are just slotted on top and don't use the set screw in the middle. Never did moved. That engine has been sitting a while but they are still on it and I wouldn't be afraid of taking it out today and running it. Maybe we are just lucky??



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Posts: 3189 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
quote:
Originally posted by BG7X77:
quote:
Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve heard of people not using the hex set screw in the center of the polylocks when using a stud girdle. I would never trust it to hold like that.


Agreed x100. Why? Makes zero sense. A little double assurance is wise. They serve two different purposes. Girdle for stiffness, lock for securing the setting. The fact that the girdle holds the lock is just a secondary benefit. I wouldn't roll like that but to each his own.


On one of our engines we made our own girdle and nuts back in the '90s. They are just slotted on top and don't use the set screw in the middle. Never did moved. That engine has been sitting a while but they are still on it and I wouldn't be afraid of taking it out today and running it. Maybe we are just lucky??


No I absolutely think it would work. My argument is if you can have double assurance take it. That's all.


BG
 
Posts: 760 | Location: Florence, SC | Registered: August 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
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DON’T take the set screw out!!

Cost me a race, rocker was backing off a little each run. I knew something was wrong but they were calling us back up real quick cause the weather was coming in. I kept dialing up but it bit me in the final. Ran my good friend Craig and had him on the tree but couldn’t quite get there.


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Posts: 5338 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by BG7X77:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
quote:
Originally posted by BG7X77:
quote:
Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve heard of people not using the hex set screw in the center of the polylocks when using a stud girdle. I would never trust it to hold like that.


Agreed x100. Why? Makes zero sense. A little double assurance is wise. They serve two different purposes. Girdle for stiffness, lock for securing the setting. The fact that the girdle holds the lock is just a secondary benefit. I wouldn't roll like that but to each his own.


On one of our engines we made our own girdle and nuts back in the '90s. They are just slotted on top and don't use the set screw in the middle. Never did moved. That engine has been sitting a while but they are still on it and I wouldn't be afraid of taking it out today and running it. Maybe we are just lucky??


No I absolutely think it would work. My argument is if you can have double assurance take it. That's all.


I can't really disagree with ya. Just posted as an example is all I guess.



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Posts: 3189 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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It's all good. Nice when a conversation can actually occur on here.....

Good luck! Stay safe!


BG
 
Posts: 760 | Location: Florence, SC | Registered: August 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Old school (80's ish) moroso stud girdles didn't have set screws in the rocker arm nuts. They had slots for a big flat-head screw driver. Ran a set on our 468 for years, never an issue. The bar was gold, only 1 piece for both intake and exhaust, and U-bolts to go around the tops of the rocker arm nuts one set bolted through the intake side, the other set through the exhaust side. U-bolts were 5/16", black, fine thread, with nylon locking nuts.
 
Posts: 431 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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^^^^^^ Jomar girdle. It’s designed that way.

Do not take the allen set screws out of the adjustment nuts on the other style.


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Posts: 5338 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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