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DRR Sportsman |
It's not the transmission. Normal spline slop alone can cause a small rocking, which can distract you on a pro tree. When I set the button, I don't want any movement at all. I've run line locks in both cars for YEARS with a separate reverse switch and a relay. Line lock goes through the normally closed contacts when staging, open relay allows normal reverse. I don't hard pump the brakes, so I've never seen any reaction time issue. If you've never tried it, how are you qualified to make declarative statements about that which you are ignorant of?? RIP It's a dangerous time in America. The communists are inside the gates. Our survival is not guaranteed. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Big difference between rocking and settling in due to driveline slop/backlash when the button is pushed | |||
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DRR Elite |
Trans is out of my car. Does it rock forward? Yep consistently about 1/4". I like to flicker the second bulb, push the button, and let go of the foot brake. That generally turns the second bulb on full. I can see advantages either way. I have always had consistent lights, so not really inclined to change. Honestly release of brake pressure and relying on the line lock to do so consistently concerns me a little. But I also get why they would be used. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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DRR Pro |
Had a built ATI glide, nothing but going up on RPM before setting the brake would keep it from a little rocking. Ended up putting in the bandaid, have a K&R box so wiring was simple but I put a toggle switch in. As I came up to stage, I would turn on the linelock - make my run and on the return road turn it back off. It did work. Later I started building my own glides, linelock is still in the car but I don't need it anymore and I can stage at idle. | |||
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DRR Elite |
yep as a bandaid for a trans that does not work as it should. | |||
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