Anyone install these in a wrap-around installation? The crotch belt has two lengths of belt coming from the latch. I'm struggling trying to understand how to install these in a dragster. On something else, maybe you could spread those two belts and have a 6-point deal? I don't have that kind of room available with the way the seat is cut - Racetech Dragster.
You have a six point setup you need a five point setup
What number? I run the 9211CPL (Wrap). The bottom crotch is meant to be installed as paired with the hardware you received. It is tight working with the hardware. Do you have a mount point (Bracket)
on the cross bar with the 3.5-4" bolt?This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,
I use the hot knife attachment on my butane soldering iron to cut the 6th strap off so it’s a normal 5 point. Cut the bottom one so the SFI tag stays.
Ahh - that makes a bit more sense now. I don't remember there being two different part numbers when I ordered them so I'll just cut that second strap off too.
No bolts or mounting tabs, all of mine wrap a pipe.
I do the same.
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
"Speed kills but it's better than going slow!"
Authorized Amsoil Retailer
The bar support for the bottom of the seat is also where the belt wraps. The seat has a cutout for the strap to come through and with the older style of having the camlock on one of the side belts I didn't have any issues. This deal is a pita, I get the belt tight enough to fit and the hardware piece wants to crush the seat.
Same here to an extent. I don't cut one off but fight with it through the supplied bracket. I just don't care for wacking off one of the straps for security reasons. Ya it's about 4 beers after I'm done.. "NOT AGAIN" lol. next month....
Same for me. What I usually do is try not to move the old adjuster/hardware piece when I take it off that way the new one is close. Then I set it all up without putting the webbing through a third time to lock it. Then I hop in and make sure I like the length of the crotch strap and make sure the hardware piece isn’t rubbing on anything. After all that I pull the webbing through the third time then cut off most of the excess.
If you don’t lock the webbing by going through the third time you can pretty easily wiggle the webbing back and forth to adjust the hardware piece position without changing the tightness of the belts.
TD3550 I just got Pro 1 belts to try for my car and they only one with one 2” submarine belt so I wouldn’t be too worried about cutting off the second 3” strap on the platinums. Hey it’s a dragster, seat belts should be a one beer job!
LOL. Well on a "good day" Seldom...it's a 2 beer job. If the **** phone don't ring. And there is the CRS syndrome.
I have tried that but I have lost so much weight that there's little room between the bottom of the seat/bar and where I like the camlock to sit. If I move the camlock up a bit I get some space between the hardware piece and the bar but then it's too loose and/or sitting higher on me that I want it. I know they moved the camlocks to the crotch belt to make people wear them but this is pissin' me off.
I think i understand what you are saying now. The fitment length of the crotch belt/cam lock sits too high than what you are use to. Where you actually feel more freedom of movement in the waist/crotch area?. If i get to the shop tomorrow,
I'll get some pics. What was the prior seat belt number?
They were a Summit brand but had the camlock on the waist belt. I finally got the RCI in but it's more like a 6-pack job if you ask me.
I also just spoke with Summit about getting the old set re-certified and they do not offer that service. I'm not sure who makes them for Summit but I liked the hardware and belt material a lot more than these RCI ones - I don't think I'll buy another set of these. This hardware is just a plain finish and getting the connections into the camlock takes some effort. My old ones are nicely polished and just slid and snapped into the camlock easily.
|Powered by Social Strata