I have always had an issue keeping the trans temp down on my dragster. After the first run it will build temp. I will go from 150 to 220 on a run and drive back to the pit. I have tried everything. I run synthetic fluid.

Does anyone have this issue or had this issue. what did you do to fix the issue.

Gonna need more info. engine size. converter. Stall. You have a cooler? what kind?

622cu, Hughes converter 6400stall, I have the B&M trans cooler on the car.

I have the Moroso cooler and it has worked well. I do know several people who ran "Ringless Input shafts" and had bad heat issues because of circulation issues. My transmission guy told me the ringless ones are stronger but make trans run real hot.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I have the Moroso cooler and it has worked well. I do know several people who ran "Ringless Input shafts" and had bad heat issues because of circulation issues. My transmission guy told me the ringless ones are stronger but make trans run real hot.

The pump does need to be set up for a ringless shaft. If you just replace a ringed shaft with a ringless one, you won't have cooler flow.

I will check to see if a ringless shaft is in there now. I broke an input shaft at the spring fling and I know the one I put in was not ringless but I did have more work done to it.

After spending a small fortune I finally fixed my trans temp issue by unpluging the sensor...

I've never had the transmission heat up that fast. I did gain heat when I switched to spragless. I also heat up a little when I get into the later rounds or double up. I added a Jones Transmission Pump recently and it really helped cool it down. The only thing I need to add is a separate fan on the transmission cooler.

It would be easy enough to tell if the cooler is getting just as hot as the transmission itself.

I have been in the same boat for yrs. I really believe the ones of us who moniter trans temps are the only ones who really kmow how hot they run. The only way to hide the issue is to unplug the guage. Big Steve has it right! Mines 230* after 4th rd. Used to pour a gallon of cold water on it and listen to it sizzle. Tried different converters,trans, & fluid and even different cars.... all the same.

quote:

Originally posted by 27Keith:
I have been in the same boat for yrs. I really believe the ones of us who moniter trans temps are the only ones who really kmow how hot they run. The only way to hide the issue is to unplug the guage. Big Steve has it right! Mines 230* after 4th rd. Used to pour a gallon of cold water on it and listen to it sizzle. Tried different converters,trans, & fluid and even different cars.... all the same.

YUP

I might just unplug it. I have tried everything to get the temps down.

Y’all gotta be doing something wrong....I’m down here in the Deep South....double on a regular basis mine never goes over 200 degrees....with basically the same set up

there's nothing normal about going from 150 to 220 on 1 run. You've got a problem.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
After spending a small fortune I finally fixed my trans temp issue by unpluging the sensor...

BTW, I have no cooler and no temp. sensor...……………..and no problems.

I do put a blower on the converter after a pass if next the round is within a hour or so.

I ditched the gauge years ago...if I can put my hand on the case for more than 2 seconds...its good to go...if I can't, well that has never happened. EVEN double teched in Texas. No Jones pump and I do have a fan on converter between runs does the trick year after year.

My doorcar never gets over 150.

Curious as to what size tire and gear.

When I drove a dragster for my buddy, it had 3.90 gears and 34.5 tires running 7.70's. It used to cook the fluid and we used to spray the trans between rounds. (no gauge, too hot to touch it)

Another small block dragster I drove would get up to 200 and never really went over, even hot lapping it.

My slow doorcar never gets over 150.

I've had mine to 250° on a few occasions hot lapping. I complained to a friend of mine and he went to my car and came back said he fixed it. When I went to make another pass I found he had put tape over the gauge.

I don’t have a gauge on my car nor a cooler and it is still working just fine.

One thing you should do is remove the top cooler line and placed in a bottle. it should pump a quart of fluid at idle in less than 30 seconds. No fluid should come from the top fitting on the case!!! Only from the line!!If not there is a flow problem in the cooler circuit. It could be a check valve in pump stuck open,a check valve in cooler,bad cooler line,mix matched pump and input. If this flow is not correct it will affect the performance of the car as well due to this is where converter charge pressure is regulated.

Greg