That's an "oh ****" moment for sure....

And as far a cycles on an aluminum shaft I would think running in SC would be worse than top dragster because of coming of stop is almost like launching again

For what it's worth, I have never seen an MW AL driveshaft fail in a dragster. I have seen what happens to one when the u joint fails though. Happened twice last year, one went POW and we caught the other one just in time, both had the same issue, rear u joint failure due to lack of lubricate which ate the needles and the joint up until too much clearance developed. Both of these used MW rear yoke caps, not u bolts. No idea why the lube dried up or if there was any to start with. One was just over a year old and not sure of the other.

BTW, MW does not recommend AL shafts for dragsters, too short! But they do build them. Also I have seen other AL DS's brands fail.

The CV deal looks nice but certainly not required for any dragster running 7.00's and slower in the 1/4. 6.50 to 7.00 they are a nice to have IMO but if you change the joints on a regular basis, I'd say 95% plus of the time a good DS will do the trick. Quicker than 6.50, time to look a more than just the DS!

Another cheaper option, Dan Page Race Cars fabricates a mini DS tube that bolts to the trans and the chassis, similar to Top Sportsman requirements. This will contain and limit the damage a failed DS or u joint causes in a dragster.

Truth and Facts right there^^^

I wonder exactly how much performance advantage the aluminum actually gives in a very short shaft like this. I understand the ends are part of the equation as well. Just curious.

a hundred, maybe 2 at best. Was worth .04 in my Chevelle with a nearly 60" long driveshaft going from the stock OEM steel shaft.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
I wonder exactly how much performance advantage the aluminum actually gives in a very short shaft like this. I understand the ends are part of the equation as well. Just curious.

None you would ever be able to measure. When it comes to weight, in general the less power you have the more likely you will see some gains and you need to look at everything weight wise if your gonna play that game. A few pounds here or there will likely make zero difference. Case in point, on a 7.40 dragster, same tires, with and without bead locks, no difference in et or speed, same day test.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
I wonder exactly how much performance advantage the aluminum actually gives in a very short shaft like this. I understand the ends are part of the equation as well. Just curious.

Not enough to go with an aluminum shaft.....

As stated earlier I saw no difference between a 4lb aluminum and 11lb CM driveshaft after my aluminum one let go. It was two weeks between races when I made the change and car ran right where it should based on weather station and tons of records of running at the same track.
David

it about the sum of the parts, not one single part. Both my cars have aluminum spools too.

quote:

Originally posted by diceman1530:
Anyone running Top Dragster should be running this style strap.

https://www.markwilliams.com/u-joints-bolts-caps.html

Thats what I had when mine broke

quote:

Originally posted by topd1332:

quote:

Originally posted by diceman1530:
Anyone running Top Dragster should be running this style strap.

https://www.markwilliams.com/u-joints-bolts-caps.html

Thats what I had when mine broke

What broke, the DS, strap or U-Joint? I have the standard MW U bolts on mine. I replaced both U joints and U bolts when I started TD about 100 runs ago. CM steel DS

i ran a carbon shaft on my 4.70 dragster for almost a season before it broke. it was 3 lbs lighter than my aluminum one. on the day it broke i luckily had the aluminum one in the trailer. it broke at the hit, obliviously, towed car back, changed it and managed to get back in line for the same round of time runs lol. i saw zero change in et!

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
So other than the car seems to accelerate smoother and it's possibly safer, do you feel it is worth the $ as a replacement to a good, traditional u joint driveshaft?

without a doubt yes. I wouldn't hesitate to get another one I had a new car. Brett now has a all black one I just saw, looks great.

JR an all black one you say? Hmm I wonder who’s that one may be?

I love mine and would buy another one from Bret Goethe in a heart beat. Got mine quick even with him going above and beyond to customize it and coat it all black. Now with that being said MW makes fine products as well all of my cars have had MW products on them and the drive shaft that I replaced was a MW drive shaft. I did this off of pure safety in mind. But to each is own and everyone is entitled to their own opinion on what brand or type is better .