Hi, we have a new LS build with a 58 tooth reluctor, a brand new GM timing cover with a new cam sensor, and a 4 pole timing gear. It immediately trips a cam sensor error and attempts to start end in backfires. Custom 1 zero all coolant and map curves, fixed timing at 28 degrees. Tried fixed timing from 15 to 50. Plugged old cam sensor in same issue. Thoughts?

I have 5 volts to cam sensor, stock GM coil packs and pi out to each coil/cylinder is correct.

Sorry, but I have not used or have knowledge of the MSD 6014.

Instructions says “It auto detects the correct configuration based on the reluctor wheel pattern, so there is no need to select one”. They make it appear to be easy.

CAM FAULT: RPM is detected but no cam sensor signal is present

Just Curious, is this being used with EFI or carb ?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: markemark,

On 10 Pin Connector, do you meter 5 v between these 2 wires ?
Pin B Ground BROWN
PIN E 5V ORANGE

Is sensor 3 wire? If power is going to sensor, is signal returning on Brown / White?

If power returning on Brown/ White it’s possible that the wire in the 10 pin connector is not properly attached to the metal pin so that it reaches the control. I’ve seen this several times in the 32 pin connectors for Grid wiring harnesses.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: markemark,

Carb of course!!! I measure 5 volts at the cam sensor, Orange and brown. I'll check the brown/white for continuity.

Brown white wire has continuity from 10 pin to cam sensor. So Either two bad sensors, 1 new, or bad MSD..

Update, my brother thought the error was a cam sensor, it was an ECT error because the optional coolant sensor is not installed. So no other errors, fixed timing, and popping like it's erratic timing. So...

After reviewing the instruction manual and the programming in MSD View, it’s fairly simple to use. I looked at reviews of this ignition control on Summit and it was 5 star rated by all (14) users.

MSD techs should have the answers you need followed by factory warranty service if needed.

Definitely post an update when you have this resolved…I’m curious.

MSD Tech was useless... No idea what sensors to use, only that 24 tooth used a 1 pole cam, 58 tooth a 4 pole cam. This is what I found.

So I've had some research time with this box, and failures before I was able to make it work. Hopefully this will prevent others from spending excess money to get it to work.

So the box is made to work with an LS engine for those that want to run a carb. Software is the same that is used for the grid, although there are a couple things at least with the logging that isn't the same as the grid. It is made to work with either a 24 or a 58 tooth reluctor, but here is where the fun begins. The 24 tooth arrangement came with either a 1 pole cam plate machined on the cam, for 2005 only a one pole plate in the front. The front mount is the tricky part with the 24 tooth. The 58 tooth uses a 4 pole front mount plate. Cam gears for the front can be bought for single row chains or double roller with no poles, 1 pole, or 4 poles. Below is what you need to get it to work correctly.

1. Gen 3 users a 24 tooth reluctor on the crank. The crank sensor is GM 12560228, and is black in color. Looking at the connector on the sensor there is an alignment tab on the right side top. The cam sensor mounted on the rear of the block is a GM 12561211, I also found the AC Delco part number was 213-363. One of the two cam/crank sensor 10 pin harnesses supplied with the 6014 is shorter than the other, this has the correct connectors to fit each sensor and is the right length. Both sensors are wired to the pink wire in the harness for 12 volts. Cam gear has no poles machined or plate mounted to it.

2. Gen 4 engines after 2005, I am going to skip to the 58 tooth reluctor setup. The old sensor part number is GM 12585546, the new replacement number 12703627, either should work fine. Don't be confused by colors, one is black and one is gray. The alignment tab is on the left top. For the cam a front mounted sensor and 4 pole cam gear must be used. The sensor is a GM 12591720. With the VVT setup the plate is offset and uses a thicker timing cover to offset the sensor correctly. The non VVT gears use a thinner cover and set the sensor closer. The second 10 pin harness is much longer because of the separation between the cam and crank sensor. The shorter wired connector is the crank, longer is the cam. This setup has both the crank and cam sensors wired to the orange 5 volt wire and the correct connectors for the sensors.

3. 2005 Gen 4 engines, or any later Gen 4's with a 24 tooth reluctor and a front mount cam sensor. This is the tricky one, and the setup we ended up with. Crank was supposed to have a 58 tooth reluctor but didn't end that way. Crank sensor is the same as the Gen 3 above, GM 12560228 and as far as I've been able to find out needs 12 volts. The cam sensor is the same as the 58 tooth front mount, but with a 1 pole reluctor. This is made for 5 volts, and what I haven't found out is whether or not it will handle 12 volts. And the difference with the connectors makes both both harnesses incorrect, the short one is too short to fit the front cam sensor and neither wired for different voltages. What I ended up doing was taking the short harness apart and stealing the crank sensor connector and wires out of it. It has the longer wires of the two connectors and is about the same length in the other harness. First I cut away the heat shrink carefully, and pulled off the wrapping that tied the two cables together near the 10 pin connector. On the 10 pin connector I pulled the white insert out with needle nose players on the two hole in the middle, quick yank and it came out. There are tabs that hold each terminal in for the crank sensor, you move them away with a scribe and the wires come out with little twisting and turning. You will need to clip the cam sensor pink 12 volt power wire away from the split, and clip the black ground off the crank sensor at the spit. On the long 10 pin harness I repeated the same, cutting the shrink and unwrapping, pulling out the white piece in the connector. There are white blanks installed in unused spaces, pull the blank out where the pink went in the short harness, this is next to the orange 5 volt terminal/wire. Remove the crank sensor signal wire orange with a stripe, it's the shorter of the two wired connectors. Clip the solid orange 5 volt power wire from the crank sensor at the split, leaving the cam sensor connected thru to the 10 pin for 5 volt power. Clip the ground about an inch away from the split to allow splicing to the crank sensor wiring from the other harness. Then put the crank sensor terminal you removed from the other harness in, and then the pink 12 volt wire in next to the orange. Splice the ground wires together, rewrap the harness and tape it up. I used rescue tape, self sealing and adhesive. So you end up with the crank sensor at 12 volts, cam sensor at 5 volts as they were designed. It fired right away when finished.

EXCELLENT research, write up of the problem and how solved Mark. I encourage you to post this information in the TIPS section of DRR Tech Talk so that it can easily be sourced for review when needed. GREAT WORK !!!

Consider sending what you posted here to MSD as well.

I’ve written MSD several times about 7730 Grid problems that should be addressed to no avail. These are simple things that could easily be changed in the Firmware code.

I skimmed but didn’t fully understand.

Just wanted to offer for any others that you might consider the rear to front cam sensor conversion harness that is available for $20. I’m not sure it would have helped the op but seemed relevant for this topic.

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/c...s1-to-ls2-3/ls2-csah

The outer two wires have to be flipped when going from back to front, this harness is supposed to take care of that (mine is still on the FedEx truck so can’t confirm yet) According to the internet, a front mount 1 pole sensor and a front mount 4 pole sensor are the same sensor. They ran on 12v in 05 when looking at a 1 pole cam and 5 volts in later years when looking at a 4 pole cam.

I’ll find out soon if this is all accurate, but that’s what I understand right now.