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DRR Sportsman |
What cylinder heads bbc are considered the best for the 250 blower ? Thanks Jeff McClure | ||
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DRR Trophy![]() |
There should be someone coming along soon, to ridicule you for the lack of information provided to answer that question….. (sorry had too – lol) Seriously though, it would require a bunch of info to make the best “logical” choice in satisfying that answer. IMO – there are several that would be comparable in choice for a forced induction BB GM bracket car. Beyond just parts and pieces, things that seem to slide by are what fuel and how much boost is planned? This will affect choices like runner volume and intake to exhaust flow ratio and make a lot of N/A and/or gasoline port design details invalid, not saying that a “conventional off the shelf” head wont work, as it becomes a matter of relevancy to the end goal. Jerry Kathe | |||
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DRR Top Comp![]() |
I think much the same as NA, the 250 blower is small and will not produce huge amounts of boost. You want as good of performing combination as possible to start with. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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DRR Trophy![]() |
This. I've seen 5.1 motors pick up to 4.70's or 4.80's or so, 4.70 motors pick up to 4.40's to 4.50 and have seen a few 4.50/60 motors pick up to 4.30's. So with the 250 blowers, if you are planning a new one and wanting to go X.xx, make sure you build something that will go about 2-3 tenths slower roughly and you can do a few things to help like piston design and cam still to tailor to the blower. If it's an existing motor, just roughly speaking based on what most people see, it should go 2-3 tenths quicker regardless of cylinder head. Nick Craig 1971 Camaro Split Bumper 376ci LS3 | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
I hear people talking about the blowers and usually in regard to boost. Boost numbers are just a function of restriction, correct? So does a 383cc head have more boost from the same pulleys than a 440cc head? If so which would pick up more given cam and compression being equal? Would the larger volume head need more blower speed to reach the same levels of boost? Not a blower guys so I am just curious. If I knew then what I know now though I would be a blower guy. Much easier than NA. ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I understand asking which head was pretty vague. The manifolds are conventional so just curious what head people who have the 250 blower are running. I’m going to build a new motor for one. I have been running one already for a few months on small heads and cam. So just curious what’s working for people who use the 250. Thanks. Jeff McClure | |||
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DRR Trophy![]() |
Lots of BB3 rectangle port headed combos, Dart 345/355/365 headed combos, Trick Flow Specialties 365.. It's all a matter of your goals, and as some people say, it's all in the whole combination, not just one specific part of the engine. So what are your HP/ET goals? Next be the cubic inch of the engine/RPM you want to turn... Nick Craig 1971 Camaro Split Bumper 376ci LS3 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Nick. I’m an open book on new build so to speak. I have a 4.60 Merlin block so that’s my base. I’m running a best of 4.68 high or low altitude mostly 4.70’s at 150 now. Seems like I hit a wall. I know these are limited Been looking at AFR 385 Brodix 365 oval 380x and as cast 363. Its really 60 ft sensitive so it’s more fun than deadly. Jeff McClure | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I have had 2 different set ups. Both came from Chris Wilson and both were very easy to race setups. Very consistent, predictable and reliable. First was a 582 headhunter and second was a 632 bb3. First was a carb, second was terminator. I essentially ran them both around the same ET range which was 440’s. 632 setup was ran with a 35 or 37 pulley to run 40’s. The 582 ran a 33 pulley. Obviously the 632 had potential to be faster than the 582, but either would go faster than I wanted to be at a bracket race. Pull some timing for 1 or 1.2 seconds and let the MPH roll. In my opinion, as cars have gotten faster over the years, these lightly boosted combinations are the future of fast bracket cars. I feel like my opinion is backed up by performance, reliability and economics. If the goal is to go fast and win races without spending all you can, this is the direction to go. To get back to the cylinder head question, why not talk to a reputable builder that has experience with a combination like you’re looking to build? Cubic inch, converter, camshaft and compression are all gonna play a big part in “the right combination “. If you let somebody help, it may cost a little more to get it to the track for the first time, but it’ll most likely be more economical in the end and probably win more races too. It’s hard to beat a man at his own game. Wilson has absolutely gotten these things worked out better than any other. If you choose someone else to help, I still feel like it’ll be cheaper in the end to get a proven combination put together the first time. I realize a lot of what I said is opinion, but I’ve got a log book to back up everything I said… | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
565-dart 355. I’ve been high 4.40s with a 31 tooth and low 40s-high 30s with a 29 tooth. Both with a very loose converter. The combo went high 4.70s low 4.80s before the blower. Like said above the combination of components is key. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I'm no help, but I have a question that may be something to consider. The blower pretty much stuffs the intake side. It seems to me that the best head for a blown application would be one with really good exhaust ports. I used to be a people person, but people ruined that. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I have a set of profiler sniper x’s and Brodix billet heads… both have been great and run about the same. Granted I don’t have a baby blower but I feel either head would work great for whatever your doing… J.R. Baxter ""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen." 2024 Miller Rolla Competition Engines ProCharger Hoosier Tires Abruzzi | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
My opinion is the heads that you have! going to get lots of opinions but in the 3-7lb boost range most are running, not sure how critical it will be. But also depends on what you are trying to do? Blake | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Anyone notice an increase in consistency over the course of the day using Baby blowers? | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
As far as heads go, if you are looking for the "best" i'm sure you will get tons of opinions if you want mine, here goes. Dart Pro2 380. The heads are big enough to go on a 598 normally aspirated and make good power without crazy compression and or camshafts. My current combo made 1025 HP with 790 lift cam, 13.5:1 compression and 598 cubic inches. Brodix 380 CNC's seem to be pretty popular for blower combinations. 380 Range heads are small enough to run on 565/582 combos and still be effective yet have room to grow with the blower. NA this combo went 4.78 with the 250 33 top 67 bottom it went 4.435 158 this past weekend with a little more in the tank pulling 11 degrees for .6 seconds. Boost is primarily a function of 4 things, blower output, motor cubic inches, blower RPM, and blower efficiency. You could add in a little bit of camshaft selection in there but IMO that's minimal, unless the cam is JUNK NA, it should run fine with a 250. We've run really hard with a 14:71 on a 509 with BB2's out the box with port match only (4.teens at 170+ @2250 lbs) so "big" heads aren't absolutely necessary. Someone said it before the 250 will pick most combinations up by about 3 to 4 tenths depending on how hard you turn it, how good you are at tuning it, and the hard parts. Buffco top is mandatory from what i hear from the carbureted guys. Injected with a hat or other it won't be used, mine is a bird catcher so i don't use the buffco top.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Triple Nickel, | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
jeff i suggest buy the best na head you can afford,it will run great without blower and better with it.from what i have witnessed the head is not that critical with the boost level most bracket racers are running. honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
My dads car has an ancient 598 (20+ years old) with the original AFR 355 (not 357’s for age reference) heads. The car is a little heavy for a tube chassis car and would run low 5.20’s typically with an occasional high teen in good air when NA. We installed a 250 blower with the only changes to the motor being a thicker head gasket and double keyed the crankshaft for a hemi style ATI balancer. On 4 psi (33 pulley) and 26 degrees of timing it runs mid to low 4.90’s@140-141 at 2740 lbs. With the 31 pulley at 6 psi it will run mid 4.80’s@143-144. Not sure that the head choice (within reason) at these boost levels is going to make or break the combination. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Sniper 174x is what I’m going with. Oakley made that decision easy since they have built a few of them that are performing very well | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
Wilson 598 steel block, BB3 brodix heads, big apd carb went 4.31 at 160 mph with 33 pulley last weekend at million in Montgomery below sea-level DA. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Was that all out, or just what you guys were dialing ![]() | |||
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