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ceramic coatings with nano?
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DRR Pro
posted
I have heard some good things about ceramic coating your car with that nano? Ive got a black car that i am interested in having it done.The body shops are quoting 1200.00.Anyone have any experience with this process and good or bad result?
 
Posts: 1426 | Location: united states | Registered: January 16, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Mike, I had this

https://www.simoniz.com/car-wa...ducts/diamond-plate/

applied to my daughters black Jeep within a week of buying it new in 2019 and I had a clear bra installed afterwards.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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was it worth it ed?
 
Posts: 1426 | Location: united states | Registered: January 16, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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On a brand new car yes but if you were only going to do one and want real paint protection spend the $ for the clear film

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Roger McGinnis
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You'll want to spend the money to have paint correction done. If not, you lock in the flaws for 4-5 years. Even a brand new car needs paint correction.



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Posts: 560 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: January 16, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
paint correction done. If not, you lock in the flaws for 4-5 years. Even a brand new car needs paint correction.

sounds complicated...he was talking about blocking and sanding then applying the ceramic coat?
 
Posts: 1426 | Location: united states | Registered: January 16, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Mike, if this is a brand new car, I wouldn’t let anyone do any “sanding” on new factory paint. All that’s required is to clean and clay bar the entire car and then apply the ceramic coating.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
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This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 43 years in dealer bodyshops. As said paint correction. If new make sure nothing is on paint surface. Clay bar is safe to remove fall out and the wet brake dust that other cars create around you as you are driving. I will say I am kind of old school as waxing a car a couple times a year seems to keep them looking nice at least here in Ohio. Some areas have detail shops as people just do not have the time to do it themselfs. The paint from the factory is very durable.
 
Posts: 318 | Location: ohio | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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those that don't believe in paint correction have never had it professionally done. It's expensive. Look down the side of any GM pickup truck on the lot particularly the darker colored ones, they all have some degree of orange peel. While a lot of them are too severe to totally "correct" them, it still makes a huge difference.

If you do the correction then ceramic, it lasts a while and really brings out a nice gloss. Way better than OEM! But it will cost you. Around here correction is $300-$1500 and ceramic done properly is close to that depending on the vehicle, etc.

I know my coworker had his 2014 silverado done and it looks better (externally) than any vehicle on any of the car lots. I was impressed to say the least but it cost him close to 2 grand.
 
Posts: 112 | Location: Il,IL | Registered: March 22, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I detail cars some on the side. If you plan on washing the car in the shade and drying it there, and not exposing it to water you will be fine. However, for all of the benefits, the trade off is these things get water spots etched in to them rather easily. I've tried close to a dozen different brands and formulas. Some are better than others but all end up spotted up eventually. What I recommend is a product like carpro hydro2 or mckees 37 hydro blue. They spray on and rinse off, give the same benefits of the ceramic coat at a 10th the cost and don't suffer from water spots nearly as bad. The trade off is you have to reapply every 4 months or so, but you literally spray it on and rinse it off. Use them on glass, wheels, paint, trim its fine. If you want to go the full route 1320 did, that is the only way I would ever ceramic coat something I own. Coat it, wrap it and done. It avoids the spotting issues.

On a side note, paint correction isn't what it once was. You can't really level out the clear on these cars or sand them. Some cars the clear is so thin that you're pushing your luck with a compound. When I correct a car, I'm only chasing light damage, the rest just isn't worth chasing. Sure it may not look flawless but it's just not worth it. If you want absolute perfection anymore, find a body shop, have them de-trim the entire car, prep it and add two more coats of clear. Then you can wet sand it flat and buff it out to your hearts content. It sounds ridiculous but if you took a paint depth gauge to most new cars, what you will find is between 2/3 and half the paint these cars had as recently as 15 years ago.
 
Posts: 66 | Location: Glen Burnie | Registered: May 30, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TonyB6255
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I have my Detailer putting IGL ceramic coating on the wife’s new black BMW.
 
Posts: 634 | Location: Rochester, WA | Registered: November 22, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Roger McGinnis
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quote:
Originally posted by jenavet:

sounds complicated...he was talking about blocking and sanding then applying the ceramic coat?


It's like anything else. You can do it right, or you can listen to Ed. Your money, your results.



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Posts: 560 | Location: Republic of Texas | Registered: January 16, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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