quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
What about just draining the tank, filling it with gas and running it for a few seconds to get it throughout the system?

Just run Klotz uplon fuel lube in your fuel and dont worry about it. I only pickle the system in the off season or if there is a couple of months between races. Did this with the Rons system and the current Blown Enderlie system with aluminum tank. Never had any issues

What Dave said is correct. Hydrometer is a cheap investment. We run 2 cars on Alky, Hat and Stack. At the end of each race day all the fuel is drained, fuel system is blown out, and everything is lubed with JB-80.About 1 hour of time. Alky is a funny animal, without checking with a Hydrometer you never know if you are chasing a problem or have a bad batch of fuel. We go through Fuel Check and Scales after every pass. Better safe than sorry. JMO.

I have checked the fuel with hygrometer and never found any water so do not bother any more.

quote:

Originally posted by 7065comp:
What Dave said is correct. Hydrometer is a cheap investment. We run 2 cars on Alky, Hat and Stack. At the end of each race day all the fuel is drained, fuel system is blown out, and everything is lubed with JB-80.About 1 hour of time. Alky is a funny animal, without checking with a Hydrometer you never know if you are chasing a problem or have a bad batch of fuel. We go through Fuel Check and Scales after every pass. Better safe than sorry. JMO.

If was not able to run Klotz lube because I had to go thru fuel check every run then I would definitely treat things a little differently. Besides the lube helping protect the fuel system parts I think it helps lube the blower strips also to give them extra life

quote:

Originally posted by 7065comp:
What Dave said is correct. Hydrometer is a cheap investment. We run 2 cars on Alky, Hat and Stack. At the end of each race day all the fuel is drained, fuel system is blown out, and everything is lubed with JB-80.About 1 hour of time. Alky is a funny animal, without checking with a Hydrometer you never know if you are chasing a problem or have a bad batch of fuel. We go through Fuel Check and Scales after every pass. Better safe than sorry. JMO.

Yes, only Dave's method is correct. All you other guys who have had no issues for 20 years without draining tank weekly are WRONG. Please also check with Dave on the proper way to take your coffee in the morning.

Sorry 7065comp, just kidding - its a pet peeve of mine when someone states ONE method is the only correct one!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BD104X,

I got nothin on the coffee.

How aluminum, and other fuel system parts live with alky is dependent on the humidity where the car is stored.

This is pretty interesting. I honestly don't know anyone that drains the system. Here in E TN it's extremely humid and I know quite a few alky fueled cars that sit out all week between races, not in an enclosed trailer but outside on an open trailer or left at the track.
Is it the lube that provides any protection for the aluminum? I only know of one person that wasn't using any lube and I'll have to look at his cars a little closer. I highly doubt he's doing any draining of any sort.

Bought my Nova in 1991, its been a race car ever since. Converted to alky in 1995. The car stayed outside on an open trailer year round until a few years ago when we finally had a garage built.

I never drained the tank or bowls and never did any fuel system maintenance between races. 2 years ago I replaced all my fittings and last year I had to have my fuel cell repaired.

My theory is let it be and fix it only when it needs to be fixed. Will this work for everyone, probably not. Do I recommend following my procedures, not so much. You do whats right for you.

As for lube, I have always asked for clear fuel with no lube.

I am a believer in Power Plus top lube. They've been making it (and improving on it) for 50 years. I don't mix it in the drum, (no easy way to shake it up), instead I add 1 ounce per 5 gallon jug before I fill them. That works out to 11 Oz per barrel, about 2/3 of a bottle.
It leaves a very thin film of white inside the bowls, (you can wipe it off with your finger), but no chunks or "sand". My cell is aluminum, never see anything in there, not even the white film, so the white stuff might be caused by a reaction with the cheap pot metal the bowls are made of? My system never gets drained. After I load up the car, I shut off the pump and run it 'til the bowls empty, only takes a few seconds. I start each race day with a quick shot of carb cleaner or brake cleaner on the air bleeds, just out of habit. I used to use 2 Oz of top lube per 5 gallon jug, and it seemed like sometimes the low speed air bleeds would gum up a bit, which is why I cut back on the lube. Since then it all stays clean and pristine.
Only time I saw the white "mystery sand", was when I put a big aluminum bodied filter between cell & pump. It said it was made for alcohol, and had stainless screens in it, but whatever they used to weld or solder the screen to the end cap, that sand stuff was growing off the joining area like cauliflower. Yanked the filter, trashed it, haven't looked back.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim,

I went to alcohol in 1998 and back then they said you have to change the oil every week, you have to drain all of the alcohol and all of these other horror stories. Look, run top lube and warm up motor good to evaporate the moisture out of the oil. Do not make it harder than it has to be. Even with gas you have to do regular maintenance and gas will go bad to if not taken care of.

Alky with top lube. 5 years never drained tank or carb even over winter. No issues here. Problem comes when you run it dry and the dried up alky starts to eat away at aluminum. Keep it full and no issues.

Low quality aluminum used to make the cell is a large player. Has to be high quality alloy aluminum. Same goes for cheap fittings that use low quality aluminum and anodizing. The mystery corrosion and sand also happens in the cooling system if low quality components are used. So it's not necessarily a methanol issue. It's more about water/moisture and corrosion of low quality aluminum.

Scott

So what are recommended make aluminum fittings to use in your experience or where to buy stainless fittings and are they worth extra money for longevity. Also con I use the braided hose with stainless

I use Russel Endura on anything that touches alcohol. Have seen others corrode.


My system is always full with no other maintenance.