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Street gear set in dragsters
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DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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It is getting a Pro Gear set.....along with the other items needed to make that happen....

Dragracing is Latin and it means....HATEYURMONEY....LOL
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
My 9” Ford gears are cracked at the base of the pinion gear and at least one is cracked across a tooth. Ring gear looks fine. Gearset has been in the car 10 years! Gears are not Pro gears. Pinion is 28 spline and as far as I know all pro gear sets are 35 spline. My old dragster also had street gears in it and never hurt them. I can upgrade it easily to a pro set with some added parts and cost but since what I had lasted so long I’m wondering why bother spend $ for nothing.....
. Geeeze, you got 10 years out of them,.....what was you question. Running Street Gears in drag racing and them giving reasonable service life depends on the power level, vehicle weight and pinion size( ratio). I ran them in my light weight dragster to around the 6.70's before switching to Pro Gears,....never broke one.


Fellow racer and servant of the Lord of Lords
John 14:6
"Creekside Racing Ministry"
MFI system, ProCharger Non-intercooled [6.02 @ 229 or 3.91/660' soft tune and killing power above 6K rpm]
Ron Clevenger
 
Posts: 1006 | Location: Visalia, Calif. 93292 | Registered: November 23, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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We broke a 4.30 street gear set in the Roadster about four years ago so I upgraded to the Pro series set. The overall cost of getting to and racing at an event these days in my mind justified the additional expense of the Pro gear set. I should have upgraded the 35 spline axles at that time, didn't, broke one and nearly wrecked the car. so I changed to the MW 40 spline axles and lightweight spool.

The carnage never seems to end, ain't racing' fun!!

Happy New Year Rich!

Bob
 
Posts: 3117 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I can’t really complain about breakage much. I’m glad I usually find things before it becomes an at track event. The cost is what it is and we all gotta pay to play...Happy New Year Bob
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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Running street gears in anything race only with an automatic trans works best if you set the gear up with as close to zero backlash as you can get it.

I've got a little runout on my spool, so I'm at about .0015"

I set up Pro gears at about .004"


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Arron1320
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quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
Running street gears in anything race only with an automatic trans works best if you set the gear up with as close to zero backlash as you can get it.

I've got a little runout on my spool, so I'm at about .0015"

I set up Pro gears at about .004"


I would have to disagree with this method as you are not allowing enough clearance for lubrication to happen. But just my .002


Arron Spitzer
Quickperformance.com
 
Posts: 15 | Location: Ames, IA | Registered: March 13, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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quote:
Originally posted by Arron1320:
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
Running street gears in anything race only with an automatic trans works best if you set the gear up with as close to zero backlash as you can get it.

I've got a little runout on my spool, so I'm at about .0015"

I set up Pro gears at about .004"


I would have to disagree with this method as you are not allowing enough clearance for lubrication to happen. But just my .002


Believe me, I had SERIOUS misgivings about it when it was presented to me in 1995, but I've set up every race set that way since, and have had the easiest rolling, quietest rear gears, and never seen anything but perfect wear.

I have a fella with a 3000# + door car going 5.40's that gets 350-500 runs from his gear sets, in 3500# + runs in my car, (3250# @ high 1.3 short times) I have broken one gear set, from a violent wheel hop incident.


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Arron1320:
quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
Running street gears in anything race only with an automatic trans works best if you set the gear up with as close to zero backlash as you can get it.

I've got a little runout on my spool, so I'm at about .0015"

I set up Pro gears at about .004"


I would have to disagree with this method as you are not allowing enough clearance for lubrication to happen. But just my .002


Sorry Goob but I gotta agree with Aaron.
I have a friend who believes as you do and it's a constant disagreement between us. lol

As a side note. Get a good gear oil in it. Pay attention to the GL rating as that is what indicates the shock load abilities. The oil provides a wedge between the two parts. If it cannot get in there it can't protect them.
A very good read can be found HERE.

Use a synthetic too.. Amsoil,Lucas, or Torco.

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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SCDIV1,

I know this isn't the answer to the original question, but figure it could help you or other out..

More info. One other thing I learned years ago from Richmond Gear.
Just like when building an engine. De-burr the ring and pinion. Take the sharp edges off of the parts. I've found gear sets that had tight spots and after deburring them they turned smooth.

I know you put a solid crush sleeve in there as well, right? lol

Dave

DC: Pro Gears Big Grin


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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New US Gear PRO gears, 35 spine pinion, new pinion carrier, new yolk.....solid spacer....new pinion bearings...

New axles, bearings, M-W brakes....dual caliper....foot and hand lever....


I got an education on 9" differentials.....


Its all back together....
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
New US Gear PRO gears, 35 spine pinion, new pinion carrier, new yolk.....solid spacer....new pinion bearings...

New axles, bearings, M-W brakes....dual caliper....foot and hand lever....


I got an education on 9" differentials.....


Its all back together....


LOL... I bet you did...

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Bringing up this old thread as I have a question about the street vs Pro gears.

Is the reason to upgrade because of the metal used, or for the bigger pinion ?

I am trying to see if there is any advantage of the small pinion pro gears except for using the same yoke as I have now. Thanks.
 
Posts: 106 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: September 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of BD104X
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quote:
Originally posted by Camaro80z:
Bringing up this old thread as I have a question about the street vs Pro gears.

Is the reason to upgrade because of the metal used, or for the bigger pinion ?

I am trying to see if there is any advantage of the small pinion pro gears except for using the same yoke as I have now. Thanks.


Street gears are a harder material so they last. Pro gears are a softer material, so they can absorb the impact of hard launches better but they will wear out much sooner.


Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com
 
Posts: 638 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: February 26, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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The big pinion pro gears have a larger shaft diameter between the pinion bearings. 28 spline is small pinion and 35 spline is the big pinion. There are some small pinion Pro sets but a wider choice of gear ratios in the bigger pinion sets.

I changed pinion carrier, yoke, bearings, gear set and axles and all new brakes.

Car has not moved one inch yet!
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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Can someone give me a # for 4.56 small pinion pro gear set?
 
Posts: 612 | Location: nw ohio | Registered: November 20, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of sr4440
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quote:
Originally posted by HR3377:
Can someone give me a # for 4.56 small pinion pro gear set?


4th answer down
http://bfy.tw/MtgX


Without data, you’re just another guy with an opinion.
 
Posts: 1301 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: February 07, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Thanks, don't know how I missed that when I was looking.
 
Posts: 612 | Location: nw ohio | Registered: November 20, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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