quote:

Originally posted by sammy christian:
you guys keep thinking there is magic in that oil?
Clearly, from the graph, it's 1-2 quarts short of making the stripe.(just like Mike ;])

I’ve seen oil psi do that for both too much and too little. Seen it do that cavitation because oil was all up high in the valley and drain back was poor (too little oil), also seen too much (or poor windage control) froth the oil where it will cavitate the pump and oil psi will bounce around. Not saying either of those things are his cause but not always uncovered pickup that will do it.

Mine fluctuates about 10 psi going down the track but never goes below 60PSI so I don't worry about it. Now when I lift that's another story, it just tanks, another reason I neutral the trans and kill the ignition as soon as I physically can

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I neutral the trans and kill the ignition as soon as I physically can

I've Always been told that this is a must do with Aluminum rods....and putting some heat in the oil and short block is also a good idea to help them live....

The second part is more difficult but running the engine on jacks is something I've seen done many times buy guys running blowers.....regardless of what type....

Was next to Mike Coughlin at Etown a couple seasons ago and they warmed that car up every run......Pro Charged.... 6.0's with ease....on methanol...

quote:

I’ve seen oil psi do that for both too much and too little. Seen it do that cavitation because oil was all up high in the valley and drain back was poor (too little oil), also seen too much (or poor windage control) froth the oil where it will cavitate the pump and oil psi will bounce around. Not saying either of those things are his cause but not always uncovered pickup that will do it.

bingo!
nothing to do with the oil itself.
Agree that an extra quart can be just as bad as too little, crank hitting the oil is worse.
that graph shouldn't happen even if it had SAE30HD from a lawn mower in it.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
I neutral the trans and kill the ignition as soon as I physically can

I've Always been told that this is a must do with Aluminum rods....and putting some heat in the oil and short block is also a good idea to help them live....

The second part is more difficult but running the engine on jacks is something I've seen done many times buy guys running blowers.....regardless of what type....

Was next to Mike Coughlin at Etown a couple seasons ago and they warmed that car up every run......Pro Charged.... 6.0's with ease....on methanol...

Unless were hot lapping which is rare in TD I always warm mine up in the pits and top off with fuel before heading to the lanes. Pan heater is almost always on in the pits. Every little bit helps

If you need to change bearings for no reason, that is just silly. Unless the oiling system has issues or you have found bearing material in the filter why would you. You aren't running it with a top alcohol tune up, measuring bearings. More harm than good in my thoughts. Screwing with already set and torqued rod bolts ..... Not me.
And what...... really can the manufacturer actually tell you? The bores are round and the center to center length is within a spec. Other than that, they really cannot predict how much longer they will last. [/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

At this HP level I think of inspecting the rod bearings and replacing them before they fail is on the same level as replacing aluminum rods before they break. Just preventive maintenance, upon inspection what if I find a bearing that's starting to fail, maybe its beat flat because the rod is out of round.....I may have just prevented a blown up engine
IMO rods dont break on their own, a bearing, bolt or wrist pin failure usually prempts the rod breaking.[/QUOTE]

Well after reading your post about only 60 psi of pressure and pressure tanking, and having to shut it off, I would guess you would want to check your bearings.
But it begs the question.... what is the problem? Sooner or later it will bite you. Why not fix it? Bad pan? crappy pump? Poor oil return? Excess windage aerating the oil?

Just put new rods in a TT 540 with 125 full,aborted, 1/2 track... runs and about 40 200-300 ft launches, meh maybe 2000-2500 hp, got the same coated bearings back in. New rods.
Good pan, Charlies I think, Moroso billet pump, remote filter, HP 6 (the big one) I believe.

just a follow up...
I contacted schaeffer oil company just to see if they had any ideas on the change in pressures.
the guy that answered was absolutely clueless and asked me to email all the info including the graphs to their tech department
been a month and I haven't heard a word

I will stick with the lucas...they are at the track and the reps know what they are talking about

Jenavet you did not happen to put the bearing shells in the wrong way did you? I have seen it done and run a long time. I figured that the way that you maintain your stuff that 200 passes on those rods would have been fine

quote:

Originally posted by jenavet:
just a follow up...
I contacted schaeffer oil company just to see if they had any ideas on the change in pressures.
the guy that answered was absolutely clueless and asked me to email all the info including the graphs to their tech department
been a month and I haven't heard a word

I will stick with the lucas...they are at the track and the reps know what they are talking about

No snarkiness intended by this comment: But what did you expect him to tell you?
IMO, the properties of that oil didn't cause the issue you saw. I, like the rep, can't tell you for sure WHAT the problem really was. But I think we can say with some confidence what it was not.

quote:

But what did you expect him to tell you?

that's a dang good point bucky!!

Following up from the oil test thread in play now. I always ran Schaffer micron moly Straight Weight 40. The only thing that could explain this was your batch of Schaffer oil must of been mislabeled. I know it’s been some time but if you have some virgin oil of it from the original jug or box of qts. Call them, and ask for Tina. She’ll connect you to the head cheese. I’m sure he’ll want a sample back to test and tell you what happened. Only oil viscosity or temp on a good healthy engine could of caused what you saw.
You are wise to of dumped it, but I’ll stand behind Schaffer’s race oil. 580 runs on my new 582 and when I took it apart to upgrade to Crower billet rods the rod bearings looked like new as well as the cylinder walls, rings and valve train. 250ppm moly helps a great deal.

Jay Schaefer Shields is the CEO 800 325 9962
Tina Strange Sr CS Rep 314 865 4100
It’s been 5 years since my last bull purchase of 5 x 5 gal jugs of #110