I've read posts where some on alcohol have installed thermostats to help with heat. I know my block has the bypass blocked at the WP on a SBC. I didn't know how it would work out with an electric pump. I guess drilling a couple of holes around the thermostat would work as a bypass so the pump wouldn't be deadheading. Has anyone done this?

Primer Plus, nuff said!

http://www.killerrons.com/primer.cfm

Sure, I run a Thermostat and I drilled some small holes around it to get air out quicker and flow some water all the time. I also run a fan Thermostat to kick the fan on when it gets certain temperature. Trying to keep the temperatures in the range I want.

Stewart has one with holes in it already. I have one in my car.

https://www.stewartcomponents....ath=61&product_id=55

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Stewart has one with holes in it already. I have one in my car.

https://www.stewartcomponents....ath=61&product_id=55

Interesting how the drilled around the top. It also says only use with their modified water pumps, are using an electric pump?

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Stewart has one with holes in it already. I have one in my car.

https://www.stewartcomponents....ath=61&product_id=55

Interesting how the drilled around the top. It also says only use with their modified water pumps, are using an electric pump?

Yes. I have a Meziere pump on mine.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
Sure, I run a Thermostat and I drilled some small holes around it to get air out quicker and flow some water all the time. I also run a fan Thermostat to kick the fan on when it gets certain temperature. Trying to keep the temperatures in the range I want.

What fan switch at what temperature on and off?

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
Sure, I run a Thermostat and I drilled some small holes around it to get air out quicker and flow some water all the time. I also run a fan Thermostat to kick the fan on when it gets certain temperature. Trying to keep the temperatures in the range I want.

What fan switch at what temperature on and off?

I have a 170* Thermostat in water neck and fan Thermostat is set around 180*-185* Also have it on a fan switch so I can turn it off at the end of the day to build more heat and evaporate moisture out. With those and the leanout on my fuel pump I am able to control the heat pretty good.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3651 I think this is the one I used.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3651 I think this is the one I used.

What do you set it on? I have a Standard TS87 which from what I found on specs turns on at 178-192 and turns off at 160

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-3651 I think this is the one I used.

What do you set it on? I have a Standard TS87 which from what I found on specs turns on at 178-192 and turns off at 160

Around 180*-185*

Thanks. I'm looking at using the switch I have, should work.

A lot of customers run a thermostat when running alky. Not having a bypass will not hurt the water pump. I would start with 1 - 1/8" hole drilled in the flange of the thermostat. This hole helps to get air out of the system when filling and it will help your temperature gauge to ready more accurately.

You do not want to control a pump with a temperature switch like you do a fan. You always want the coolant moving in the block or you will not have a accurate reading on your coolant temps.

I wasn't looking at controlling the pump with a temp switch just the fan.
I looked at a Mr. Gasket thermostat and it looks just just like a Robertshaw like Stewart sells but without the holes drilled in it. Don't find any good things said about the Mr. Gasket thermostats.

I run the steward t stat in mine, 180*. Also Meziere water pump. Works great.

160 thermostat and running gas here. I ran a -6 bypass hose from under the t-stat to the water pump inlet to have water moving when the t-stat is closed. The CVS 55gpm pump had a small boss with a 1/2” NPT hole that was perfect for the bypass. I used a amoroso t-stat and H2O temps stay 160-162 when modulating.

If I remember right I drilled four holes about 1/8" which is probably more than needed.

On any electric pump (Fuel or Water) it is hard on them to Deadhead them. When they are working hard but not moving much draws more Amps and wears it out faster and gets hotter.

Those holes also help to get air out of your cooling system faster. Most with electric pumps do not run a Thermostat I think it is a good idea to run one if done right.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

On any electric pump (Fuel or Water) it is hard on them to Deadhead them. When they are working hard but not moving much draws more Amps and wears it out faster and gets hotter.

Electric water pumps, being centrifugal pumps and powered by a small electric motor do not generate the pressure that a positive displacement pump like a fuel pump. You would be lucky to see 5psi out of any of the electric water pump on the market. They do not suffer from being deadheaded like a fuel pump would.

Just to follow up I put a NAPA 160* thermostat in and drilled 3 1/8" holes around the flange of it. I could watch and see the thermostat open on the gauge with the pump on. When filling the radiator with the pump on it had flow through the bypass holes I drilled going through the radiator.

I see absolutely no reason to run a thermostat in any race motor. If you need to use one to gain water temp your alky carb isn't setup correctly and it's too rich on the idle circuit! You can also install a leanout valve to let additional air in during warm ups. You should be able to control your water temp with the radiator fan!