Building a ignition system to replace my msd mag 12's. Going with belt drive ditributor, control box, crank trigger and coil. So I think anway.

Wondering what best coil. Hottest and dependable? Hottest most important of the two, but at same time do not want a POS that dies every few runs.

Hav e craNK TRIGGER setup. WORKING ON MACHING a belt driven or in my case will be gear driven breakerless distribtor. Basically rotor and cap mounted on current gear drive. Then add controll box and coil.

Suggestions?

If purchasing the new MSD 7227 ignition and MSD 82612 coil, this combination allows for up to 330mj of output when selected. The selected could be controlled with the RAS function and small relay if desired. ie….. idle at 160mj, greater than 3000 rpm 330mj.

New MSD 7227 uses chips (what a money maker).

For comparison, an MSD 8 outputs 340mj, Grid 7720 200-220mj, 7AL 160mj, Digital 7 190mj, old 6AL 110mj.

MSD 8261 would be good choice with 7 series ignitions.

Don't forget to add in an alternator.

While I understand everyones thing about alternator. There is noway I could fit one on this deal If I wanted to.

If spomeone would tell why I need it if I keep battery up. Undrstand that is a if.

Have very few thgings that draw juice. Data logger,instruments and one fan unless run lights that is it. Maybe that is more than I think.

If alternator is a have to have. I guess I would be better off buying another backup mag and box to backup my backup. I don;t have ton of reson for change except being if there is issue there is nobody I can beg,borrow or buy from at a bracket race. Compatable with others main reason for even thinking about changing. That and have a dead control box that can not be repaired and new one is 950 bucks.

I suspect you will spend as much making this conversion as a new box costs.
However
https://www.brpromag.com/

https://www.magtechignition.com/services

https://system1filters.com/system-1-pro-ignition/

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
If spomeone would tell why I need it if I keep battery up. Undrstand that is a if.

When do you need the strongest voltage in a drag race?.
At the hit.
When is the biggest voltage drop in a drag race?
At the hit.

Ok understand need most power needed at hit. Not sure why would drop? Other than ignition it self and the transbrake nothing else will change.Transbrake will stop drawing any juice at the hit, No electric fuel pump, no cooling pump or fan.


Has anyone ever seen a et change with or w/o alternator? Asking because fail to see how.

How much boost are you expecting?
I have been running the MSD 8 with the big MSD coil at 35-36 PSI on a 540 CI engine.
I was running the old MSD 7 gold box and was told the MSD 8 would be a big difference.
Only change I saw was to my wallet.
Both worked well.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Ok understand need most power needed at hit. Not sure why would drop? Other than ignition it self and the transbrake nothing else will change.Transbrake will stop drawing any juice at the hit, No electric fuel pump, no cooling pump or fan.


Has anyone ever seen a et change with or w/o alternator? Asking because fail to see how.

It was a long time ago but at the time I was running 2 red top batteries with a alternator. During a bracket race it tossed the alt belt off and the car picked up almost a tenth.
Shortly after that I switched to a single 16 volt battery with no alt, and never looked back. Should note I was running MFI with mechanical fuel pump.
Never ran a alternator again and won many races including 2 track championships

As for boost I am doing my best to avoid putting blower on car. Even sold screw blower so as to remove temptation. Not that I do not love a blower I just know my limatations. Not running butt load of od and ton of boost is beyond that. Have everything sitting here to run ablower except the blower itself. Pulleys,idler,two new belts,intake and few other pieces,

So nio boost. Thinks for mention going bigger onlhy helped loose weight off rear pocket.

I will how ever run decent loads of nitro at some point. But may throw a mag 44 on at that point,

Steve,

Thanks for reply with example. Kind of goes with what I was thinking. Most everyone here knows I run MFI and have run nothing else for past 40 years and do not even work on cars with carbs. Being diabetic carbs are bad for me.LOL

My car on lite side of elecgtrical stuff. Data logger, delay box, trans cooler fan and transbrake are about it. Still running 16v battery with 0 cable.

.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Has anyone ever seen a et change with or w/o alternator? Asking because fail to see how.

It was a long time ago but at the time I was running 2 red top batteries with a alternator. During a bracket race it tossed the alt belt off and the car picked up almost a tenth.
Shortly after that I switched to a single 16 volt battery with no alt, and never looked back. Should note I was running MFI with mechanical fuel pump.
Never ran a alternator again and won many races including 2 track championships

Just a comparison: I run 2 red top batteries & an alternator. I don't care if I'm slow or fast, I'm a bracket racer! I've won many races & multiple championships with an alternator. There're many different ways to bracket race. I would venture to say the majority of bracket racers have an alternator!

2BKING

quote:

I would venture to say the majority of bracket racers have an alternator!

Agreed! I never charge battery at the track…..NEVER!!

If your really want the best spark possible, ditch the distributor and single coil and switch to Coil-On-Plug or Coil Near Plug and run a set of IGN1A LS Smart Coils. this will require something more advanced than a typical 7AL3 though.

quote:

Originally posted by 1.Slow_fivE.0:
If your really want the best spark possible, ditch the distributor and single coil and switch to Coil-On-Plug or Coil Near Plug and run a set of IGN1A LS Smart Coils. this will require something more advanced than a typical 7AL3 though.

Seems like more to take a part to run the valves. More parts means more things that can fail.More connections to screw up with tear downs. Why compilcate it?

May make more spark, but why. Seems if that much better fuel guys would be running them. May work for others but not something I want to mess with.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

I would venture to say the majority of bracket racers have an alternator!

Agreed! I never charge battery at the track…..NEVER!!

Most bracket racers around here spend more time sitting than working on car and that not me.If too much time I will be tearing something apart to work on even when not broken.

tAKES 2 SECOND TO PLUG AND SAME TO UNPLUG CHARGER. Maybe few more to pile cable under table. If I cannot have AC for stinking heat the car can't have alternator.LOL

Neither of which effect coil choice.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Most bracket racers around here spend more time sitting than working on car and that not me.If too much time I will be tearing something apart to work on even when not broken.

Here's my experience & it falls under spending more time sitting than working on the car; according to you.

I have raced many different vehicles for owner(s). I have two owner examples that come to mind that fall into wanting to tear something apart, tinker, tune & thought their race vehicle was a Top Fuel contender.

The 1st one was probably the deadliest race vehicle I've driven & I raced it for 3 years. The owner constantly wanted to mess with SHYT & I wouldn't let him. When we finally parted ways. He stated the car was the star of the show & not the driver. He put numerous different drivers in after me & he constantly messed with SHYT at the track. The car never won a race after I departed. The car struggled to make it out of the 1st round. It was finally sold!

The 2nd, vehicle was a 3-year-old build & was raced by the owner/others; it had never won a race. I set the vehicle up to win & that's what it did. The owner wanted too constantly mess with everything. He couldn't get it right before & now you want to screw up a winning combination. I departed ways after 3 years & the vehicle was sold.

This is me & probably most of the bracket racers. We are at the track to race, working on the race vehicle is done at home or the shop!

As for the best coil. Buy the appropriate coil for your system, most likely MSD. If you want the "Hottest" provide it with more volts & an alternator ensures that!

2BKING

I never said anything wrong with not working on car. If thats what you like then do it or nothing. For me I would not have a car that I did not work on, hell only reason to have one for me. As for not being mind set of brackets racers agree.

Some enjoy racing w/o working on car , but its not for all. Some enjoy working on car ,again not for all.

How is alternator going to provisde more volts than fully charged battery? Plus with no boost and alky injection don't need the hottest/ I do want hottest can get,but not running alternator. IMO juat something else to break or haveto be replaced. Others like or want one then they should run them. With vacuum pump,fuel pump and mag(now) soon to be distributor mounted on drive in front of engine, there is no place to put one if wanted it,which I do not.

Best appropriate coil was reason for post not really a debate on alternator or not. Yes can call AND GET RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SALESMAN who's job is to sale parts nd maybe after that make sure customer is happy wioth purchase. I ask here because folks here have run coils that worked great and one that did not do as good and have nothing at stake with which they comment on.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
How is alternator going to provisde more volts than fully charged battery?

A fully charged battery is right around 12.7v at rest depending on age/condition. Without an alternator, with a load it's downhill from there.

My data logs show a minimum of 13.6v, 13.9v maximum & a 13.7v average during the run with everything pulling a load; using an alternator.

2BKING

And I am at 18v plus at rest. I crank off axiliary
battgery at trialer if have to crank other than going to line and battery is connect as soon as get out of car after a run, Besides its barcket car and as all have said max power means nothing.

By all means run one. I am not.

Agian if I can not have AC then see no reason to have alternator. Yes I HATE heat and would run AC and loose the power if could. Not LOL there.

So far B King has convienced me to just buy more PRO MAG STUFF and screw need for any voltage after car lights.