Is there any brand of midplate that's better or worse than another? Wanting to put a steel one in my Camaro. I'm guessing I need to either shim the flywheel or use machine washers between the converter and flywheel to keep everything aligned. Will I need a longer pilot for my converter?

Wouldn't the shims be putting the convertor to trans engagement back to the original spec? New pads on convertor better as to reduce the angularity of shear on bolts.

I would not shim the flexplate! I want the flexplate flat against a machined surface. Plus you would be messing with starter engagement.

Shims between the flexplate and TC would be fine to get proper pump engagement if not overly excessive.

I don't know what manufactures call for an optimum pilot depth into the crank, but I would use my best judgement.

My 25+ year old TC's have removable pilots so I would think yours would as well.

Shim only for the TC pad. I only suggested to have them welded (reworked by MFG) as to not add undue slop for the bolts.

Most steel mid plates are in the .090 to .100 thick range. There is nothing wrong with adding a good grade 8 flat washer to get converter clearance to where it needs to be.

When I bought my midplate, it came with a shim for the flexplate. Moves the flexplate slightly away from the block but the starter still has no issues going into the ring gear teeth and the shim provides a little more metal for the converter pilot to slide into.

The pin is to center the torque converter on the crankshaft center-line. So once you figure your spacing for .125 - .150 converter pullout, as long as you can spin the converter with the pin engaging crank, you're good.

We've run none midplate converters like you will be in this instance. .100 .125 midplate is max, before you'll need to reconfigure the converter.

Barely enough torque converter to crank engagement isn't a problem.

Too much converter to crank engagement is a problem, for the thrust.

On most American V8 engines the starter engagement is based of the back of the block. When you add a mid-plate this does not change the starter engagement to the flywheel/flexplate. So you do not want to shim the flexplate or fly wheel away from the crank. It will however change your converter engagement into the trans. Depending on how thick the mid-plate is will determine the shim thickness you will need between the converter pad and flexplate.

Most steel mid-plate are around .190" thick, most converter snouts will accommodate this however 1/4" or thicker will require close attention.

On Fords and Mopar you need to make sure the starter is mounting to the mid-plate and not directly to the bell housing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-4031
This is the plate I'm looking at using, .090 steel. Anyone used this plate? I se it comes with the flywheel shim, but using washers at the converter pad will be no problem.
If using this midplate and a 1/4" aluminum frt. plate do I need a locator from the frame to the motor?

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-4031
This is the plate I'm looking at using, .090 steel. Anyone used this plate? I se it comes with the flywheel shim, but using washers at the converter pad will be no problem.
If using this midplate and a 1/4" aluminum frt. plate do I need a locator from the frame to the motor?

Yes.

I've seen cars with them and I've seen them without them. I guess it helps stability and flex.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
I've seen cars with them and I've seen them without them. I guess it helps stability and flex.

When anyone looks at yours, they're gonna know you thought about what you were doing.

forward and backward stability, exactly.

quote:

Originally posted by Eman:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-4031
This is the plate I'm looking at using, .090 steel. Anyone used this plate? I se it comes with the flywheel shim, but using washers at the converter pad will be no problem.
If using this midplate and a 1/4" aluminum frt. plate do I need a locator from the frame to the motor?

With that mid palte you would not need to use the spacer for the crank. Measure your pull out on the converter and add shims between the converter and flexplate if needed.

Yes you will want to use a engine locater if running motor plates. If the engine is in the stock location you keep one the factory motor mounts in the car.

The reason for plates is to remove the K member and use a tubular one with no factory mount provisions.

Look at the chamfer on the opening into the back of the crank for the convertor. The engine that came in my car had an Eagle crank and the bore chamfer was excessively large. The convertor snout did engage the bore after it was properly distanced from the transmission, but it was by very little.

I have a Callies crank now that the bore edge is just deburred and my stock snout convertor with a .090 steel midplate fits correctly when properly distanced from the transmission pump.