Ok. Getting conflicting info even from weld and wanted to see if anyone has first hand experience.

Have 15x15 weld Alpha1 wheels. Been running Hoosiers and wanted to give MT tires a try. MT beads bundle is thinner and MT does make a bead lock for MT and other beads .660 and smaller. They come at a small price is 279ea and you need 4.

I've heard they won't work to they will but they might leak at the bead. If the latter is true I'll put up with the little air loss. But obviously don't want to have a safety issue. Likewise don't want to drop 1100 bucks to experiment either.

Any insight would be appreciated

Stay with Hoosier, empties ain’t better and untold you last year you have the wrong tire on your car.

Changed tires. And still not consistent enough.

It's deadly then throws out a flyer.

Spoke to about 15 people this weekend with some of them being best in the business... All of them said they struggled and the MT were their solution.

Sad to because I was rolling thru the 15k races with .002 range of lights w/ Ave of .009. And 004 range day two across all the passes. Putting some good packages together on some if the best... Then the car would be off .018 all in the 60 for no reason.. Then right back on.

If you want to donate your tires for a weekend I'll make the trip. Id happily be proven wrong and save the money.

But going to give the MT tires a try.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
Changed tires. And still not consistent enough.

It's deadly then throws out a flyer.

Spoke to about 15 people this weekend with some of them being best in the business... All of them said they struggled and the MT were their solution.

Sad to because I was rolling thru the 15k races with .002 range of lights w/ Ave of .009. And 004 range day two across all the passes. Putting some good packages together on some if the best... Then the car would be off .018 all in the 60 for no reason.. Then right back on.

If you want to donate your tires for a weekend I'll make the trip. Id happily be proven wrong and save the money.

But going to give the MT tires a try.

Tire won't fix that. Have you leaked the engine?

It's not the motor mph nearly identical and other intervals within .00x. 60ft varies.

Racepak shows spin on those runs also.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
It's not the motor mph nearly identical and other intervals within .00x. 60ft varies.

Racepak shows spin on those runs also.

Do you shift on time or rpm?

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
It's not the motor mph nearly identical and other intervals within .00x. 60ft varies.

Racepak shows spin on those runs also.

Do you shift on time or rpm?

Time. Again you can see it's in the 60ft.

I've also run the gauntlet of suspension changes which honestly hasn't made it better or worse. The car again will run 4 runs within .00x. then slow up.
Also staging is all done as consistent as anyone.. Flicker the bottom ever run. Throttle enhancer, racepak dash and staging temps all kept as good as anyone. I'm very particular about that stuff.

Also does it on different tracks.

As far as the Weld bead lock ring question goes, I had heard the same thing but I have had GY, MT and now Hoosier all in the same V series wheels and rings without issue

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
As far as the Weld bead lock ring question goes, I had heard the same thing but I have had GY, MT and now Hoosier all in the same V series wheels and rings without issue

So your saying you have used all those tires are have seen to issue with same locks?

I've read as long as you have .040 crush it's more than enough. The Hoosiers have a ton of crush.

If they slowly lose air I could care less as the air is checked frequently. Week to week would be the only concern.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
As far as the Weld bead lock ring question goes, I had heard the same thing but I have had GY, MT and now Hoosier all in the same V series wheels and rings without issue

So your saying you have used all those tires are have seen to issue with same locks?

.

YES all those tires, no issues. GY had the thickest bead of all 3, they were a ***** to get on

I just had the exact same issue as you. Changed everything trying to figure it out. Put my spare convertor in and all that went away. My other converter is being rebuilt right now.

quote:

Originally posted by ts393c:
I just had the exact same issue as you. Changed everything trying to figure it out. Put my spare convertor in and all that went away. My other converter is being rebuilt right now.

Just put brand new Abruzzi converter in two weeks ago. Along with trying one prior that had too high of stall. That 7k stall converter was deadly but believe it was because it was way too high and just not putting down the power. 60ft were .04 slower. With that, could care less how fast the car is just want it consistent. But didn't like it buzzing like that at those rpms. Went to semis in that race before going .0007 red on my usual luck of the bye round and getting paired. I dread hearing my name called for the bye

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
As far as the Weld bead lock ring question goes, I had heard the same thing but I have had GY, MT and now Hoosier all in the same V series wheels and rings without issue

So your saying you have used all those tires are have seen to issue with same locks?

.

YES all those tires, no issues. GY had the thickest bead of all 3, they were a ***** to get on

Wish I knew if the alpha wheels and v series were the same construction. Were yours 15inch? They says the 16s are different in the bead bundles

Any clue on the MT how much crush you were getting on the bundle? Tonight I was going to clamp and measure the gap with the tire excluded. Then measure the bead to see how much crush I would have.
The other idea is to have a spacer water jet out and place it in between the bead and beadlock to get more crush.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
Changed tires. And still not consistent enough.

It's deadly then throws out a flyer.

Spoke to about 15 people this weekend with some of them being best in the business... All of them said they struggled and the MT were their solution.


But going to give the MT tires a try.

All 15 of those guys are right. Listen to them.

Mounted the tires up by measuring it looks like these have about .080 crush on the bead.

Car set overnight and no leakage.

Also did a few hits on them with tire to locks marked. No movement. Granted can't get the bite like you have on a track.

Hoping to head to Quaker tonight.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
Mounted the tires up by measuring it looks like these have about .080 crush on the bead.

Car set overnight and no leakage.

Also did a few hits on them with tire to locks marked. No movement. Granted can't get the bite like you have on a track.

Hoping to head to Quaker tonight.

Report back and let us know how it works out for you.

I mostly use Hoosier, but I have put Mickey's on my beadlocks with no difference in lock ring fit.

Mike. Thanks. What wheels are you running?

Ok. I ran the tires this weekend at Quaker. Not my normal track so can't compare apples to apples.

Bead locks held no pressure loss. Monitored tire to wheel position. Passengers moved about 1" then stopped. Drivers about 5 inches then stopped after about 4th run.

First 60ft was 1.240 which was much better than the usual 1.26 but different track. First night 60ft varied about .013 which is not acceptable.

Next day car was just more consistent overall with 4 runs varying about .007 total in 1/8. 60ft varied about .01 but end ET good. Other intervals also tight and consistent. The car may have been breaking 60ft with wheels up hence the variation. I was there alone so nobody to video and verify.

I'll be waiting for final verdict on my usual track. So we shall see.

Should add others complaining about track and times moving but that is the name of the game to overcome.