PICK UP A 5GALLON PALE OF SAE 30 ROYAL PURPLE HIGH PERFORMANCE OIL ANY ONE HAVE ANY ISSUES USING THIS IN A SBC BRAKET ENGINE

We use the 20/50 synthetic in our motors bearings look great after 200+ passes

Only issue we had with it is methanol. It doesn't mix well with it and it would fill up vacuum pump, tank, lines with a sludge.

I use the RP XPR 20/50. The XPR works well preventing oil dilution caused by exotic fuels like methanol and alcohol... Q16 user...

I GUESS WHAT IM ASKING IS WILL THE 30WT BE OK EVERY ONE SEEMS TO RUN THE 20/50WT

What does your builder advise? Straight or multi?
A little better info on the engine would be helpful. In my SB days in the 70's, i used Wolfs Head Straight 50.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by 3677:
I GUESS WHAT IM ASKING IS WILL THE 30WT BE OK EVERY ONE SEEMS TO RUN THE 20/50WT

Was the engine assembled using a dial bore guage or plastigage???

BTW on a side note, royal purple is valvoline synthetic, but with dye in it. Price the two.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

The only thing I put straight 30 weight oil in, is a lawn mower.
That being said, a SBC isn't much different, so why not use it?

(HOLD THE FLAME THROWERS, I AM JUST KIDDING!!)

My true opinion, it depends on your engine build, (clearances, max RPM, oil pump, valve train components, etc), and the climate you plan to race in. If your combo is fairly mild, and your race days are moderate temps, (above 50*, below 100*), I think it would be fine, just get the oil temp up some before you romp hard on it. If your bearing clearances are very loose, keep an eye on your oil pressure, you may want to re-think the viscosity (My $.02)

We use straight 30W Schaeffers Micron Moly in our 406 sbc with alky carb. If it is cold out, below 50, I use a block heater. Normally I just warm everything up slowly and thoroughly before making a run. Never rush that process in my opinion.

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
Normally I just warm everything up slowly and thoroughly before making a run. Never rush that process in my opinion.

^^^ Agree 100%

Even in my daily driver I get the water and oil temp up before I get on it hard. The bearing and all other clearances changes as motor gets at operating temp.

On my racecars I crank it up and lean it down to raise the idle and build heat in the motor. I like to get water temp up to 195* or so before I rev the motor or put any load on it. Then I shut it down and like to go into water box at 160*

Use what weight oil your builder recommends for the clearances you have in your motor.

One thing I have found is a heavier weight oil does not drain back into pan nearly as quick and you can run low at the top end of the track. So if you are going to run a heavy oil you may look into making sure you have plenty of good drain holes. Like on some heads the drain back holes are not very big and I have seen the head gasket block part of that hole. Now put a thicker oil up top and it does not drain back as quick as it should. Verified with my data logger with heavier oil it would uncover the oil pump at finish line when I hit the brakes. With lighter oil it never will. If you have valve covers off and are pouring oil in it if it does not drain down fast it will do that wide open to.

You can also pick up some ET with a thinner oil. If I remember right I picked up .10 by just going from 20-50W oil to 10-30W oil. Plus the oil drains back into pan quicker. Once again though you need to run right oil for the clearances in your motor.

Valvoline is good oil, as for Royal Purple being dyed Valvoline is that a FACT or an OPINION?

How do you know? Not arguing with you but it seems like a bold statement to make if you do not have proof.

RP is owned and produced by.

Calumet Specialty Products Partners, L.P.

https://www.calumetspecialty.com/

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
RP is owned and produced by.

Calumet Specialty Products Partners, L.P.

https://www.calumetspecialty.com/

Then why would Royal Purple buy from a competitor and dye it and rebrand it? Hmmm. The plot sickens.

Royal Purple was acquired in 2012 by Calumet.

RP is one of their divisions (Calumet)
Royal Purple HPS and XPR lines of engine oils are formulated with a higher concentration of the zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additive and are suitable for ALL flat tappet and roller tappet camshaft valve trains.
RP is produced by Calumet.
Valvoline is produced by Ashland oil.



https://www.calumetspecialty.c...ubricants-chemicals/

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

Royal Purple 10W-40 synthetic in the Summer and 10W-30 synthetic in the winter. I never had a problem, bearings look new after 200+ runs, the engine loves the stuff!

There is a LOT of excellent racing motor oil on the market, Royal Purple is one of them.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Royal Purple 10W-40 synthetic in the Summer and 10W-30 synthetic in the winter. I never had a problem, bearings look new after 200+ runs, the engine loves the stuff!

There is a LOT of excellent racing motor oil on the market, Royal Purple is one of them.

Bob

I do not doubt the Quality of Royal Purple one bit, I just not sure I believed that it was rebranded Valvoline which is also very good oil.

I'll stick with my Amsoil thank you.

I was hooked up and ran XRP for years. Also syndrolic 41 in the Glide.
Top shelf products, but pricey.
Shaffers gets my vote for “race oil” value.
Lots of lab test data on both but not the SAE 30 mentioned

I have never heard of Syngrolic 41. ? Oops sorry,
Just saw it, another RP product.
just noticed they produce a Spec oil also for NG engines called Synerlec. Learn something new every day.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by adv ET 266:
Shaffers gets my vote for “race oil” value.
Lots of lab test data on both but not the SAE 30 mentioned

Paul, what specific oil did you run?