What's your pick, figuring a 4.125" standard bore space, standard cam location and bearings type build?
And why?
Known issues with oil pan fitment, etc.?

If you have a preference for a source of finished blocks, add that in your comment.

I am just starting to research the modern options.

I kinda like the one with the dowel pins in the mains, but that's just me.

If going faster was the goal, I'd probably lean toward the one that accepts LS heads.

Following myself, same scenario. Would like to gather parts to build an identical motor to duplicate the one I have. Very minimal interest in going faster.

I’ve built several with both Dart and Motown blocks. I prefer the Motown. I found it more “user friendly “. Oil pans fit it better when using 4 bolt mains in all 5 positions.

I'm having difficulties with the Dart options, dipstick on the wrong side, tall lifter bosses, and such, and haven't been able to see much about the World products except where to buy one, looking hard at the Brodix at this point....

Have ya looked into the Brodix blocks-American made but need linebored out of the box-about5-6 hun cheaper that dart oh ya I have Dart but its 19 years old!

Goob, I think they all have tall lifter bosses now. Last Motown I did had dipstick on driver side. That’s a part of the user friendly in my opinion.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
Goob, I think they all have tall lifter bosses now. Last Motown I did had dipstick on driver side. That’s a part of the user friendly in my opinion.

I've just started digging, having a hard time finding much detail on the different Motown stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by vetman:
Have ya looked into the Brodix blocks-American made but need linebored out of the box-about5-6 hun cheaper that dart oh ya I have Dart but its 19 years old!

Leaning toward the Brodix, I'll consult my machinist before I pull that trigger though. He wants to retire soon, and I don't blame him.

I’ve used World products once and that block was junk in one season. Straight 4 bolt main caps and the main webs cracked right up to the cam journals. The cracks started at the main bolt holes if I recall right. The fractured casting crumbled apart like it was granular sand.
There’s no doubt the owner of that engine had tuning issues as it was EFI on Alcohol but I still felt the block should not have failed like it did. Nothing else was badly damaged and it was running when pulled out of his car.

Dart blocks are great and I did one last year.
Was a new 4.125 bore and dropped an exhaust valve head into one cylinder.
Piston and head heavy damage. Block was ok and went to 4.155 and is running fine after a lot of new parts

I used Bow tie blocks in the past and they were excellent and made a lot of power and were far better than std blocks.

I’d go with a Dart

Speedmaster. I have had 2 of them, and both were very good quality, and both made north of 1500hp to the crank surviving brutal torture. I believe they also use dowl pins in the main caps.

Does anyone know the availability of these (all of the brands) blocks right now?

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
Does anyone know the availability of these (all of the brands) blocks right now?

Maybe never is where it seems to be heading.

I'm digging a little at a time.

I have a Brodix block 427 and my freshen up showed some main cap walk. There was another there with the same issue. just something to look or ask about.

i have a 406 in a Dart block and never had this issue.

ep

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
Does anyone know the availability of these (all of the brands) blocks right now?

I've seen quite a few new blocks, all types on DRR facebook market place.

Priced as new from manufacturer (retail), I'd imagine, due to shortages.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Hoskinson:
Speedmaster. I have had 2 of them, and both were very good quality, and both made north of 1500hp to the crank surviving brutal torture. I believe they also use dowl pins in the main caps

I'm gonna buy one soon as they're available. Do a big bore 360 china head hydraulic roller BBC pump gas with 1.9 ratio rockers and solid roller lifters.

I'll have to beat the muscle car crowd off me, trying to buy it after I scream it on the dyno.

The US ship has sailed to china, may as well have some laughs in between the catastrophe.

I have had good results from both the Dart Little M and Iron Eagle small blocks. For most people the Little M is probably better choice, it is lighter and requires little custom parts to build a good solid motor.

The Iron Eagle is very heavy and has wider oil pan rails and raised cam. Also comes in a tall deck version. If you are going to build a 434 or smaller I would go with the Little M.

There are some new versions of the Little M with raised cams and other options but do not know the availability of them. But if you can get raised cam and larger cam core it is always a good investment.

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
I have a Brodix block 427 and my freshen up showed some main cap walk. There was another there with the same issue. just something to look or ask about.

i have a 406 in a Dart block and never had this issue.

ep

Interesting, the catalog shows that all the Brodix blocks need the mains align bored / honed.