99 holiday rambler endeavor, Cummins 5.9 no crank.

Ignition switch works but doesn't turn on instrument panel or crank engine.

I can back feed gauge power and the gauges and warning lights will come on for a few seconds

It may be different on yours then mine as I have an older monaco dynasty but my ignition switch is like the older style GM ignitions. It has multiple wires going to it from the back with no actual plug with simple spade connectors. I had an issue and took mine apart to find that some of the connections had come loose or were about to fall off. In my case occasionally the gauges or low air indicators wouldn't work on start up. Kevin

I think there is an ignition circuit fuse also,ive done that before

Monaco has an 800 tech line that's free.should be in your owners manual.they have been great and sent me wiring diagrams and belt routing etc.very helpfull

A friend had a similar issue. We found the Allison control box had some fuses in it. Replaced fuses, everything lit up and started.

Had a similar problem with a 99 Endeavor. Problem ended up being no power at the trans control pad. Ran a wire from a keyed source to fix it. Took a long time to diagnose that one!

I managed to make it to the track yesterday.

I eventually found the remote starter solenoid didn't have any power. This is a solenoid that only interrupts the starter trigger wire, not the main starter power like an old Ford.

When I powered up the solenoid with a jump box the dash lit up also. The starter solenoid is right next to the hydraulic power solenoid and I happened to have a 4 gauge wire that was just the right length.

Turns out this setup was not allowing the alternator to charge the chassis batteries so I had to hold the aux start switch while driving (put jumper cables on eventually).

I still need to go find the original source of the starter solenoid input power. I checked every fuse I could find. Based on the size of the wire (6 gauge I think), it would probably be a 50 amp or higher fuse/circuit breaker and I haven't found any of those. I do have some maxis, but they're only 30 if I remember right.

I also made some more work for myself in the troubleshooting process. I tried to back feed a gauge harness and apparently wiped out some of the gauges

The trans control worked the whole time even before the jumper was in place. I don't see any fuses anywhere near it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BJs Wild Ride,

bj
if you call Monaco tech they can get you right to fuse locations and diagrams...Monaco has all the holiday rambler info

quote:

Originally posted by jenavet:
bj
if you call Monaco tech they can get you right to fuse locations and diagrams...Monaco has all the holiday rambler info

Thanks, will do. That idea crossed my mind while I was crawling around in the grass fending off snakes (for real, even got in a fist fight with a giant spider), but I didn't think they would be open Saturday.

quote:

Turns out this setup was not allowing the alternator to charge the chassis batteries so I had to hold the aux start switch while driving (put jumper cables on eventually).

That's because it replenishes the chassis battery or batteries first, and then the house batteries get charged. A function of the isolator. Keeps the battery banks separated.

http://www.dyersonline.com/int...TStHHkxoCpZoQAvD_BwE


My Class C MH has one of these for a gasoline engine. Once I read how it works I understood what it does. I installed a starting battery disconnect and it would still start the engine. Had me scratching my head before I learned what this does. This device takes the place of the old high current diode style battery isolators used in the past. A lot more complicated than a simple isolator...

Might not have anything to do with your problem but I thought I'd post it anyway...

I think the strange one is confused.

Engine and generator running with chassis batteries discharging. I hit the aux switch and the genny started charging the chassis.

I have one of those monster modules or whatever that charges different things at different times depending on what's running and how much voltage it has. But I'm positive there is no logic in it that prevents the engine alternator from charging the chassis battery.

I agree that the genny wasn't charging the chassis probably because the house batteries were too low and that's a logic state in that monster module. But the main problem was the alternator wasnt charging anything.

Edit: now that I read scdiv1s link I see it is BIRD not Monster

quote:

I think the strange one is confused.

I agree but was being nice and not mentioning that...

The above device is just a PC board with a relay.

It senses battery voltage at both starting and house batteries. Connects and disconnects depending on what it senses voltage wise...

Mine has a switch on the drivers seat that I did not even know was there. Manual override aux start......

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

My wife called Monaco yesterday and wasted almost an hour before they finally told her they didn't have any data for anything more than 10 years old.

Any idea where I can get detailed wiring diagrams for this 1999/2000 Endeavor??

You stated you checked all the fuses. Are you sure there are no fuses or fusible links off the batteries? Molded /sealed type..also look at the feeds off the starter. This reason being said. On some service calls i go out on and the unit has a dead dash/key on, normally a Buss Fuse/fusable link is the issue. Look in the fuse panel closely and see if in fact there is a relay called start/run relay. Some instances i run into dead relays. (power up). What chassis is this? Is this a 12 Valve with the large fuel shutoff solenoid next to the pump? Sorry can't be of more help.

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
You stated you checked all the fuses. Are you sure there are no fuses or fusible links off the batteries? Molded /sealed type..also look at the feeds off the starter. This reason being said. On some service calls i go out on and the unit has a dead dash/key on, normally a Buss Fuse/fusable link is the issue. Look in the fuse panel closely and see if in fact there is a relay called start/run relay. Some instances i run into dead relays. (power up). What chassis is this? Is this a 12 Valve with the large fuel shutoff solenoid next to the pump? Sorry can't be of more help.

Freightliner chassis. 24v with a vp44. I think there were 2 run/sense relays but nothing labeled start run. I will look for fusible links on the batteries and starter, didn't think about that. Every relay I can find appears to be working except for 1.

There's a larger sized relay next the injection pump that was tucked down inside a bunch of wiring. I think a friend of mine told me this might be the start/run (hard to remember I was in such a frenzy trying to get the stupid thing running in time to make 1st qualifier). No power going to that big relay. I tried to back feed the 30 terminal and it acted like I blew a fuse (one quick spark and then nothing). This is where I will start when I go back at it tomorrow but was hoping to have a diagram to help.