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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi 14v alternator won't lastGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| 14v alternator won't last | Login/Join |
| DRR Pro |
Just for some other ideas, you could leave what you have and add a second disconnect switch going to the alternator, under the hood or in the rear trunk area if accessible. Although I use the 4 pole disconnect that I linked to, and is accessible in trunk area, it’s not the master disconnect for my car. I leave this 4 pole disconnect always on during a race event weekend, turning off for towing. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
My car has always been wired like this since I bought it nearly 10 years ago. It was 12 volt and worked for 4 years perfectly intil I went to adjustable regulator and has never worked more than a couple months at a time since. The 4 post looks like a great option. So it can be used to cut main power and alternator power while being kept separate? | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Chad at Jones racing products says I need to run it direct to the battery with its own cutoff. The 4 post may be a workable option. He also told me my charge cable should be no bigger than the positive post. He says a 10ga wire is correct for a 100 amp alternator. He says a cable too big causes an issue with overheating the alternator. Powermaster had me switch to a much larger charge cable and it has never worker more than 2 races since then. Coincidence or not, I'm not sure.This message has been edited. Last edited by: inferno camaro, | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Thanks for sharing all the advice from the places you spoke with. It explains why one becomes uncertain what advice is best for their application. That advice about using 10 ga for 100 amp alternator because of the alternator charging stud size or overheating is not correct. Are you sure this is what he advised? Try asking him what a 100 amp alternator they are selling outputs in amps at idle (2500 rpm alternator speed)? The Conductor Diameter of #2 welding cable is 0.3” diameter. Alternator charging studs are 1/4”. I agree with Powermaster on 2 gauge for charging 90/100 amp output at idle. I won’t use anything less than #4 on a charging cable over 10’ long no matter the alternator size. There’s #2 on my 150 amp Powermaster that’s 9 years old running every season. It shares the #2 starter cable going back to a 4 pole disconnect. The other side of the 4 pole disconnect is the clean electrical side of the ignition/ control/ display system. The adjacent Master Disconnect powers the relay board.   | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Yes he said an alternator with 100 amp max a 10 gauge wire is what they want. I have a #4 charge cable and it's is 11' long. The one I'm looking at getting is 100 at idle 140 max. I sent him pictures and specs from my car so he could come up with what I need and haven't heard back yet. They don't build one in the cs131 case which is what I have now so will need mounts and all.
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| DRR Trophy |
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| DRR Trophy |
I made a mistake and posted Chad at House of Payne give me that advice he is from Jones racing products. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Me going 16v and 130 case... Powermaster 578026 and ordering Powermaster #118 pulley (2.62” dia) and switch out the 6 grv pulley that it comes with.  | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I just talked to Jones racing products today and he says 140amp max 100 at idle 10gauge minimum and 8 gauge max. It wont fit my mount so thinking it may be cheaper and easier just to go 16V and forget it. The adjustable is $350 plus brackets and mounts and cables and bla bla bla. 16v alt is nearly $100 cheaper by the time I add new pully on mandrel (wants to move alt up to be mid mount) with brackets and mounts who knows what else. Starting to think I'll just keep putting a charger on it  | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
For reference, I have a 16V HOP 100 amp Lightning mini, it is driven at 2:1. I just switched from #8 to #4 welding cable. From alternator thru 4 pole switch then to D1600 16V battery cable is right at 19 feet. Using a DC digital amprobe, the engine running at 1500 rpm at idle with 16 inch fan, WP, FP running it is pulling right at 60 amps. Alternator is putting out 50 amps so basically a 10 amp defisate. at 2500 rpm the alternator is putting out 90 amps. Using the battery charger between rounds has been the norm for me for years so no biggy to hook it up, its a Rock/Moroso smart charger with 25 amp max outputThis message has been edited. Last edited by: Big Steve, | |||
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| DRR Pro |
^^^^^ Steve, Excellent report on the charging system under load at idle in your truck. Is the 24’ for alternator cable length that you listed correct?? Sounds excessive, just wondering. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
24 feet was a typo on my part, I ordered 20 feet and used 19 feet. PST truck has a 125 inch WB so basically front to very rear with a few turns. For what its worth I asked Mark Payne about going from #8 to #4, he said it certainly wont hurt but unless your over 60 amps load you wont see much difference, I never checked the amps before for I made the change But I figured for $60 and and a bunch of zip ties what the hell lets do it right | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Steve, you have battery voltage recorded in prior Grid DA with old #8 cable. Try comparing the new DA battery voltage at idle and during the run with #4 cable. I’d be interested in seeing results. I find battery voltage on Grid DA to be somewhat selective. It can vary based on how one has Grid wired. A better test would be to meter at the battery while at idle to see what the voltage displays. The current charging and draw test results that Steve posted was Excellent information. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Just adding my two cents here. On my old s/g Vega it always had a plain 65 amp Chevy alternator that I could get a replacement for from any parts store anywhere. The change wire ran directly to battery positive post. Battery was at rear corner of car diagonally opposite the alternator mounted on engine. Batteries were always weak at end of the day if going late in the rounds. Never failed to start but spin slow. Changed charge wire from 10ga to 4ga no other charges. Voltage at battery terminal at idle jumped from around 12.4 volts to 13.0 and 13.8 at 2500 engine rpm. It made enough difference that I had to readjust the fuel pressure regulator to bring pressure back down to 6 psi. | |||
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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi 14v alternator won't last
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