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DRR Pro |
roughly .700 into the run | |||
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DRR Pro |
jenavet there is something magic at .7.ok i had a lot of trouble just to get this posted.i think this indy and tulsa.its not clear but it was 5 and 6% if this was the runs i tried for.when i move runs from my logger ,i have trouble finding them in imgr honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Still trying to understand why you need a steel bell for varying converter charge pressure. I get the thrust bearing deal but the steel bell housing, um nope. | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
I'd probably think about trying a steel can, if I were all in serious about it. Although, I'm real conservative (rational) in approach. In other words my tolerance for flames and fire is low. I have a low flash point so to speak. https://youtu.be/AY-qTYGum28 This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
12 inches of vacuum at 22lbs of boost, that's impressive. Looks to be like 600 or so rpm fall back at the shift, loose is fast down low. Thats what I was trying to get across in a earlier post abouts jenevets converter was a little tight down low with 900-1000.fall back. Rusty, your converter is very close to mine other that I am a bit looser on the top end due to a 3.70 gear | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I don't think anyone here realizes that this thread has been disrupted by the famous "cone killer"
6.41@221 (so far) 4.11@178 off the shelf/built it myself | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I did but was biting my tongue.... | |||
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DRR Pro |
yes these are not the runs i was trying to show,my dropback varies with boost and shift point.like i said have other stators but i like what is going on most of the time.if my flash gets close to shift and drop back is near shift then i raise shift.up north i had to drop boost,at denver had to raise it lol.this converter has been more than 1/1 in another car honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Pro |
Whose converter rusty? | |||
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DRR Pro |
coan with a 32.5 stator.not sure which pump is in it.fti and abruzzi have donewell for us honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Would you like to talk about the semifinal round race my opponent was declared loser and loaded up in his trailer, up until a track official lied to put the semifinal round loser back in the race and in the final round after already he had his car loaded up in the trailer for forty five minutes? Or gears? I'm well armed with plenty of ammunition for either. Fire away at will. Liberals, all accusation (hot air) no Evidence. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
NO!!! Please keep your cone killing arguments off this site. There’s 37000 posts of you arguing about it on the bullet, keep that junk over there. So far here you’ve been mostly helpful with only a little trolling. Please try to keep it that way! | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Talk to Sammy, apparently the Truth of the matter is a thorn in his side, he can't stop scratching. As far as rpm at the stripe goes I'd suggest one of these hold a tenth and half and take less stripe than you win the tree by, and your win light comes on 100% of the time. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Elite |
We do and this has been free of that issue thus far. So please don’t start it up. If you don’t like him, there is the ignore feature. But if we start with all the banter, every thread will be ruined. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
For general info all the arrows represent stall, the two in the circle are a nitrous progressor adding two percentages of 500hp nitrous. This is two different converters, same day, same power, same parameters on the nitrous progressor. For the red converter to match the flash stall at the leave, the progressor would need an additional 150hp to 200hp to match the flash stall of the yellow. As you can see by the two arrows on the right at the shift, the stall difference on the two converters is around 200 rpms, so we'd need another 75hp there for the red converter to match the yellow drop back stall. With a needle bearing thrust (additional converter pressure), the red converter (cortina 9") would be an example of a converter you could do a lot with a single dump on the front or back side of the converter, or both, because it's low stall off the T-Brake. It's slipping 6.5 % here but up to speed (driveshaft) with dumps probably be around 2 or 3% maybe less. This is a car with 1350 hp. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Trophy |
really has nothing to do with liking him or not, just pointing out the fact he has no idea what he's speaking about and apparently some here are buying it. Those flintsone graphs and talk of steel can BS are quite comical. I think he may actually be from another planet after reading the gibberish. the last image with arrows and percentage quotes looks like one of those bigfoot sighting photos. 6.41@221 (so far) 4.11@178 off the shelf/built it myself | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Maybe we can take that red arrow maker away from him...……….. And BTW the graph showing the DS rpm exceeding the engine rpm that Greg posted is very common place in big inch high HP combo's which that has been the case for a number of years!(at least 2015) | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
Comprehension levels vary, I'm really speaking to rusty or anyone with a comprehension level of converter function, but while you're here Sammy, do tell us how it is the arrows don't represent stall? For my entertainment. While you're at it tell how much additional horsepower is needed for the red converter to stall the same after the shift as the yellow converter, hell also say how additional power is needed for the red to match the flash stall of the yellow at the leave? This oughta be entertaining. | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
If the data says the turbine is passing the pump, the data is saying to add gear in order to go faster correct? Is this the fundamental to put the data to the test to verify the turbine is passing the pump within the converter? It is overdrive as has been said correct? If overdrive exists as has been said, you have another gear at your disposal which means you need more rear gear ratio correct? If you wanna be a gearhead, you might wanna think about being good with gear ratio's, and rpm's for the best overall power average at the back tire a to b. You can have all the data in the world but if you don't understand the fundamentals, the data can't help you. Hypothetically speaking, If overdrive exists, adding gear ratio will cause overdrive to occur earlier in the run in order to optimize the use of the overdrive which is presumed to exist, according to the data correct? This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
I've gotta do a better job of not feeding the Liberals, is all. While we're speaking gear ratio's and finish line rpm's, I have an interesting scenario I'm kicking around someone may be able to contribute on. I've got a 9" converter which slips 9.5% at 5.19 131mph carrying 3000 lbs with a 4.51 gear crossing 7800 rpm 1050 hp. I need that same converter to slip 6 - 7% crossing 8300 - 8400 rpm with the same 87" rollout tire at the stripe, with 137 - 138 mph power, what gear will I need to accomplish this off the trailer? | |||
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