quote:

Originally posted by sean72:
I had a look at the front end today , from the research I done I could not find any info on my exact shock but I found infomation on newer style similar shocks,which was the same as what Slopoke said. Remove spring , push rod down turn until it drops which engages it and there is 4-5 half turns , with full anti clockwise the softest and full clockwise the stiffest. I did this and found that mine has two full turns of adjustment ,first shock didn't know where it started but second shock it was half turn from full clockwise so assuming they still adjust the same it was half turn from full stiff. I have now set them at full adjustment anticlockwise which hopefully is full soft .
While I had the spring out tested it and they are 250 lb springs . Also check front end travel from resting to wheels just off ground and there is 3" off travel.
Curly1 when i first started racing this car i did put a cable tie on one of the shocks rods and it was moving can't remember how much , but will put a go pro camera under it for next meeting.

So for next meeting I going to try 1} the new front shock adjustment which is hopefully full loose . 2} go pro camera 3} 1/2 pound more air and 4} rear shock adjustment , not sure where to start , was thinks of trying going from 8 clicks on rebound (ext) to 6 clicks and on the compression going from 4 click to 6 clicks what do people think of those adjustments?

Thanks
Sean

I think those are some pretty good adjustments. I may go from 8 clicks on rebound (extension) to 4 clicks, but 6 is a good start

Make sure that your toe is correct on the front wheels... loosening up the front suspension can expose other potential problems, especially if the car feels loose on the steering... but your car does look like it goes straight and stays straight

I would not adjust the rear shocks until you video with the GoPro to find out what it is doing. I suspect you are not getting much movement with rear suspension.

Have to ask the question as I recently chased a problem on my car......How old are the shocks? or rather....How many runs on the shocks?

Despite our best intentions, sometimes parts don't work as well as they used to. If it's been a few years, consider getting them rebuilt.

quote:

Originally posted by Bob Nichols:
Have to ask the question as I recently chased a problem on my car......How old are the shocks? or rather....How many runs on the shocks?

Despite our best intentions, sometimes parts don't work as well as they used to. If it's been a few years, consider getting them rebuilt.

Shameless plug here. I recently had some shocks custom built by Shane with competitive suspension solutions and I couldn’t be happier. If you decide to get some schocks built or rebuilt... Shane is a great guy

Rear shocks have about 150 passes on them , front shocks I don't know as they came with the car when i purchased it . I was keen to run the car with the new front shock adjustment first to see if it makes any difference then if needed get them serviced.

Post an adjustment video for us once you make a run

saw this on another post and though it could be beneficial for you.
The first movement on any car is going to be extension, but unless you get into the $18k inverters your shocks are going to be able to control that initial movement because it's too quick (the shock travel velocity is too high).

The second movement is when the car squats, the weight is transferring back and this is where shock adjustments start to help(Compression or bump). generally speaking the compression adjustment is good for the first .25-.6 second or so of the run. if you have too much wheel speed at this point you want to loosen the compression/bump and if you don't have enough wheel speed you will want to tighten it.

The 3rd movement is when the shock/spring starts to extend again. you're basically deciding how quickly the allow some of the weight to transfer back forward. if you have too much wheel speed from .4 - 1 second or so you will want to loosen the extension/rebound and if you don't have enough wheel speed you should tighten it.

Remember, if you have nitrogen or CO2 assisted shocks the pressure in those will affect both your shock adjustments, but it will affect compression/bump more. Also, always start at full tight and adjust from there. you number of clicks should be how far you are away from full tight. Never go to full tight either. the internals of a shock are a needle valve in their simplest for and how tight or loose the adjustment is equates to how far the needle is from closing off the orifice. if you are full tight there will be no fluid moving at all and the shock won't function correctly.

Hi , Been a while but last outing was not good . The changes for this meet were increased tire pressure from 9.5 psi to 10 psi and adjusted the front shocks to full loose. I didn't have a crew member to video so the only footage i have is from a gopro camera mounted under rear of car as curly1 suggested. It threw a rod out near the finish line on first pass of the day. The run is in full speed and slow mo.

https://youtu.be/PJcR0bR7m4w