Finally made it to the point where I can bleed the brakes on the car. I have Aerospace brakes on all 4 corners and bought the Mityvac MV8000 to be able to bleed them on my own. Has anyone used this bleeding tool? and did you have good luck with it?

I started to use it on the rear passenger corner and was still getting quite a bit of air after pumping it up 3 or 4 times and then opening the bleeder as instructed. Since they are new lines does it make sense to take a long time to clear all of the air? It may also be that I wasn't getting a really tight seal on the bleeder. It says to pull about 2 inches in fluid into the canister and after the 3rd or 4th time I finally got to about 1 inch of fluid.

The hand pump setup I bought came with some grease of some sort to put on the bleeder threads to seal them.

you are pulling air either around the hose where it goes over the bleeder or thru the threads....

I agree that you are pulling air from around the bleeder threads. I’ve got one of those MV 8000 that I used on motorcycles but would never use it on a car. Reminds me of one of them old hand exercise tools.

I have a Pela PL-650 oil extractor that I use to remove oil from sealed diffs, transmissions and other items that do not have a drain plug. This is also the best brake bleeder that I ever used. 3 pumps and it’ll suck a master cylinder reservoir dry. What I like about this, is I can see how much fluid is extracted and then stop and refill the master cylinder before it’s empty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ-lYY6oFOU

I take the bleeder out, and pull directly on the caliper. Works like a charm.

RIP

I have never used the mighty vac you have but I have heard nothing but positive about it.

I got one of these cheap ones the other day and it worked really well. Quick, easy and cheap.
https://www.autozone.com/test-...leeder-kit/46839_0_0

Opening 1 bleeder screw at a time and allowing it to gravity bleed works just as well. Using the vacuum to pull fluid through an empty system gets it flowing faster, I always finish with someone pumping the pedal.

I've had nothing but success using a Mityvac for years on passenger cars, race cars and motorcycles. As stated you will pull a lot of air around the bleeder screw but as long as you maintain a good vacuum you will be alright. That drawing directly from the caliper sounds like a good idea.

I used one of these power bleeders, it has a adapter that goes over the masters and it pressurizes the fluid through the system. You put a clear line on the bleeder and open the bleeder and watch all the air come out. It makes short work to bleed brakes and I also use it to flush the brake system on my truck. IMO, using pressure to push the fluid through the system is better than using a vacuum to pull it though. Well worth the money. They have adapters for all master cylinders.

Good luck.


https://www.motiveproducts.com...-car-and-marine-kits

Used my MityVac today to bleed the brakes, seems to be a successful experience. I just have a few questions.

After doing all four wheels, the brake better is extremely stiff now. Is this because of air still in the lines? I did struggle a little keeping a good seal.

Also, I have an adjustable prop valve for the front brakes, What is a good setting to start with? Currently, the adjuster screw is backed all the way out. Could the adjuster screw be causing the brake pedal to be stiff?

If there is air still in the lines would it be best to pump up the brakes best as possible and open the bleeder valve on each wheel until the remaining air comes out?

Thanks again for all of your help.

I have been doing a little more research on the reason behind the stiff brake pedal and when I went back and read the adjustable prop valve instructions, it says that brake pressure is reduced to a maximum of 57% when the adjustor knob is turned all the way out and it has full pressure when turned all the way in. Since I have the knob turned all the way out, could this be the reason behind the stiff brake pedal?

I called Aerospace and they said the stiff pedal could be due to an incorrect pedal ratio. I guess I have several things to check when I get home tonight.

quote:

Originally posted by bcMOD3X3X:
I called Aerospace and they said the stiff pedal could be due to an incorrect pedal ratio. I guess I have several things to check when I get home tonight.

It could possibly be a brake master cylinder with a bore that's too big.

As a lark recently, I took and old bleeder screw and drilled a small hole in the middle of it, right down the hole in the tip.

The idea was to make a bleeder screw that could be bled while it was screwed in, eliminating the air leaks through the threads when using my hand vac pump.

Performance was so-so. I still had air bubbles come into the clear tube via leakage between the tube itself and the bleeder screw.

I've had good luck with gravity bleeding, but on occasion I'll temporarily install 'Speed Bleeders' to get most of the air out, then finish by re-installing the regular bleeders and gravity bleeding the last bit of air out.

proportion valve regulated output goes to rear brakes. Over 70% braking is front wheels they need full pressure. Rears will lock up with full pressure.