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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Dragster brake rotors for the umpteenth time !Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Dragster brake rotors for the umpteenth time ! | Login/Join |
DRR S/Pro |
I don't do pictures on here but my Mark Williams brakes arrived yesterday and I installed one side just to check the fit....perfect. Nice stuff.... | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I understand the brake pressure thing, up to a point, but.....pressing the pedal harder results in more brake pressure. If you're pressing the brake pedal as hard as you can, and not stopping like you should you need more brake pressure. If you don't need maximum effort on the pedal brake pressure isn't the problem. Too much brake pressure is one of the causes of top end wrecks. I used to be a people person, but people ruined that. | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
I believe much of the brake pressure thing is a scapegoat excuse for the real brake problem. Heat, and on some it is flex. I mean if it makes enough pressure to lock up the brakes it is making pressure. I have a brake pressure sensor on my data logger and pressures are with in range yet I like most everyone else here have had problems. I like the looks of the TBM brakes because the brackets and the calipers are made of steel for strength. They say the design of their rotors helps them to run cooler and that may be true but I doubt it is a huge difference. To make a big difference there is going to have to be more cooling air in and out. The bottom line is the pressure causes flex, the friction creates heat and wear. A certain amount of wear is normal but I think with a good strong design and better cooling much of our problems could be resolved. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
You will be very happy with MW, I couldnt get 1 season on the Strange rotors on my dragster. I made the switch to MW in 2014 and still have the same rotors. I just removed the Strange axles and installed MW axles so now my rear end is 100% MW | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Bob, Did you switch to the Wilwood new dynamic hat/rotor combination, with the floating rotor and large snap ring? If so what pads are you using? I installed these Wilwoods on our new car TD October then went to Rockingham for the divisional and lets just say it was a bit dicey on the other end. If i did not have the hand brake, i could not have got stopped. Wilwood sent the composite metalic pads, they scorched the rotors and the pads were done after 7 runs, although they replaced the rotors and pads, i am still nervous. I have the polymatrix E pads on the other car with no issues, but it has the 2 piece deal with the bolts.
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| DRR S/Pro |
As it has in the past, inspection and disassembly often reveals issues with parts that would have failed at the track and could have gotten ugly. Brakes were working fine but due to the issue with warping at the bolt flanges on the rotor to hat I decided to replace it all. Rear gears would have broken and probably within a very low number of runs. Everything else was/is in good shape back there. Parts coming to fix the rear. Pro gears this time along with the necessary parts to make that upgrade happen. The brakes have been an ongoing issue and switching to Wilwood rotors 2 years ago was just to see if they lasted any better than Strange rotors. They were not a lot better really. Brakes work by using friction and friction produces heat. Road cars use cast iron rotors and they are big and heavy. Drag car brakes are lightweight and rotors are steel and sometimes with aluminum hats. The brakes we use are high wear/ replacement items. | |||
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DRR Elite |
Apparently I found the Strange magic setup. 2 piece SS rotors with crescents, but not through cut. Used the strange Cold not Gold pads. No stop sign and never wore out after years of racing. 7/8” master cylinder 2005 2000lb 4 link dragster home brew 582 BBC Dart 355 1.058 2.98 4.629@149 6.094 7.310@185 | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Anybody have some feedback after a season or more of this floating Wilwood? If I can just change hats and rotors and cure the cupping problem, it would save me a lot of money long term. Plus I wouldn't have to change calipers in that case. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
I did not really make a lot of runs this past year but.... It took more runs than I expected for the M-W brakes with Ferodo pads to stop acceptably... Apparently they don't bed in very easily but once they did they stop fine. Rotors look fine and there is no obvious issues. Biggest plus without a doubt there is ZERO drag on these brakes compared to anything I had previously.....The car rolls much easier... My previous Wilwood rotors looked better than Strange but just warped in a different way not as easy to see until you went to remove the rotors.... The 2 piece slip fit design should be better....but I got tired of experimenting and spent the $$ for M-W..... | |||
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| DRR Elite |
I'm hoping the Willwood floaters with a c clip fit my housing/caliper, as it will save me some. I have often thought that the warp/cup problem was due to the rigid mount on the hat. This design should solve that. About $500 to switch over. Heck if it saves me throwing away rotors and hats every year it is well worth it. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Friend of mine had that experience with those pads. Those went in the garbage before another run. LOL. Anyone with some time/runs on the new Willwood rotor design? Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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DRR Pro |
me also with the soft metallic pad honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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| DRR Elite |
What is the part number for the mw kit that you guys are using? Fit under most 15" rims? Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
I called M-W and told them what I had for axle housing ends and ordered them that way, thru a Tech I have dual calipers so the mounting bracket had to be made to fit.... Olds ends I believe they are Don't know any part numbers I did e-mail back and forth with them a few times and everything I received was a perfect fit.... I have 16" diameter rims.... | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
 The best thing about willwoods floating rotor, it will stop the rotor from breaking the hat. The constant expansion and contraction on the hat bolts will eventually crack the hat. Probably a hundred runs on the new system with the floating stainless rotors and no issues. | |||
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| DRR Elite |
I think there is about $400 difference between going new wilwood design and keeping calipers and going new Mark williams About 700 for new pads and rotors/hats About 1100 or so for swapping to MWThis message has been edited. Last edited by: Bucky, Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
I've had 1 set of mark williams brake rotors since 2004, 180+ mph super comp car for a few years then a 190+ mph super pro car for the last 10 years. Gotta be 2000+ runs by now. We've tried strange and wildwood in the past and they ALWAYS warp. If you decide to go Mark Williams, im a dealer and can drop ship to anywhere, any time at as good of or better price then anyone. .991 60' 4.36 @ 159 so far..... 6.86 @ 198 trying for more...... 533" single carb 235" Harrison 4-link | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
There are 2 different size rotors from mark williams. Both will fit inside a normal 15" wheel, the smaller one fits inside a 15" beadlock. .991 60' 4.36 @ 159 so far..... 6.86 @ 198 trying for more...... 533" single carb 235" Harrison 4-link | |||
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DRR Pro |
Last time I changed my pads I had the same issue...184 mph on the top end and hit the pedal. Not much happened....track started getting short in a hurry....got REAL hard on the brakes as by now it was too short to toss out the laundry (my mistake, won't make it again), finally started to feel some grab and was able to slow and get off the track...got back to the pits and pads were smoking!!! Checked it all out, didn't see anything other than paint burning off...next pass they grabbed like crazy...still working great now.....that was almost four years ago..... Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Ok I have yet to change the rotors and pads. But in doing some looking, I saw that I had a 1" master cylinder in my car. My pedal ratio wasn't overly aggressive either. I have always said that too a point, the ratios probably make little difference since you just use more leg to get the overall pressure you need to stop. Well, I threw a new 3/4" master in there. I have to say the first thing I noticed is that the pedal feel sucked. More travel is needed of course to take up the draw back of the pads. So I kind of expected this, but it gave me a really bad feeling. Bad enough that I pulled the chute the first run because of the lack of confidence I had. Well, it turns out the brakes do actually work better without a doubt. I even stopped well short of the turnoff one pass due to a deer being down at the run off area. No problem. If the new Willwood hat design will fix the longevity issues due to warping, I will be fine staying with that brand and just getting the new rotor/hat combination. This was with some other issues I was fighting, but the best trap speed of the day was 189. Foxtrot Juliet Bravo | |||
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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Dragster brake rotors for the umpteenth time !
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