So as not to derail another thread. I want to update lifter in my motor and looking for views on what others have tried or are using. While not a apples to apples comparison since mine is Hemi and not bbc. Most quality pieces will be quality piece not matter which engine they are for.

I have connection on some Morels at good priec but they are used out of alky car.If you want to check quality of lifter throw them in blown hemi turning 10k plus on shifts and 7k on starting line and for good measure add 50 lbs boost.

Since motor will be bracket raced mostly I figure what is great in bbc will be equal in Hemi quality wise,cost another story.About any thing will be better than the 1996 comp cams stuff I have in it right now.Not run that long just had them that long.

If you want Jesel send me your info via pm

Makes sense to take a used set out of a high winding motor and put in your motor. If they lived through the other motor then they should last forever right?

A couple of things to consider..

Remember your block has no provision for pressurized oiling to the lifters. Look at anyone's lifters and they all say not to restrict oil.
I spoke with Crower tech about my lifter issues and he told me not to use a bushed lifter as more oil can get into a roller bearing easier.
Since the lifters you are getting are from an alky car they are likely a good lifter but, I would want to check them out very well or send them in for rebuild. I'd be looking at them having fractures in the axles or rollers.
If you look at Crowers catalog under lifters they sell three different versions. Depending on spring seat and over the nose pressure.

I finally weaned myself off of Comp Cams lifters as I have had the last 4 sets break or tie bars come apart. Lesson learned.

Just some info to rattle around in your head.

Dave

Main reason for my concern is past experiance with comp cams lifter. We broke numerous set with the alky cars. Back then there where not a ton of choices and less choices on design. While we never killed motor because of broken lifter we sure dinged up a bunch of pretty stuff and killed few cams.

Good point on the oiling being totally different. Going to do some checking on cost of rebuild for morels before proceeding there.Knowing how abusive alky cars are to valve train has me concerned some too.Kind of like concerns over rods that have only ten runs on them.There is reason we change them every 15 runs. New set of MGP rods with the 1/2"(forget number) bolts are also on my Christmas wish list.LOL

ISKY EZROLLMAX or ISKY EZROLLHELIX, best ones i've found yet. Don't run Crower bushing lifters bad luck with them. Crower severe duty needle lifters are good stuff with the pin oiling option.

Hemi doesn't have oil to the lifters? What the heck?

quote:

Originally posted by Triple Nickel:
ISKY EZROLLMAX or ISKY EZROLLHELIX, best ones i've found yet. Don't run Crower bushing lifters bad luck with them. Crower severe duty needle lifters are good stuff with the pin oiling option.

Hemi doesn't have oil to the lifters? What the heck?

Factory hemi's have lifter oiling.

Chris and I are running KB solid blocks. They were never drilled for lifter oiling.
I also have a Indy Maxx aluminum block and when they asked me if I was running Hydraulic lifters and I told them no, they did not drill for lifter oiling in that block either.
Now I need to check if I can get it drilled.

Dave

I like the Morel's. However, nothing lasts forever. Mine finally need rebuilt as there has been a little spread at the rollers and I have some rollers that have just a hint of roughness. I was a little surprised that is is nearly $600 to rebuild a set.

David,

Have you looked at running a oiling system inside the lifter valley? Lot of work,but hell if we wanted easy we would run BBC. You would have to build something similar to the rocker oiling system and have it tapped into each lifter. Where to get supply pressure would be biggest issue. Just a thought.

Bucky answered one of my question. At 600 for rebuild and cost of used I would be very close to new cost for Morels and probably too close to not just bite the bullet.Man my teeth are getting worn out.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
David,

Have you looked at running a oiling system inside the lifter valley? Lot of work,but hell if we wanted easy we would run BBC. You would have to build something similar to the rocker oiling system and have it tapped into each lifter. Where to get supply pressure would be biggest issue. Just a thought.

Yes. I have run that thought through my mind. Can you imagine the mess under the intake though..LOL
I was headed that direction until talking with crower. They sem to think if a TAD/TF engine doesn't require it then I shouldn't, no mention of changing lifters out after x number of runs on them.
Getting oil would be easy. Just drill and tap through the china wall at the back of the block and tap into an oil galley or tap into the oil passage that sends oil to the rockers.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
I like the Morel's. However, nothing lasts forever. Mine finally need rebuilt as there has been a little spread at the rollers and I have some rollers that have just a hint of roughness. I was a little surprised that is is nearly $600 to rebuild a set.

I just add another few hundred bucks and buy a new set..lol

Dave

Might want to recheck that price.To my understanding they run about 1100 per set,might be wrong.Will know shortly. Like I said in OP one of my biggest concerns about this engine.Hard to decide on lifters or rods.Lifters have more runs and more suspect,but rods destroy more. Best deal would be both new.

My humble opinion. I know there are guys out there that run aluminum rods bracket racing. I will never do it again. If I were you and I was going to buy new rods they would be steel and I would just break down and buy the new lifters also. Good luck!

Never had problem with aluminum rods.Plus they do not destroy cranks or blocks like steel rods.With cost of these cranks I will just replace rods little more frequent. Heck use to be 15 run swap out.Blocks can be repaired if not destroyed and less chance with aluminum. At 300 to 400 runs in bracket motor ,I have no problem. Plus never had a rod break.I did have some bolts break as is case most of the time and half a set of new wrist pins once.