any ideas on how to repair door sag on an 80 Camaro glass doors using stock hinges?

What about a cable with a turnbuckle arrangement inside the door that runs from the upper corner front to the lower corner rear that when you tighten it pulls it up?

Curtis

Door sag on stock hinges and stock door is caused by worn out hinges. Replace the hinges, realign the door and your good for another 38 years

Hinges replace or this....

https://www.rickscamaros.com/c...ll%20Products%20%232

they are fiberglass doors and the bushings and pins are new

Cable and turnbuckle like Curtis said. Actually I used a ratchet strap instead of a cable. Run it inside the door from the upper hinge mounting point to the opposite lower corner. Tighten it until the door is right.

quote:

Originally posted by racetaz:
they are fiberglass doors and the bushings and pins are new

Sorry if I offended you did not know that stuff was new. Woody has the right fix...

not offended at all thanks everyone for the tips

one other question does anyone have a photo of this fix ?

I did a cable inside my glass doors.

Are you talking about the welded hinges in the jam welded to the body?

thanks for the pictures that's what im after

go look at Tim McAmis web site he has a great vid on setting up Fiberglas and Carbonfiber doors.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by racetaz:
any ideas on how to repair door sag on an 80 Camaro glass doors using stock hinges?[/QUOTE

New hinges? GM tool. Rollers at both ends for hinge adjustment. Can use a socket too I’ve done that. Basically springing lower hinge up raises door. Look for a good body man, he knows...

Ive installed literally dozens of fiberglass and carbon fiber doors at work. I have never once needed to install a cable to fig door sag.

first, strong hinges. We make ours from scratch out of chromoly tubing and plate, also always make sure they are adjustable on the body.

second is to have a .080" aluminum plate on the inside of the hinge side, the same size as the inside of the door, again, cover as much area top to bottom as you can and have a 3/4" 90 degree flange on the straight side.

Once the door is hung with the door aligned, it will drop some due to taking up the slack in the door hinge pins and some flex from the door supporting it's own weight.

The fix now is to take the upper hinge where it attaches to the body, loosen the bolts and slide it forward approx 1/16". 90% of the time this beings the door alignment back to where it should be.

I don't stop adjusting till the door will shut like a factory steel door. If you have to lift the door to shut, your not done adjusting.

No cables needed.

Also watch how much of the inside of the door you trim out. The more you cut out, the weaker you make the door structure. I used to cut out the whole middle (but would have a dzus in aluminum or carbon fiver door panel), but now I cut access holes for the hinge and latches most of the time depending on the door construction.

Door sag isn't an issue we struggle with, rather the real issue with most of these doors is they are racked. Many manufactures seem to be clueless how to glue the two halves together and not rack the door. When it's racked, it makes it VERY difficult to align to the quarter panel, rocker panel, a-pillar and fender.

I second the plate on the inside. Then you may need a shim or two where the lower hinge attaches to accommodate for the weight of the door.

Ya know, dragsters don't have doors....Jus sayin'......


Sorry, couldn't resist!!!!!

First thing you should not do is cut the whole inside of the door out, hand holes only. you need to build a structure or frame in side door. we use 3/8 chrome moly. attach hinge to door latch, latch to bottom hinge the tie hinges together and put a jack bolt in the center of all this. Don't use the door for structure its cosmetic. Basically your going to build a swing gate inside the door..